Re: [Amc-list] Removing hub from drum - press, hammer or replace

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

If all you want is a turned drum, do not take it apart!
There is no need to remove a drum from the hub to turn it!
Just take the rear seal and wheel bearings out and the shop will turn it!
Beware if you put a new drum on one side and a turrned drum on the other you will likely have a pull in the brakes until the machined drum wears in. Just a fact of life.
   When working in the shop we usually took a light cut off the new drum so they matched and the customer would not come back complaining of a pull. 

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>
> It has retaining screws on the rear drums. Those were no issue (after
> the judicious application of hammer). The left front hub was just
> free-floating. The right front is swaged on. I'm starting to wonder
> how long it's been on. Anyway, heading to a machine shop today. It's
> coming off one way or another! (or maybe I should just leave it alone
> and see if I can get the drum turned with the hub inside. All I want
> is a nice, clean, turned drum on a good hub).
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  > >I did not hit the studs with a cold chisel yet - I'm thinking the
>  >  >studs are swaged. Not sure if a 1500 pound press would "convince" 'em
>  >  >to let go.
>  >  >
>  >  >The other side of the question: since the drivers side hub just slid
>  >  >right off, it wouldn't be swaged. Does it need to be? Or do the bolts
>  >  >take care of that.
>  >
>  >
>  >  This might be obtuse and obstinate, but did you remember to take
> off the three small retaining screws that hold the drum to the hub?
>  >
>  >  -- Marc
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  >
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