Re: [Amc-list] Amc-list Digest, Vol 7, Issue 43

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

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> Subject:
> Amc-list Digest, Vol 7, Issue 43
> From:
> amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date:
> Fri, 20 Jul 2007 05:02:23 -0700
> To:
> amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Trunnion bolts frozen no more (Tom Jennings)
>    2. Re: My Kingdom for the Cam - con't (Sandwich Maker)
>    3. Re: Trannie's - con't (Jim Blair)
>    4. Re: brake fluids (Jim Blair)
>    5. Re: disk brake hack (Jim Blair)
>    6. Re: disk brake hack (Jim Blair)
>    7. Aisin 4 speed Trans. - High Performance - (Brien Tourville)
>    8. Re: disk brake hack (Armand Eshleman)
>    9. Rear disc brake brackets (weld on style) (Jim Blair)
>   10. Re: 4 sale 1970 MARK Donohue (bobm)
>   11. Re: Pearly Whites (Jim Blair)
>   12. Chevy in a Studie ! - who's your Daddy ? - (Brien Tourville)
>   13.  Chevy in a Studie ! - who's your Daddy ? - (d stohler)
>   14. Re: Chevy in a Studie ! - who's your Daddy ? - (Sandwich Maker)
>   15. Re: Chevy in a Studie ! - who's your Daddy ? - (Sandwich Maker)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 17:41:16 -0700
> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Amc-list] Trunnion bolts frozen no more
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <1184892076.30696.87.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain
>
> Because they no longer exist!
>
> Took 1 and 1/2 carbide drill bits to get 'em out. Went slow, lots of
> coolant. Got it clamped real square, didn't touch the casting threads at
> all.
>
> I picked out all the remaining threads. One side went OK, though it took
> some effort. The other side took an hour. I didn't get more than 2 - 3
> turns out at one time, most of it I had to pick out 1/8" to 1/16" of
> thread at a time, and each section was practically welded into the
> casting. I've never seen such thorough corrosion.
>
> Didn't damage the casting threads much, it'll be fine when I get a
> 5/8-11 tap. Luckily the arms are OK too, one was egged but I tapped it
> round with a tiny hammer and welded the fracture in the protruding
> thread, and will run a tap through that.
>
> Just gotta get some trunnion bolts and nuts now, and think about ways to
> keep the damn thing lubricated in the future.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 21:22:05 -0400 (EDT)
> From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] My Kingdom for the Cam - con't
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <200707200122.l6K1M5A15824@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> " From: Brien Tourville <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> " 
> " From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> " 
> " 
> " The most challenging part of this motor to me is the O-ringed head
> " business, and a suitable fuel::air source. I'm favoring a huge-ass
> " carburetor like the original. Missing conn rods, will have to cough up
> " real $ for those.
> " 
> " 
> " ===.===
> " 
> " 
> " The AMC 360 rods can be had in
> " FORGED from MadDog Racing for around
> " $200.00 a set - a Bargain - .
>
> iirc eagle has 4.0 rods that'd be a drop-in.
>
> " Yeah, I'd say if you're going Transaxle
> " get one out of a PORSCHE - spin the ring
> " gear over to function having the engine
> " out front rather than out back - the 
> " 914 owners do frequently
> " when upping the ante to a Flat 6 or V8.
>
> -porsche- 914s came from the factory with flat sixes, 2.0 or 2.2 iirc;
> that tranny is good for up to a 3.0 six.  it was also used in 911s.
> the next gen transaxle, the g50, is good for -at-least- 500 hp; it's
> used in the 911 turbos.
>
> -vw- 914s had the flat 4.
>
> " if you don't mind a slight 'upgrade' -
> " find a 70s' Mercedes 6 with Bosch Mechanical
> " injection - drill / tap for the hard lined
> " injectors - and it will look killah.
>
> if you're speaking of bosch k-jetronic, iirc it can also be found on
> bmw and volvo inline sixes and porsche flat sixes, and probably other
> euros, maybe japanese too.  the real diesel-like bosch mechanical
> wasn't used iirc after the mid '60s.  it was really in its heyday on
> the mid-'50s 300slr.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
> internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 19:01:24 -0700
> From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Trannie's - con't
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <BAY114-F3171339608529F1D8CBE03ACF40@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
> A: Reading this post just reminded me that the Mopar O/D auto trans used 
> with diesel and V10 has a low round bell, similar (if not the same as) Buick 
> Nailhead! I had one (off a V10 truck) and never thought to check it out!
>    I have a 327 with the adapter ring for TH400 and I'm going to compare it 
> to the TH200R4 used in an Opel or other Buick that looks like it mates to a 
> nailhead. I'm still waiting to check it out the O/D auto used with the 4.0L 
> in Landrovers. AFAIK they kept the nailhead pattern to the end of 
