Re: [Amc-list] 4.0 head on 1970 232...

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

87-90 are Renix heads. A 91-96 would be a bit better, but the Renix head is an improvement over the old 232 head -- especially the old one with the huge ports and 90 degree turn at the valve. The Renix head is based on the 2.5L four head. The HO head (91+) has the intake ports raised 1/8" higher than the Renix intake ports, slightly improving the intake path. The Renix ports are about 1/8" higher than the older 258 ports for the same reason. There's a 13 hp difference between Renix and HO in the HOs favor, but no more than half of that is from the head alone. You should still get a 5 hp or so gain from the Renix head, and it will burn more efficiently.

Sounds like you're planning on using the factory EFI also? The intake will easily clear in the Classic -- I'm using a Renix engine. It even clears with the factory power brake booster, at least the six cylinder drum booster. The V-8 might use a bigger diameter booster, don't recall and since you don't have on doesn't matter (or I'd look it up). 

You will have to use the Renix exhaust manifold, but can use a 1980+ intake. The 70 intake should even bolt up once you separate it from the exhaust, but you might have to knock/cut some of the junction flange off to clear. The center exhaust ports are different on the 4.0L, that's why you can't use the 232/258 exhaust manifold. 

The Renix exhausts manifolds are bad about cracking around the last three tubes, where the tubes connect to the main pipe. It's made from a type of stainless steel that's easily welded with your MIG welder and plain steel wire. I put a gusset between the back two pipes and main pipe, connecting the three together at that point, then run a piece of strap steel across the last three pipes about half way up the last pipe then straight across to the front (or short pieces between the pipes). Make sure you don't block access to the bolts with a socket extension though! You can also run a brace from the bell housing to the exhaust pipe or simply run a hanger right under the floor as the pipe straightens under the car. The engineers weren't thinking that the exhaust system movement and weight would put added stress on the tubular exhaust manifold -- never had that problem before (with the heavy cast iron ones -- DUH!!). 

Wiring isn't a big problem. Lift the harness and everything attached from the Jeep and drop it in the Rambler, then splice a few wires. Only 4-5 need splicing, I think it's 7 total if you want to wire the AC up also. Pretty easy! Just let me know if you need some help -- I did the same thing. 

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Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 18:51:58 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>

The years available are 1987, 1989, 1990. Are these "bad" years? Any 
best years? They all look intact and reasonably clean. Doesn't look like 
dead motor sent them to their death (most were crashed).

It will be a bone-stock 232 other than Duraspark distributor. It's a 63 
Classic chassis, but I don't have power brakes so the manifold should 
clear, right? It's drivers-side starter.

(Then the Howell kit may go on the 195.6, a more interesting project.)

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)


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