Re: [Amc-list] The 'Turbo' Life Cycle (turbo 196)

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

I've NEVER had bottom end problems with a 196 -- not that didn't have 
well over 100K miles on it and was properly maintained. Most of the 
problems stem from abnormal wear due to improper oil changes. The lack 
of a full-flow filter means oil really does need to be changed every 3K 
miles on those old engines! That's one of the few I'd stress changing 
every 3K miles with today's oils. If it's not well maintained, 
especially the carburetor, it will dirty the oil even quicker. I 
maintained my engines reasonably well, though I did quite often go over 
3K miles between changes -- sometimes nearly 5K. But a well tuned engine 
with little or no blow-by won't dirty the oil as fast as a well-worn one 
with poor maintenance. Most of the 196 powered cars started life well, 
as most new cars do, but once on their second/third/fourth/+ owners -- 
well, then they were cheap transportation with minimal maintenance. With 
no full flow oil filter it's a testament to their bottom end strength 
that they lasted well over 100K miles if you ask me!! Ramblers just 
didn't have a lot of resale value from the mid 60s through the 70s. 
Pretty much after 64 or so if it was 3-4 years old resale value was 
shot. Resale value wasn't real high on anything back then, but Ramblers 
seemed to suffer more. Popularity drives prices, and Ramblers weren't 
real popular. The bottom end is all forged. Though there are only four 
main bearings they are as wide as most V-8 mains. The crank has generous 
amounts of metal between the journals. It might flex, but you'd have to 
turn it up over 4K to do it. The engine is rated for top power at 4200 
rpm, but it wouldn't turn over about 3700-3800 in the car going down 
hill in gear (IIRC). I recall that from my younger days when I would run 
mine on occasion flat out in Idaho desert roads. I'm not talking about 
going down a mountain, but a definite incline near the foothills of the 
Sawtooth range. I don't think I'd turn it over 4500 rpm, which would be 
a limiting factor. While sixes are inherently balanced by nature, 
balancing the reciprocating parts would be a very good idea. I'd also 
prep the rods -- polish the sides,have them shot-peened, install ARP 
bolts. They might be forged, but they are still long. The only 196 I've 
seen with a broke rod let go at high rpm. BOTH sides of the block had 
holes and the oil pan had a gash across it (#2 rod). The camshaft was 
broken where the rod hit it too -- quite a mess!! The cause was a loose 
rod bolt. The engine had been recently rebuilt (I bought the car as a 
tow-away for parts), but that one twisted rod cap STILL had the other 
bolt in it. No signs of the nut for the other one. There were fire 
department maps and other papers in the trunk. Apparently the car 
belonged to a volunteer fireman who was literally on his way to a fire 
(or other emergency call)! To bad the Rambler let him down -- but I 
blame the guy who apparently didn't tighten that nut correctly, not the 
car! --------------- Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 16:15:23 -0500 From: 
Archimedes <Freedom@xxxxxxxx> I think the bottom end would be the main 
worry (no pun intended). Those engines were famous for doing the 
herky-jerky on both rod and main bearings. If you do it, balance, 
balance, balance. Line bore & blueprint...

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)

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