Re: [Amc-list] It's scrubbing, sanding, (and the trunk has flow-through ventilation)

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

You can actually bond almost anything you want to if you do the research and get the right adhesives.
There are many, Some of them have set points hours past disspensing to allow you time to postion and clamp in place. If bonding is seriously what is going to be done, research is a must!
   Welding trunk and floors is with out a doubt the best place to start!  Don't forget to pull the fuel tank. Our rule at school was anything behind the front edge of the rear seat required the tank be dropped.
   Welding skills, check the nearest Vo-Tech school, most do evening adult classes. Depends on the school what the cost is. It's great to learn on someone elses stff too!
    For a small mig, you can get by on a el cheapo for as little as $200, sometimes less. Depends on how skillfull you are in learning it's quirks. My first one was a Century I paid $199 for and I did my American with it. My second one is a better grade Craftsman built by Century. For it I paid $225 at a scratch and dent place! It was a $500 welder new. Unfortuneatly if it breaks I'm screwed since Century has gone belly up and sold out to a company that dropped all support for the old machines.
    anyway you look at it, if you take the time to learn the skills you can fix thecar yourself one area at a time.

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
> Rust is always worse than it looks. I don't think you can use panel 
> bonding adhesive to bond the trunk floor to the rear frame sills or to 
> any cross members. I may be wrong on that but you should make sure 
> before you use it since the floor pans are structural parts of the car. 
> You'll also need to roll beads into the patch panels (match the factory 
> pattern) so they stay stiff.
> 
> Floors and trunks are actually decent first time welding projects since 
> the sheet metal is fairly thick and easily to hide. You should be able 
> to get a decent 110 volt MIG welder for somewhere around $500 - $600 new 
> (you may be able to find good used welding equipment as well but be sure 
> to stay with better brands -- Lincoln, Hobart, Miller, Clarke, etc...). 
> MIG welding is pretty easy to pick up and chances are you could get good 
> enough to do floor and trunk pans after an afternoon of practice.
> 
> In any case, make sure you find and fix the source of the leak before 
> doing anything or you're just wasting time and money.
> 
> Matt
> 
> On 8/2/2008 5:07 PM, Bruce Griffis spouted this sage advice:
> > I was going to say just surface rust. Yep, that was my thought.
> > Surface rust under the left-rear taillight, a little surface rust here
> > and there. Nothing big.
> > 
> > I popped open the trunk to take off the taillight, and figured I'd
> > empty the trunk out and have a look-see. How could I have NOT done
> > this before? Like when buying the car in December?
> > 
> > The trunk has flow-through ventilation on the left side. Several small
> > holes, one area much bigger. I don't know how to weld, so am
> > considering cutting out a section and bonding a patch panel in with
> > adhesive. I think I'll toss that over in my mind once or twice, and
> > see where to get a patch panel for the trunk floor.
> > 
> > Anyway, it's time to rethink this. If the trunk has perforation, then
> > there might be some in the floorboards, too. When under the car, I
> > didn't see any rust through at all. It looked great! But it might be
> > working from the inside out.
> > 
> > There are some gaps in the gasket for the front and rear windows, and
> > I noticed water getting in when I washed it. I keep it garaged, and
> > the previous owner kept it in a carport. But I noticed that in the
> > carport rain leaked through a section in the carport, went down the
> > rear of the roof of the car, travelled down the back glass (there was
> > a clear streak in all the dust, showing the path), then travelled
> > along the trunk line down to the left rear taillight. It also must
> > have pooled in the left rear portion of the trunk - that's where it's
> > rusted.
> > 
> > Anyway - I need to decide what to tackle first. The surface rust on
> > the outside of the car - or the snazzy ventilated trunk. We leave on
> > vacation next Thursday, so I need to move all the parts I took off for
> > the head, and get the car back in the garage. It can't sit out waiting
> > for the next rain.
> > 
> > On Sat, Aug 2, 2008 at 4:10 PM,  <Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >> Uh, I got to ask.
> >> How bad is this rust?
> >> Is it surface or perforations?
> >> Perforations will not stay patched with simple body filler.
> >> It is not water proof.
> >> If you have perforations you are going to want at the very minimum some 
> waterproof filler.
> >> Such as Duraglas or similar.
> >> The correct way is to remover the rusted area and weld in new metal. Barring 
> that being possible a thorough rust removal with sanding grinding then sealing 
> the holes with the Duraglas and back sealing the area with an undercoat will do 
> a satisfatory job and hold up for quite some time.
> >>   Start in an area with the least visibility and work up. That way your best 
> work will be in the visible areas.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Mark Price
> >> Morgantown, WV
> >> 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
> >> 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
> >> " Chronic Pain Hurts"
> >>
> >>  -------------- Original message ----------------------
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> 
> -- 
> mhaas@xxxxxxx
> Cincinnati, OH
> http://www.mattsoldcars.com
> 1967 Rambler American wagon
> 1968 Rambler American sedan
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