Re: [Amc-list] If you were me..

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Hadn't thought about it till now, but to regear the Concord for better pickup and probably even a mileage increase in town an Exploder rear would be about the perfect width...
  You can get gearing up to 4:11's in factory trim. 3:55's and 3:73 are also common.
Places with pull a part yards sell them for as little as $100! 
No one messes with the drum brake ones much so those can be found real easily.

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
> " From: "oldcars@xxxxxxxxx" <oldcars@xxxxxxxxx>
> " 
> " OK, I have had a fair amount of good luck in finding cars, but now it is
> " time to do someting with them
> " 
> " #1 - 81 Concord wagon, good body, 4 cyl 4 speed. Clutch went up some time
> " ago and the pedal went down and is stuck there. NOBODY seems to have the
> " clutch master cylinder, although the slave cylinder is the same as a Jeep.
> " Honestly the 4 cyl is a little weak for the car but it is manageable. The
> " engine runs quite well. Pretty sure it has a 3.73 rear. 
> 
> this motor is the pontiac 'iron puke'.  it has its problems but lack
> of speed equipment isn't one of them.  lots you can do just with
> later-year junkyard parts.  also fairly sure most were geared pretty
> tall for mileage, and that would partly explain why it felt 'weak'.
> 
> how hard would it be to hack mounting for the jeep clutch master?
> 
> " #2 - 75 Gremlin, drove it home from near Baltimore (over an hour on the
> " []
> " am afraid this one has rust that is beyond repair. Its drivetrain is a good
> " old 232 1-barrel with a 150-T trans. Not sure what the axle ratio is but I
> " believe it is either 3.31 or 3.73. 
> 
> more likely to be in the 2s, 2.73 or -maybe- 3.08.
> 
> " #3 - 64 American wagon. Hasn't been driven since about 1988. Flathead 6
> " with T96 3 speed, accelerator linkage is messed up. No clue on axle ratio.
> " 
> " So...looking at the first 2 cars, I have a great drivetrain in one and a
> " good body in the other. I guess I will need to move over the crossmember to
> " move the 232 and 3 speed into the Concord, and of course it would mean no
> " way to get it through smog tests so it would always have to be registered
> " as an antique. It looks like I would have to modify the shifter hole since
> " they don't match up perfectly. The Grem has a multi-pattern bell so I do
> " know it has holes for a T96 but doubt it would work for the SR4 and anyway
> " it is the 4-cyl version. I had bought a bell for the 6cyl SR4/T4/T5, but
> " not sure I would want to pay the cost of a T5, and I am not sure that the
> " internal clutch parts from the 150T would work with any other trans. 
> 
> t150 clutch parts will work perfectly with a mustang 5.0 t5; the t150
> is a ford 3sp toploader.  the pressure plate is amc-generic and afaik
> fits back to early-'60s 196s at least.  you could also swap the t150
> for a 4sp ford toploader.
> 
> the multipattern grem bell -should- have an sr4/t4/t5 pattern on it,
> along with t14/t96, t150, and possibly t18.
> 
> are you sure it's a t150?  i understood that while other amcs got it in
> '75, the last t14s were run out in gremlins as late as '76.  could the
> grem be later?
> 
> i wasn't aware there was any difference between 4 and 6 cyl amc sr4s.
> 
> you may only have to swap motor mounts into the concord, not the whole
> grem crossmember.
> 
> " So, should I merge the two? 
> " 
> " That would open up another possibility, since I am not too fond of the idea
> " of the flathead (although it ran well when parked). Since the American
> " wagon is much lighter than the Concord wagon, the Iron Duke should do
> " better there. The question would be whether I could get the 1964 clutch
> " internals to work in the bell from the 81 2.5, and also whether I could
> " modify the 2.5 liter clutch housing to work with the T96 - it looks like at
> " least a couple of the transmission housing front bolts would line up; not
> " sure whether the center hole for the input shaft would be the same. The T96
> " is already in place and working, and anyway I know where I can get a brand
> " new (open driveshaft) T96 with OD from a Studebaker parts vendor, so I have
> " a built-in upgrade path. 
> 
> i'd be pleasantly surprised if the 4-cyl bell counted a t14/t96 pattern
> amongst its assortment, but as it mounted the same trannies as the 6
> with multipattern bell it should be the right depth.
> 
> the center hole is -not- right; the t150/t177 takes 4.85", the sr4/t4/t5
> is 4.64", but the car t14/t96 is only 4.25".  [jeep t14s are 4.64"]
> you'd need to do something about the pilot bushing too; the sr4/t4/t5
> pilot is 0.590" but the t96 is 0.750".
> 
> could you run the 4-cyl -and- sr4 in the american?  i don't know where
> the shifter falls in the sr4, but in the t4/t5 the trick is to use a
> s10 extension case to move the shifter as far fwd as possible.
> 
> you might be able to use a complete s10 bell and t5, as they also had
> the 2.5 4-cyl.
> 
> " I saw a Car Craft article (URL is
> " http://www.carcraft.com/projectbuild/116_0703_rambler_american/photo_01.html
> " ) where they swapped a Gremlin cross member into a 67 American. So, I
> " figure that the 4-cyl crossmember would work in the 64 American. 
> 
> common wisdom is that '64-up american through concord/spirit
> crossmembers are interchangeable.  this might extend to tranny
> crossmembers also.
> 
> with the recent thread on de-4wd-ing an eagle, perhaps the possibility
> opens up for a 4wd american with factory parts...  and really -big-
> flares!
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
> internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought
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