[Amc-list] Disc Brake conversion troubles - 71 AMX
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[Amc-list] Disc Brake conversion troubles - 71 AMX
- From: moparmaniac440@xxxxxxx
- Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 16:14:13 -0400
Help!? Well, I bought a 'complete disc brake conversion' off of e-bay and apparently it is from a 77 Gremlin.? One of the many problems is the steering knuckle clearance.? Does anyone have a steering knucle for a 77 Gremlin.? That should clear up the disc brake conversion problems, but I also need a power brake adapter where the booster mounts to the firewall and a longer rod for the vacuum booster.? If anyone has one or a knows of where I can get these parts, it would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!!
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Today's Topics:
1. [Fwd: Rambler thermostats] (Tom Jennings)
2. Re: 199 rods in a 4.0l was Re: Rambler six comma fast
(Sandwich Maker)
3. Re: intake question (Matt Haas)
4. Re: 199 rods in a 4.0l was Re: Rambler six comma fast
(Tom Jennings)
5. overheating, and Smokey Yunick (Tom Jennings)
6. Re: overheating, and Smokey Yunick (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
7. Re: overheating, and Smokey Yunick (Tom Jennings)
8. Re: intake question (Steve) (Zee Man)
9. Re: overheating, and Smokey Yunick (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
10. Re: intake question (Armand Eshleman)
11. Re: overheating, and Smokey Yunick (Sandwich Maker)
12. Greenmead AMC Regional Show, and O'Yeah Woodward Dream Cruise
(Richard Estermyer)
13. Hub Cap Question II (Richard Estermyer)
14. Re: Hub Cap Question II (Joe Fulton)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 14:26:55 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] [Fwd: Rambler thermostats]
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <48A3519F.7030501@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
I emailed with this guy a bit about these. The early six takes a funny
thermostat, different from the modern ones. Need one? Contact Mike or
await eBay.
Note that he says it's the same as a Ford Y-block thermo.
He attached a picture, they're new in the box and spotless (at least
that one was :-)
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Rambler thermos
tats
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 21:37:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike W. <yblock46@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: Mike W. <yblock46@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: tomj@xxxxxxx
I have a group of 22 Delco Harrison thermostats. One application is the
'57-65 rambler. I was researching the rambler engines and came upon
your site. These are a high quality deep brass body 180 deg. stat. If
interested contact me and I will send a couple pictures. They will be
listed on ebay for sale individually at 11.95. Sold independent of ebay
they would be 10.95. FYI.
Mike Weaver
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 18:04:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 199 rods in a 4.0l was Re: Rambler six comma
fast
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200808132204.m7DM4eK08411@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
"
" Sandwich Maker wrote:
"
" > their pins are much smaller than the 199's, 0.860" vs. 0.930", but the
" > 327 and even the '55 252 six - though oddly not earlier 252s/234s/etc
" > - are the same size.
"
" > 6.825" is only 0.700" longer than the 199 / '70s 232 / 4.0 6.125" rod.
" > you could just barely handle it on a 199 crank in a '71-up tall deck
" > block; by my calc a 1.15" pin height, and that's just about the
" > minimum i've seen on any aftermkt american slugs. i'm not so sure
" > you could make it work in a '64-'70 block.
" >
" > if the 327 rods had a usable big end, you could just about drop them
" > in and run stock slugs on them, with a 199 crank in a 4.0 block.
"
" I'm at work and don't have any printed data; but 195.6 L-head pistons
" (flat topped...) have 1.75" pin height, clearly live happily on the ends
" of those long rods, and the big end attaches to a 199 crank... too bad
" it's only 3.125" across. So close, yet so far away...
i think they'd be about 0.600" out the deck of a [heavily sleeved] 4.0
block at tdc!
you'd need custom slugs with a 0.90" pin height [if that's possible]
in order to run 196 rods in the navar
ro block. it might actually be
advantageous to have them made for the smaller 196 wristpins.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:31:33 -0400
From: Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] intake question
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <48A36ED5.9030903@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Steve,
Blocking off the exhaust crossover passage will cause cold driveability
problems. I also don't understand how this will solve an overheating
problem. There are lots of other places more likely to cause overheating
than the exhaust crossover passage.