> production.
>
>
> From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Trannie's - con't
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans."
> <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID:
>
> <071920071953.29768.469FC13E0003ECB6000074482215593414CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>
> I read a Nailhead standard trans article a while back.
> Not many made, Buicks are luxury cars. Hard to find. There
> is/was a new bell being made but at the time I researched it the
> thing was big dollars.
>    Tim Linton is supposed to know where there is/was a 4 speed
> V8 car that would work.
> If I had time I would just go get the 4 speed stuff. I know he
> said the shifter was gone, but I don't give a rat$ A$$ about
> originality and I could make something work I'm sure...
>
> --
> Mark Price
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary!  
> http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_hotmailtextlink2
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 19:06:08 -0700
> From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] brake fluids
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <BAY114-F3603C1ADCDEA3C5EB00B8CACF40@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
> A: That's Dot 5 fluid. Dot 4 has a higher boiling point plus additives for 
> ABS computers over the Dot 3. FWIW, I suggest only using Castrol GTLMA (low 
> moisture absorptive) with real rubber seals. Especially if you have a Jeep 
> with the manual clutch cylinder made by Girling (says right on it to use 
> only the GTLMA) When you put the other stuff in them, the seals tend to fail 
> in 6 months or less (even on the brand new master cyls we sell!) Directions 
> in the box for the master cyl say to use only the GTLMA or equivalent.
>
>
> From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Amc-list] brake fluids
> To: amc list <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <717650.43274.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> i have heard that if you use the dot 4 (i beleive)
> silicone brake fluid in a regular dot 2 or 3 system,
> it will eat out all the rubber seals. i dont want to
> use the silicone fluid. but what about the other way
> around. i have a master cylinder from a military
> hummer. brand new. not rebuilt. we use the silicone
> fluid. does anyone know if there are problems using
> regular dot 3 fluid in a silicone suited m/c?? i hope
> not cause i didnt even think about that till after i
> blead the brakes and have had it on for about 3 days
> now.... oops, shoulda thunk a that earlier?? lol.
>
> dave stohler
> http://picasaweb.google.com/das24rules
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> http://newlivehotmail.com
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 19:11:39 -0700
> From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] disk brake hack
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <BAY114-F28D4A9FD381302DE8244E0ACF40@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
> A: Did you do anything with the drum brake combination valve? If not, I 
> suggest getting a Summit Sum-G3905 proportioning valve. That will allow you 
> manual adjust of the front/rear braking proportion.
>    I would keep my eyes on Craig's list for a '94 to '98 Grand Cherokee 
> being parted for the rear disc setup.
>
>
> From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Amc-list] disk brake hack
> To: amc list <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <334347.7020.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> so, i got the MUCH bigger, better, more responsive
> master cylinder on. still have rear brake lock up
> first. i have the little 9x2 rear brakes with the
> little wheel cylinders. does anybody have a heavy duty
> 9x2.5 rear brake set up with the big wheel cylinders
> they would be willing part with? i would love to
> upgrade to disks back there also, but i dont have the
> money for that right now. any help would be great.
>
> dave stohler
> http://picasaweb.google.com/das24rules
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> http://liveearth.msn.com
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 20:00:13 -0700
> From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] disk brake hack
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <BAY114-F357EC0FB0E8A12EDA52C8CACF40@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
> A: The master cylinder that WAS in my '84 J10 and probably the '83 J10 (both 
> 6 cyls) are 2 different bores. I'm switching the '84 to Hydroboost (to clear 
> the HO EFI intake and increase braking power) and I'm not sure yet on the 
> '83 (it's staying carbed for the moment with the AW4, just to prove it's 
> doable to some naysayers. It may get a 4.0L swapped in or just the EFI soon 
> after though as I'm getting spoiled! <G>)
>
>
> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] disk brake hack
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans."
>
>
>
> NOTE: Some wagner master cylinders allegedly have different
> bores for
