Re: [Amc-list] Removing hub from drum - press, hammer or replace

["Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>]

It's in a machine shop. I didn't want to risk messing up the hub
(after searching Napa and Rockauto for a replacement). I figured I'd
better match both front drums - so am simply replacing it.

Okay - I'll 'fess up as to why it was pulling to one side:
I had replaced both front wheel cylinders (and shoes and springs and
adjusters and hoses and master cylinder). After bleeding the left
front wheel cylinder, I snapped off the bleeder valve from
over-tightening it. I went to replace the wheel cylinder, and took
what was available that should fit my car. It did not match the same
part number series as the "new" one I just broke. It was heavier - but
had the same diameter pistons. So I figured I'd use it. Had a hard
time installing it. (you'd think - doesn't match the one I just took
out, doesn't match the one on the right front - I'd say "no thanks"
and use an exact replacement.

Well, it pulled to the left. Not noticeable at 30-35 miles an hour,
but very noticeable at 45 or under heavy braking. So I replaced it
AGAIN exactly matching the one I had in the first place.

The left front drum was in bad shape, so I replaced that - but having
already experienced the joys of braking with unmatched parts - I
figured I'd better replace the right front drum for good measure.

So - shoes on both sides replaced and match. Brake springs replaced.
Adjusters replaced. Wheel cylinders replaced and match. Now I want the
drums EXACTLY the same in the front. Everything matched left to right,
everything replaced or repaired front to back.

If it still pulls - I'm punting. (also checked bearings per Matt's
notes). Well, if it still pulls I'm examining brake lines for crimping
- then I'm punting! I'm starting to see why shops charge so much per
hour - although more of it should go to the mechanics.
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