Matt
On 8/12/2008 10:41 PM, Steve spouted this sage advice:
> Hello Fellow AMC-ers:
>
> Due to overheating issues (to eliminate the overheating problem, I've
decided that this is the best course of action and have considered other courses
of action) I want to R and R the original intake manifold off of a '68 390 AMX,
block off the exhaust crossover passages, and install an electric choke on the
original Carter AFB. Any suggestions on the "R and R and block off" parts of
the procedure? I've used a Permatex product to seal off the thermostat housing
(with gasket, of course) and was wondering if I ought to use a similar product
for the intake gasket.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
> '68 AMX
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> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
>
>
--
mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinna
ti, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
=================================================================
According to a February 2003 survey of Internet holdouts released
by UCLA's Center for Communication Policy, people cite
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------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:37:41 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 199 rods in a 4.0l was Re: Rambler six comma
fast
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <48A37E55.4030409@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Sandwich Maker wrote:
> you'd need custom slugs with a 0.90" pin height [if that's possible]
> in order to run 196 rods in the navarro block. it might actually be
> advantageous to have them made for the smaller 196 wristpins.
I suppose I could ask some piston place about that, but it sounds a bit
edgy for me. I think we played this one out :-) It's worth persuing
those things though, as new details sometimes come out.
For me, I'm gonna build a stock 199 bottom end -- new or old pattern
block is still TBD -- and put the radical head on it. It's got massive
porting and polishing, big valves, custom cast turbo manifold
ready-to-go. Yeah 4.0 EFI is "better" but no way it'll look as cool as
this setup!
I'll have to buy 4.0 conn rods, the stock-est good pistons I can find.
I have adjustable pushrods and solid lifters for the 199/232, so I can
run some funny cam, but dunno if I'd want to do that.
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:48:01 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] overheating, and Smokey Yunick
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <48A380C1.8040805@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Speaking of overheating...
What with Bruce Hevner mentioning Yunick some time back I fo
und a copy
of POWER SECRETS cheap on abebooks.com. (I realized later I'd read it
long ago, but lost it.)
OK, it's 100% Brand C, but man, it's worth reading. Every single thing
the guy talked about (early 1980's) as 'new' or 'coming trends' has
happened. Coil-per-plug, electronic FI, metallurgy, etc, you name it.
Funny too as a lot of what he recommends for making effective HP is ...
boring, unexciting, and it looks like, rarely followed. He's one of
those umm jerks who never believes what he's told, and tests tests
tests. Probably pissed off a lot of friends. Stuff like when big cams,
big valves, big lift all a waste of time (and when they're not). Spend
money on exhaust systems (boring, unflashy). That sort of thing.
If you look at his projects you can see he deeply gets one really
critical thing: heat as energy. He says an ordinary radiator, 18 x 20
inches, is plenty, and mostly what he talks about building is 500 -
700hp. The hint is, that heat should be going into the flywheel, not the
water our out the tailpipe. Hot exhaust and hot heads means bad
combustion, and that's true even in little street sixes.
Overheating, unless something's broken or plugged up, is an engine
geometry or tuning problem, period.
If I had access to a dyno to build motors with, the instrument I'd use
for tuning is an exhaust pyrometer. Max HP + lowest exhaust temp, there
you go, as a rule of thumb you can't get better.
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 01:07:48 +0000
From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] overheating, and Smokey Yunick
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<081420080107.26731.48A385640002B4F70000686B2216549976CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Hmm,
pyrometers are as close as the nearest diesel guys hotrod shop.
Dash computer by any number of different companies will give you a fair read on
power levels too.
It's all too much for my head...
I just want to have time when someone is not dragg
ing me here or there to do
something.
I haven't even started the American in a month again.
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Speaking of overheating...
