[Amc-list] Detailing issues

[Don Johnson <donjohnson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

> Snip
> I'm starting to restore the underside of my '68 AMX
> and wondering what
> colors various items (rear end, suspension, etc)
> were from the factory. 
> Does anyone like Eastwood have the correct colors?
> Snip


Okay, here is what I have amassed over the last while.
I apologize for the length and I can't remember where I got it from, but it might be the AMC club in Europe. 
I do not make any claim to accuracy so use at your discretion.
I tried to send all the info in 1 message but I think it was rejected.
Don

 1 Power Steering Gearbox Black  - no natural cast iron.  Natural alum top plate and end cap.  black phosphate bolts   
 2 Strut Rods and Mounts:  chassis black   
 3 All Four Shocks: almost gloss black with paint inspection marks.  Originals were by gabriel, said American Motors and were date coded and had PNs   
 4 All Front End Mounting Hardware: clear (silver) zinc  for the most part.  Some special locknuts are clear cad.  Tie rod screws and nuts for adj are phosphate   
 5 Transmission Cross members:  chassis black or bare metal   
 6 4 Speed Bell housing:  natural alum, assembled on the engine when painted, ~2" near engine is painted- cover the bolts.   
 7 4 Speed Tranny: natural cast iron, has a few paint insp marks    
 8 Drive Shaft Natural -- Metal  : some were painted black.  Both have stripe(s) to denote 4spd or auto   
 9 All Clutch Linkages, Crossbar (Z-Bar) and mounts Natural -- Metal: not sure, bar was phosphate on my car, zbar may be natural or zinc;The main pushrod to the pedal is black paint.  Rest of the parts were a mix of natural metal, clear zinc, and phosphate.     
 10 Power Brake Booster and Master Cylinder: almost gloss black.  Entire unit painted incl MC lid.  MC lid has AMC PN for fluid   
 11 Rear Axle Housing:  Black or bare metal   
 12 Drum Brake Backing Plates: chassis black    
 13 Torque Links and Fame and Axle Mounts: chassis black       
 14 Upper and Lower Read Shock Mounting Plates: uppers were bare, lower were black if rear end was black, bare if bare.     
 15 Rear Brake Drums:  black   
 16 Exhaust Hangers: originals were zinc plated metal with black phosphate rivets.  Later replacements were bare metal and used a semi-tubular rivet.  Later again two of the plates were dropped and they used a rivet with a bigger head.     
 17 The engine brackets to the rubber mounts were black on 68s and then later unpainted.  Dunno if they stopped painting in early 69 at the same time with the xmber but sometime in '69 they were definitely bare metal  
 18 Bumper to Frame Mounts: chassis black   
 19 Front Fender to Frame Brace : univ black if you mean the ones in the engine bay    
 20 Ignition Coil Bracket and Mount : clear zinc   
 21 Throttle Cable Bracket on Intake Manifold : dunno   
 22 Alt. Mounting Brackets:  Painted engine color, "Z" one is univ. black   
 23  
 24 Gas Tank and Mounting Straps : galvanized and covered with undercoating   
 25 Trunk Bumper to Frame Mounts: univ black     
 26 Trunk Latch Mechanism: body color       
 27 Trunk Latch Loop: body color     
 28 Engine Cross Member: bare or chassis black     
 29 Lower Control Arms  : chassis black   
 30 Spindles: chassis black       
 31 Disk Brake Callipers: "    "     
 32 Rotors: bare     
 33 Backing Plates for Disc: black, IMO matches the master cyl  - fairly glossy   
 34 Trunnions:  partial or all nickel plated   
 35 Upper Control Arms : chassis black    
 36 Coil Springs : black w. applicable stripe      
 37 Inner and Outer Tie Rods and Adj Sleeves.  natural   
 38 Center Link  Natural, dark metal from forging   
 39 Pitman Arm  natural with paint insp mark   
 40 Front Sway Mounts and links   Bolts are clear zinc.  Bushing mounts are either bare or galvanized.   
    