> front and rear brakes but I never found one in a TSM or
> aftermarket
> catalog.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Need a brain boost? Recharge with a stimulating game. Play now!  
> http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=club_hotmailtextlink1
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2007 23:36:11 -0400
> From: Brien Tourville <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Amc-list] Aisin 4 speed Trans. - High Performance -
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <46A02DAB.3080407@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> -0400 From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 
> Trannies - con't
>
>
>
> I'm almost agreeing with Brien on this one -- Novak has a vested 
> interest in selling adapters. I said almost... Most of Novak's customers 
> are hard core four wheelers. They beat on their rigs hard and build high 
> power. The AW4 high efficiency torque converter has a low stall and 
> isn't well suited for high rpm horsepower engines. I don't think anyone 
> makes a high stall converter for it. Most of Novak's customers would 
> want to run big V-8s (built 360s) with high stall converters so they can 
> rev the engines to build power and still not be moving fast. The AW4 
> won't do that. So from a big power four wheeler perspective, the 
> transmission just isn't strong enough. As I said before, I wouldn't put 
> it behind a drag racing built 360, but I'd definitely put it behind a 
> mildly built cruiser that might see an occasional pass down the strip.
> -- Frank Swygert Publisher, "American Motors Cars" Magazine (AMC) For 
> all AMC enthusiasts http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html (free download 
> available!)
>
>
>
>
>
> ===.===
>
>
>
>
>
> Ok - perhaps, but Novak left zero margins in his blanket whitewash on 
> the Aisin trans.
> - granted he caters to 'Wall Climbers' - but not totally.
>
>
>
> Want an AW4 to go behind a 'Werk'd  AMC 360 / 401 ?
>
> Want an AW4 Aisin convertor capable of handling these motors ?
>
> Want a 2wd Aisin 4spd. Auto - for 'Hot' Street ?
>
>
>
> Again, the Aisin trannies are being used behind some Brutal
> Twin Turbo Supras - seeing 600 to 700 rwhp - .
>
>
> Yes, these are built ups - after 400 rwhp - , but so are
> the TH-400 / A-727 / Ford whatevers - those aren't just
> valve bodies and good to go.
>
> 727s kick sprags out - require the HD planateries - oil
> cooling internal mods - my 'Build' files aren't on this rig,
> but the read is entailed and costly.
>
> 999s with the 5 clutchs don't get oiling to the 5th clutch
> since there isn't a lube hole near it - the good MoPar builders
> know these things - or eventally they burn.
>
> HEMI torquefiltes torched 5th plates which is why the 5th plate
> setups came in a box - put it in yourself - if not - you got the
> 440 Torqueflite spec.
>
>
>
> So do I think Novak is 'up front' ? No.
>
> Glad he's doing for the hobby ? Sure.
>
> Pays to read up before you Plastic ? Yeah.
>
>
>
> Can you run an Aisin behind a powerful AMC ?
>
>
>
> Yes.
>
>
> I'd speculate, and agree with Frank that
> 3-350 HP is Max - either have 'spares'
> or get one 'massaged for power levels
> up to running 'High 9s' - > go here:
>
>
>
>
> http://www.*import**performance*trans.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   
Tom, I'm going to say again -- leave the original trunnion bolt alone! 
Get a 5/8" steel stud from an industrial supply. Get two jam nuts (thin 
nuts) from the same place. Weld one on one end of the stud. Now you have 
your bolt.

Look at the trunnion. On the inside there is a flat right where the pin 
runs through. Drill in the center of that and tap for a 45 or 90 zerk 
fitting. You can file a groove in the casting threads if desired to help 
spread grease along the length.

In all honesty a replacement pin should be fine though. Assemble with 
anti-seize and good lithium grease. Pressure, heat, and metal filings 
mixed with old mineral grease appears to make an excellent cold weld 
compound over time. That shouldn't happen with the new stuff. I don't 
like to use the original style pin because the hole drilled through it 
weakens that end -- it can wring off again if there is a problem later. 
The other thing is you'd have to file a groove in the pin instead of the 
casting to spread grease more evenly along the length. I just find that 
harder to do. You could cross drill the replacement pin, and/or drill 
the hole deeper and put in more grease holes, but that further weakens 
the pin. Running a 9/16" drill bit through the casting cuts the threads 
down a bit. The pin is noticeably looser, but not loose enough to move 
more than about 1/32" side to side. Grease flows through the loose 
threads better though. That's what I did to mine rather than file a 
groove, I just thought you'd like the groove idea better. You've got a 
mill to work with too, I didn't.

Just my advice, whatever you decide to do I'm confident will work!

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)

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