>
> What with Bruce Hevner mentioning Yunick some time back I found a copy
> of POWER SECRETS cheap on abebooks.com. (I realized later I'd read it
> long ago, but lost it.)
>
> OK, it's 100% Brand C, but man, it's worth reading. Every single thing
> the guy talked about (early 1980's) as 'new' or 'coming trends' has
> happened. Coil-per-plug, electronic FI, metallurgy, etc, you name it.
>
> Funny too as a lot of what he recommends for making effective HP is ...
> boring, unexciting, and it looks like, rarely followed. He's one of
> those umm jerks who never believes what he's told, and tests tests
> tests. Probably pissed off a lot of friends. Stuff like when big cams,
> big valves, big lift all a waste of time (and when they're not). Spend
> money on exhaust systems (boring, unflashy). That sort of thing.
>
> If you look at his projects you can see he deeply gets one really
> critical thing: heat as energy. He says an ordinary radiator, 18 x 20
> inches, is plenty, and mostly what he talks about building is 500 -
> 700hp. The hint is, that heat should be going into the flywheel, not the
> water our out the tailpipe. Hot exhaust and hot heads means bad
> combustion, and that's true even in little street sixes.
>
> Overheating, unless something's broken or plugged up, is an engine
> geometry or tuning problem, period.
>
> If I had access to a dyno to build motors with, the instrument I'd use
> for tuning is an exhaust pyrometer. Max HP + lowest exhaust temp, there
> you go, as a rule of thumb you can't get better.
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 18:07:28 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] overheating, and Smokey Yunick
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <48A38550.4020100@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Hmm,
> pyrometers are as close as the nearest diesel guys hotrod shop.
> Dash computer by any number of different companies will give you a fair read
on power levels too.
Oh I was thinking more along the lines of largeish stuff that I'll
probably never do, like cam and carb/EFI changes in some controlled
setting. Though I bet at highway speeds at load tweaking ignition timing
while looking at the pyro would probably reveal something, but probably
a waste of time for me.
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 20:22:01 -0500
From: Zee Man <z_man401@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] intake question (Steve)
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <BAY101-W514790070ED5F5D79549F4BD720@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
" Edelbrock recommends using a thick bead of silicone instead of the rubber
pieces."
What you need to make sure is pay close attention to that gap. I have a
performer on my Cherokee that had the engine rebuilt at one time before i got it
and that gap began too much for using just sealant. With the gaskets ends it
fits very nice. This is the best seal i have ever gotten in about 25 intake
manifold changes. My ends haven't popped out yet. I even sealed the ends with
RTV that FELPRO supplied.. I probably just jinxed my self...
I am also a firm believer in less in more. the recommended Felpro bead around
the water ports works well.. too much and you end up with sealant floating
around your radiator. and even a bigger mess to clean next intake change. I
also prefer the Hi
gh Tack sealant around the Air ports. I did use a mix this
last time since i ran out of the High Tack(which was old and stringy already) i
finished it off with the Edebrock's Gaskasinch and I assumed it was going to be
leaky or problems.. but i got a nice seal.
Rob Z
77 Gremlin 401
78 Cherokee Chief 401
04 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 01:24:20 +0000
From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] overheating, and Smokey Yunick
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<081420080124.17893.48A3894400097848000045E52216549976CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Thinking about it.
Is there not a finite amount o ftime per revolution that the "heat" is useful?
Once that piston has descended past a certain point the push is gone.
I guess that's where the diesel shine as it wants to keep building heat to
light of the next charge.
Or is it the squeeze that ignites it?
Oh, well, at least I'm thinking about something other than my stupid
shoulder...oops..too late.
Rats.
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > Hmm,
> > pyrometers are as close as the nearest diesel guys hotrod shop.
> > Dash computer by any number of different companies will give you a fair read
> on power levels too.
