Re: [Amc-list] "Transmission" rebuild... yeah right!

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

Yep, they're antiques for sure, especially pre 63 Ramblers (64 American)! After that they're pretty much just old cars, except for the trunnion suspension and a few other quirks, like the torque tube on the 63-66 Classic. 

The counter guy was/is an idiot! The u-joint is the same used on Mustangs and Falcons with sixes, and I wouldn't be surprised if used on Mavericks and everything else with the 200 six. Ford 250 sixes might use a bigger one. 

The isolation link in the clutch linkage can be replaced with a piece of industrial belting (best) or a piece cut from the sidewall of a tire. A chunk of steel plate like you did works too, but might introduce a bit more wear in the pivots and such. I replaced one with a solid metal piece a long time ago, and it worked fine for the 2-3 years I drove it -- as a teenager/early 20s (around 18-21). So it didn't get "gentle" treatment, was just driven!

The only problem with the "big nut" driveshaft is it looks way different from what most people expect, and you HAVE to tighten the nut so tight. After that it's pretty simple. 

I try to fix/clean/replace any and everything that looks like it's been on my car for a long time when I have some part taken apart for maintenance too. "don't fix it if it ain't broke" means you better have friends, a cell phone, and a credit card when you get stranded. Preventive maintenance means you can have reasonable confidence that you can get in and drive anywhere. 

I didn't think the freeze plugs in my 258 block were bad (the one in my Jeep that I'm FINALLY putting that 4.0L head on). Looked good, a little flaking on one but no leaks and looked okay. Well, they're behind the exhaust manifold, and I really don't want to have to take the manifolds off in a few weeks/months, so I popped them out and put in new ones anyway. The one with a little rust flaking was fine, but one of the two small ones, that looked great from the outside, was almost rusted through. Screwdriver went right through it with the first hammer tap! Those little 1" plugs are hard to get out, by the way! Glad they went to five 2" later. 

----------------
Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 19:35:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>

OK, with this car I've entered a new world of car wrenching. Used
to be, I was just some nut with Ramblers; they're old, but
familiar and you can just drive them.

But now I'm wrenching on antiques, actual antiques, like when
I was a kid people did with Model A's, only those were at least
popular. Then again, we have the internet...

<snip>

I'd set the driveshaft aside early, and totally forgot to
check the U-joints. The front was OK since it was bathed in
transmission lube (one good feature that comes with a leaky
rear seal). THe rear was rattley loose. (I called NAPA, the
guy said too quickly "not available". I'd said out of habit
"Rambler AMerican" and the idiot didn't say anything like "we
have no listing for Rambler" which I'd excuse young people for,
he said "not available". I looked it up myself, online, called
back, they'll be here tomorrow. Unless he lied to me...)

So everything else is completely together, so I filled the
trans with Mobil1 15W-50 synthetic, and started it up. Took
some pedal-flapping as it's been a month, carb went dry. Slight
tick... went away in 60 seconds.

Went through all the gears (no driveshaft), everything OK (no
rotating parts grinding the bellhousing, etc). But no (clutch)
pedal! The pushrod is at the end of it's adjustment.

It's that @#@#$@#!! inner clutch bellcrank pivot, that weird
thing made out of fabric. I knew it was gonna fail... it was
mostly torn through. It stretches over 1/2" with pressure,
preventing full pushrod travel.

I'd tried to fix this thing earlier, but put it back together
instead.  It's a really odd part, the fabric is in tension
when you press the clutch pedal, and it kinda goes around the
bellhousing. It's complex. So I put it back together.

Now, having no choice, I simply replaced it with a piece of
3/32" steel sheet. Simple! Got all my adjustment range back,
pedal came up.

<snip>

I took the big-nut coupler all apart, cleaned, inspected, and
photographed it. It's nothing mysterious, it's simply a splined
slightly tapered sleeve/yoke, slit so that it can be compressed
by the big nut.  It's no big deal, I don't know what all the
noise is. I expect no troubles with it going back in.

<snip>

After this though, I'll have 100% confidence in the entire
chassis, it'll be like-new. When I rebuild the engine/build
a replacement, and do the rear wheel bearings, I'd drive it
anywhere any distance.

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)

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