Gary SNIP the frame frame rail shows advanced rust, the shock tower has rusted away. It has been suggested to install a mustang front clip,or go to tubular. does anyone have info on a solution to the problem. I really do not want to scrap the car out Garry SNIP John Elle can tell you how to restore it! SNIP Gary, there is no Mustang II kit that will easily fit the Concord body. If you look close you'll see that the existing suspension is very close to the MII design, except the springs are mounted high. I see your problem though! If the spring tower is rusted away, you only have two choices -- replace it with a good one or cut it all out and go with a tubular front frame section. Finding a replacement would be easy enough -- any Hornet, Gremlin, Concord, Spirit, or even Eagle should have everything you need. You'd need to do a bit of trimming around the front, maybe splice the front edge of the old car to the new, but that's not much work. Frank Swygert SNIP The answer to your question is neither simple nor short as there is quite a bit of information in your question that is not included. Of significance, is some indication of your capabilities to tackle a repair of this nature, also what qualifications were had from those who suggested to either tube it or install a Mustang front clip suspension. If no qualifications, than at the risk of offending some one un-intentionally it can be done, I've done this repair! But it is neither easy or simple, nor depending on a number of factors, cheap! To a certain extent I will answer this e-mail on the AMX files and complete it by sending to you directly with pictures to back it up with. If anyone wants a more complete answer too I can accommodate that. First of all, if the rust damage you are describing is anywhere near correct and having no idea geographically where you are located I will make the assumption that you have no clue how much damage has been caused by the rust. I will not be surprised that both frame rails are rusted completely through where the lower control arm and the engine mount cross member are bolted on to the car. Through to the point where you can pass your hand through into the interior of the frame rail in up to two different directions on both rails and they have begun to flex outwards from the bottom causing the suspension to sag and come up with weird camber figures on the front wheels. Along with the rusted out spring tower the inner fender wells have possibly started to stretch and buckle and even split as they pick up the stress of holding the front of the car together. This damage will progress pack under the floor boards and into the foot well for the rear passenger compartment causing structural problems at the rocker panels and in and around the transmission hump. There will be further damage towards the back of the car but that can be addressed at a different time. You may even see stress cracks on the frame rails where the strut rod mounts are mounted on to them on the flat part that extends down wards on the bottom as the curve under the floor boards. This now identifies the area of the problems that you will want to resolve. Mustang II Front Clip. Despite what Frank says and having no idea what your recommended solutions were what you want in this are is the system that uses both an upper and lower control arm in the shape of an "A" if you will, rather than the upper arm being an A and the lower one resembling the AMC Strut rod configuration which is what Frank is referring too as being similar to the AMC component, and he is right with that assumption. What is wrong is that won't work you must have the better configuration and probably that is what most people refer to! An independent front suspension of this configuration can be seen at the following web sites. http://www.jimmeyerracing.com/ http://www.southernrods.com/ http://www.classicperform.com/ http://www.martzchassis.net/ http://www.fatmanfab.com/ However Frank is correct that no one makes a package for AMC applications so it would have to be custom made. Prices on this would be in the $2000.00 range and up. As you did not establish a budget, but you mentioned this part, than this part now establishes a budget, to start with, 'cause it will get more expensive as you go on. Also when obtained you have no place to install it, as the installation point is all rusted out! It will not do you much good un-less you rebuild the front of the car. Of course if you have a BFHammer, and a torch and some welding knowledge and tube cutting and fitting capability, also not mentioned, the concept of purchasing a tube front clip and installing same could be done, but as no one makes one of these either, it would have to be purchased, fabbed and then modified to fit using what ever is left of the rusted sheet metal of your car. Estimate another 2 or 3 grand for this endeavor so now the budget is up to 5 Grand or so and we don't even know if you can weld or have the equipment. If you find the inference offence, I am sorry you did not state your skill and offensive is not intentional. As to the work involved, it is work! A lot of it and may be an area you have never gone to before. My car when done, is driven and shown. A butcher job is not on my list of things to do. There is however another solution you can use. You can front clip your 1979 AMX., So far your budget is about 2 grand at a minimum. You will need a front clip. One that is not rusted. What will work directly on your 1979 AMX is a front clip from a 1979 + Spirit, Concord 4door, Concord wagon or a Concord 2DSD. There is probably is nothing that is salvageable off of the front of your AMX to allow you to piece part stuff into it, 'sides you have to weld to do it. How is your welding skills? Anything from a non-safety bumper car such as a Hornet or Gremlin will not work from the suspension forward as there is no provisions to mount the shock mounts for the safety bumper. Although from the suspension back things will work. But if things are that rusted on your AMX than parts cars for donor cars are not any better. So! You take part of your budget and you buy a running or rolling Concord or what ever from a South West state that you find one advertised for sale in. That should cost about $500 or so to buy the car then between $700 and a grand to ship it to your home. There goes up to $1500 of your budget. Notice it is cheaper than purchasing a Mustang Front Clip! Then purchase $50.00 worth of spot weld drills and start disassembling the front of the Donor car until you have an available front clip ready to put back on. A small flat crow bar is useful too in order to pry body panels apart. A 4 inch grinder is handy, a chop grinder air powered is handy, as is a 2# Hammer and lots of air operated tools. No Air?, Add it to your budget! Remember you have to paint this thing too! We should be pushing $2000.00 fairly easy now and you have not even got things together yet or completely apart. But now you have the donor car for parts and the tools to make it happen. All it takes now is time and some skill in welding. Never welded before? Well neither did I when I tried the same thing. But with a bottom end Lincoln wire feed and some practice it all went back together, and the week it was done it was driven 1000 miles round trip and placed 3rd in class at a MOPAR show. I only set the car on fire about 6 times in the process. Remember! The grinder is your friend! And so is a squirt bottle full of water! More to follow directly to Gary, if he is interested and to any one else too. But I disagree here with Frank. It is a lot of work and it is not cheap but if you like the car enough it is worth it to do it. It was for me. The really tricky part will be getting it welded back together so that the car goes straight down the road rather than Cattywumpus! The big expense would be in purchasing a Rust Free Donor Car and getting it shipped to you and purchasing tools you do not have. $2000.00 may be close to what you will be able to get away with. Initially anyway. If this sounds beyond your capabilities and desires, go back to the Mustang front clip idea, buy a late model one, but make sure the Mustang is still attached to it and install your 343 in a Mustang! Later and good luck John. 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