>
> Oh I was thinking more along the lines of largeish stuff that I'll
> prob
ably never do, like cam and carb/EFI changes in some controlled
> setting. Though I bet at highway speeds at load tweaking ignition timing
> while looking at the pyro would probably reveal something, but probably
> a waste of time for me.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 20:25:21 -0500
From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] intake question
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <003d01c8fdac$9ee6fec0$6701a8c0@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I agree with Matt about the exhaust crossover not changing the outcome on
anything but the cold engine drive-ability. Either this engine has thin
cylinder walls, poor coolant circulation (pump screwed up, head gaskets or
intake to cooling passages in head messed up), a bad thermostat or
radiator, or like Smokey says poor tuning.
Have any of you guys ever heard of Hylomar? It's a sealing product made by
Rolls Royce and initially used for aircraft engines. It is not oil soluble.
We used it for sealing up the transaxle cases in the Formula Ford race cars.
I don't remember using it on the intake manifold, but then again there's no
coolant in a four cylinder intake manifold. Anyway it stays very pliable and
it makes it easy to disassemble things, unlike silicones, which take a
prybar to get the things apart. but I do remember using red colored silicone
around the water pump. Sheesh it's been a long time since I have done any
engine work. Gotta get going on that 360 or a 401 for the Javelin.
Armand
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] intake question
> Steve,
>
> Blocking off the exhaust crossover passage will caus
e cold driveability
> problems. I also don't understand how this will solve an overheating
> problem. There are lots of other places more likely to cause overheating
> than the exhaust crossover passage.
>
> Matt
>
> On 8/12/2008 10:41 PM, Steve spouted this sage advice:
> > Hello Fellow AMC-ers:
> >
> > Due to overheating issues (to eliminate the overheating problem, I've
decided that this is the best course of action and have considered other
courses of action) I want to R and R the original intake manifold off of a
'68 390 AMX, block off the exhaust crossover passages, and install an
electric choke on the original Carter AFB. Any suggestions on the "R and R
and block off" parts of the procedure? I've used a Permatex product to seal
off the thermostat housing (with gasket, of course) and was wondering if I
ought to use a similar product for the intake gasket.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Steve
> > '68 AMX
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> > URL:
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> > _______________________________________________
> > Amc-list mailing list
> > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> mhaas@xxxxxxx
> Cincinnati, OH
> http://www.mattsoldcars.com
> 1967 Rambler American wagon
> 1968 Rambler American sedan
> =================================================================
> According to a February 2003 survey of Internet holdouts released
> by UCLA's Center for Communication Policy, people cite
> not having a computer as the No. 1 reason they won't go online.
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.1/1607 - Release Date: 8/12/08
7:19 AM
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Wed
, 13 Aug 2008 22:14:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] overheating, and Smokey Yunick
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200808140214.m7E2E2P18167@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
"
" Thinking about it.
" Is there not a finite amount of time per revolution that the "heat" is useful?
" Once that piston has descended past a certain point the push is gone.
i'd guess about the point the exhaust valve begins to have meaningful
opening... there's still plenty of heat and pressure in the exhaust,
or turbos wouldn't work.
" I guess that's where the diesel shine as it wants to keep building
" heat to light of the next charge.
" Or is it the squeeze that ignites it?
the squeeze. pV=nRT... compression adiabatically heats the air
enough to ignite the fuel when it's injected.
small diesels routinely run higher-than-efficient compressions to
generate enough heat for reliable starting when cold. the ricardo
comet 5 precombustion geometry gets best efficiency at 17:1 +/-, but
even something as big as the gm 6.5 ran a cr over 20:1.
why is high cr less efficient? surface-to-volume of the precombustion
chamber [in indirect-injection diesels, unfashionable now] kills heat
retention and increases cooling load.
a big diesel - locomotive size - can run a cr of 12:1 or below [iirc
the also 251 is astoundingly 10.5:1], especially as they are rarely
shut off; an idle diesel earns no money.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 22:23:02 -0400
From: Richard Estermyer <javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] Greenmead AMC Regional Show, and O'Yeah Woodward
Dream Cruise
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W17457E564986A287AF3CEFDD7
20@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Just a reminder and/or notice, this Sunday, August 17th Great Lakes Classic AMC
Club (Home of the 2010 Nationals) 23rd Annual AMO Regional Show in Livonia, MI.
