Re: [Amc-list] rust

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Yes indeed beware the HF welders.
My two migs have both been Century brand also lowbuck, but better then HF.
First one I bought for $189 at Big lots with the gas kit. I used it for several years and stumbled across a Craftsman by Century at a scratch and dent tool place. They wanted $260, I offered $225 and they took it!
  It has fully adjustable voltage, no clicks so it can be fine tuned. It is still not quite on par with the "big boys" but does a better job then the first one. It sold for $499 new at Sears at the time. It has now been discontinued, Century was bought out and parts disscontinued. It still works though, so I'm Ok, yeah it also came with the gas setup! Oh, and at work we had a contractor bringing the stair rails up to code welding in steel. They were using .035 wire and one of the guys bought an 10lb roll of .025 [iirc whatevr is close] by misstake. When the contractors left the building they left it behind! I got free 10lb spool of wire! It's the good brand name stuff too.
   
   as for the question of aluminum, mud and mesh, I'd not do it. Not with aluminum anyway.
For temp repairs on door corners you can use fiberglass cloth and duraglos or equivalent. Just mix the duraglas or fiberglas filler and spread it on both sides of the cloth and stick it on the prepped rusted areas. Wear gloves and use paint stirrers to pull the cloth out close to level. Takes a little practice, but you want to get the cloth slightly depressed into the rust hole. Let it dry, wear a dust respirater and grind down the repair to rough it up. Then apply more duraglas to level it off. You can finish it with easier to work plastic fillers once the arear is sealed good with the duraglas.
    These repairs if sealed on the backside will last for a very, very, very longtime. The tops of my front fenders on the American were done this way 10 years ago. they have not bubbled or rusted through in all this time.
      
     if you use aluminum and it contacts the steel it will react and corrode, very quickly.
Use steel mest if you must use metal.


--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Mike Kindle <mike90066@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> [Amc-list] rust
>  
> >>>My 61 American?Deluxe 2 door Sedan?has CANCER rust on the passenger door 
> only, both front
>  and rear bottom corners.? I was planning to cut it all out, and fill it in with 
> an aluminum 
> mesh covered in fiberglass, meanwhile, passively looking for a rust free door.? 
> Should I be 
> more agressive in looking for the passenger door, or should I just break down 
> and buy a 
> 110 wire welder from Harbor Freight?? >>>
>  
> If you get good at welding, there is nothing you cannot fix.  In my opinion:
> You will not get good at welding with the POS HF welder.  There is not enough 
> adjustability 
> and many you can't even hook up inert gas to.  I have a chronically cheap friend 
> who went this route.
> I got to play with the HF welder a bit and it was bad.  He then sold it.  Don't 
> waste your time.
> 
> I got a used Lincoln 110 wire welder for a hundred bucks off craigslist and now 
> I confidently 
> weld things with great success.  I suspect it will outlast me.  It is worth it 
> to get a good
>  welder you are going to want to use, rather than a cheap one you are going to 
> want to avoid using.
> It is okay to be frugal.  It is not okay to be cheap.
> 
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