Re: [Amc-list] A/C on a 64 Classic

[Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

Thomas Garner wrote:
> Did the 64 Classic with 232 engine have A/C as an option? Does A/C rob it of much power if I put it on mine?

Unless you're doing a restoration, I most strenuously suggest a good 
aftermarket system like Vintage Air.

Believe me, I've done it both ways (or tried to). If it's a restoration 
OK, but 40+ years of development has gone into the new stuf, and believe 
me, you want that! It's like 6V generator vs. 12V alternator!

THe bottom line on compressors is this: the oldYork style "lawmower 
engine" compressors are inefficient, large, heavy. The reason the got a 
bad rep (deserved) is that they are MOST efficient at low speeds -- eg. 
when idling and in-town. At higher speeds, like highway cruise, they are 
less efficient. They are one or two-piston designs that are inefficient 
and consume lots of energy. They are all now very old and all need to be 
rebuilt, period.

The new Sanden type are small, light, 7-piston designs, that are more 
efficient at higher speeds. They consume lots less power over all. 
There's a mount kit that adapts them to York mounting plates.

The old plumbing used flare fittings and even some clamp-type 
compression fittings. These are hard to make not leak (with good care 
they do work first time, but... not so good when they are old! hint hint)

The new fittings are all O-ring. They basically never leak. All the new 
stuff comes with O-rings.

There are old-timey-looking under-dash units. I have one in my 63 
Classic. It fits fine. Wouldn't work with floor shift, probably. Check that.

h134a cools as well as r12 if you have a big condenser (in front of the 
radiator). Factory condensers are often "as small as we can get away 
with" for cost. Aftermarket ones are larger and not dented and fins all 
good and connections are not corroded and all O-ring.

There's nothing magical about R12. There are some issues back-converting 
old ssytems to h134a, but that's due to old seals and inefficient 
condensers.


There is essentially a "calibration" in the evaporator unit (inside the 
car) that is R12 or h134a specific. They're close enough to be "close 
enough" if you have a good clean system and conver R12 to 134. THIS! is 
where people complain that the new stuff isn't as good as the old -- in 
marginal old systems designed for R12.


Last, alas, it's simply not cheap. I tried to use a factory under-dash 
system, it was a major PITA, and then in the end the expansion valve was 
bad, and would have cost too much to re-cal for h134, I bit the bullet 
and spent the $250 (in 2004?) for the under dash unit. Compressor was 
around $250, condenser $100? $150? dryer, hoses, blah blah.


Another thing you can do that factory doesn't is use enough hose so that 
you can un-do a component (evap, compressor) and move it out of the way 
to work! Hose is cheap enough that an extra 5 feet in the system is $20. 
BFD.



Oops, one more thing; the hoses MUST be crimped with a $450 tool. 
However, the thing to do is, buy all the hose and crimped ends, mock up 
the whole thing, etc. THEN fit the hoses, push on the fittings, and 
rotate the hose so there's no kinks. Once you crimp the ends you can't 
twist them. Mark them with a paint marker, take the hoses off, and bring 
then to a hose shop and simply have them crimp them. The paint marks 
will be there for alignment.
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