Information:
greatlakesclassic@xxxxxxxxxx
Bob Lucas - 313-600-5830
Kevin Nichols - 419-304-3589
Ron Rogers - 248-250-3876
8:30am - Vendor Set Up
9:00am - Show Field Opens
11:00am - Show Field Closes
12:00pm - Judging Begins
3:00pm - Award Presentation
Admission $3.00 - Under 12 - FREE!
Entry Fee - $20 non-member
Display Only - $12.00 -- Nash and Hudson Cars $7.00
Vendors - $22.00
Vehicles For Sale - $17.00
(includes late fee of $2.00 applied after August 1st.
Last year in the rain there were STILL 26 cars. The year before there were 80
cars and 20 vendors. This show is getting better every year! It is a fine
finish to the Detroit Area Woodward Dream Cruise in it's 20 something year.
Basically a million people come out to see almost that many cars cruise a 14
mile stretch from Pontiac to Detroit which was the cruisin strip of the past.
Dream Cruise is officially Saturday, although it "starts this week and grows
each night until the official day. Definately an automotive experience with an
fantastic AMC finish.
I'll be there w/Gremlin parts and t-shirts. Hope to see you there too. Well
worth the trip!!!
Blessings,Richard Estermyer javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
_________________________________________________________________
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 22:25:38 -0400
From: Richard Estermyer <javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Amc-list] Hub Cap Question II
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <BAY144-W44E8CE9C79FF64E6
092E8ADD720@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Sent this on the 8th but did not see anything about it replied to. Did I miss
something, or noone sure about these?
Hey Group,We were workin on the Gremlin and Spirit patch today pulling parts and
cleaned out a couple cars of hub caps. We have one set that it a turbine
w/volcano caps in the center (e-mail for pic). These look like the ones that
were on my 75 Matador. However the Mats, were the rubber ones that were
directly attached to the stock steel wheels. Does anyone know how these hub
caps are to attach to the wheels. It looks like it would need washers as the
holes of the cap are slightly larger than the bolts and do not fit snugly, and
then you have the plastic is not that thick. Any thoughts?Blessings,Richard
Richard Estermyer PhotoGraphics 6235 S. Mohawk Avenue Ypsilanti, MI 48197
734.483.5138 734.417.9456 cell javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:30:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Fulton <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Hub Cap Question II
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <751910.32761.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
The 77 AMX I parted out last year had those turbine
style caps. The plastic turbine pieces were fastened
to the wheel with the large flat washer area built in
to the lug nut as I recall. I don't think I saved any
of the lug nuts though because they had been abused
and were rusty.
BTW the wheels are special. They are 14 inch steel
wheels with
holes for the center (volcano style) caps
but they have no nubbies for regular dog dish hub
caps. I think they are 14 x 7 wheels too, but they
all have tires on them now and I can't easily measure
them without taking them to a tire shop.
Joe Fulton
--- Richard Estermyer <javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
>
> Sent this on the 8th but did not see anything about
> it replied to. Did I miss something, or noone sure
> about these?
>
> Hey Group,We were workin on the Gremlin and Spirit
> patch today pulling parts and cleaned out a couple
> cars of hub caps. We have one set that it a turbine
> w/volcano caps in the center (e-mail for pic).
> These look like the ones that were on my 75 Matador.
> However the Mats, were the rubber ones that were
> directly attached to the stock steel wheels. Does
> anyone know how these hub caps are to attach to the
> wheels. It looks like it would need washers as the
> holes of the cap are slightly larger than the bolts
> and do not fit snugly, and then you have the plastic
> is not that thick. Any thoughts?Blessings,Richard
> Richard Estermyer PhotoGraphics 6235 S. Mohawk
> Avenue Ypsilanti, MI 48197 734.483.5138 734.417.9456
> cell
> javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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