    
 Most suspension items were painted in 68, but it seems that in 69 they stopped painting some of the xmbrs, etc, and this carried over into 70 where much  
Power steering  
This is an Eaton unit used in various make and model cars-some like the  
Fords actually have a fluid bowl separate from the pump body.  AMC has  
them together.  
  
The colors:  the cast iron body of the pump is a natural cast finish.  
The bowl, cover, and brackets are semi gloss black.  There are 3  
different pulleys.  For automatic shift cars the pulley is a stamped  
steel piece that is painted semi gloss black.  The bolt that holds it in  
place is natural.  It is a single groove pulley.  For standard shift  
cars there are two different pulleys.  One, the most common, is a  
stamped steel pulley that it is the same as the auto equipped pulley but  
there is a second stamped pulley that is a little smaller attached to  
the front.  This is used to drive the smog pump, and a date coded, AM  
script fan belt goes from this pulley to the smog pump pulley (as is the  
power steering pump belt-and the AM script IS NOT in white paint-those  
are the replacement belts.  The originals had the script embossed into  
the belt).  It is also semi gloss black.  The second pulley is a one  
piece cast iron unit found on some 1968 cars.  The unit has two grooves  
of different diameters.  It is possibly semi gloss black, but the few I  
have seen did not have any paint on them.  The standard shift pump also  
has a bracket attached to the pump to allow adjustment in the smog pump  
belt.  This is also semi gloss black.  The shaft for the auto pump is  
shorter than the shaft for the standard shift pump.  The pump attaches  
to a cast aluminum plate that is natural with a smaller aluminum spacer  
plate between them.  The nuts and washers are natural. DO NOT  
overtighten the pump or you will crack the top of the aluminum bracket.  
The pump also has a bracket that attaches to a long stud coming from the  
water pump/timing cover.  This uses a fine thread, natural colored nut,  
a lock washer, AND large flat washers on either side of the  
bracket-often missing.  
  
The lid of the pump is held in place by a wing nut.  It and the washer  
under it are natural. (here is a tip-you do not have to remove the top  
to check the fluid level, which should be about 0.5-1 inch below the  
top.  Just loosen the top wing nut some. Lift the cap and turn it as the  
hole for attaching is off center.  You will be able to easily look into  
the bowl at the fluid level).  There is some stamped text on top of the  
lid so the paint should not be so thick as to cover it up. There is a  
gasket under the lid.  
  
There is a large hex head on the side of the pump.  This should be  
natural.  It has a two digit date code and the pressure stamped on the  
side.  The 68 and 69 pumps have a lower pressure than the 70 pump.  DO  
NOT interchange the pumps unless you interchange the box as well.  I  
have seen some pumps with an off white paint mark in this area, but  
don't know what it is for.  
  
There are two hoses going to the pump (or from it).  The low pressure  
return line goes to a nipple attached to the fluid bowl.  It is held in  
place by a natural colored spring-type clamp with a nut and screw.  The  
hose is black and I do not believe there are any printed markings on it  
(but not sure off hand-I'm not at home so I can't check).  The second  
line is a high pressure line and has a fitting attached to either end.  
The fittings are cadmium plated and are angled to fit on the pump or  
box-you will not be able to put the wrong end in the wrong place.  The  
original hose has a "fitting" in the middle of the hose the same cadmium  
color.  This is to stop the hose from "ballooning" or expanding under  
pressure-which is over 1000 pounds.  The aftermarket hoses I have seen  
have not had this middle piece.  
  
I'm thinking there is a red paint mark on the return line but not  
sure-seems there is a small red paint mark somewhere here.  Will look  
later tonight.  
  
You can use automatic transmission fluid in the pump without problems.  
They are very prone to leak and a rebuild kit is mostly O-rings and  
gaskets and seem easy to find, and are easy to rebuild.  
  

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