[Amc-list] Detailing issues page 2

[Don Johnson <donjohnson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hope that answers all your power steering pump questions. You may note  
that the 6 cyl. pumps were the Delco units in Javelins.
      All of the PS pump hardware is clear zinc plated (silver) except the ones that I note in a minute.  Tom said natural but it is actually clear zinc.  The two short bolts that hold the pump body together are black phosphate, the rest of the long bolts that pass thru the body are clear zinc.  These two blackened bolts are usually grade 7 or 8 and have an "SSC", "FP", etc marking.  The three long bolts are usually "EWF" marked and these are special bolts with longer than normal threaded portions.  There are different lengths of both the black and zinc bolts that go thru the pump body because of the bracket that attaches to the water pump stud- the longer screws go thru the bracket.  There are two different brackets that attach the PS pump to the water pump stud: 69 and prior uses one type, 70-71 another; they differ in which two bolt locations they attach to on the pump body.   
         
      The OE belts were by Dayco and had the heat stamped "AM" and the group number was inked on it with white ink. This is the belt that Tom mentions.  The surface of the AM mark is level with the top of the belt surface and there is a small area around the AM font that is lowered by the stamping process.  There is also some type of production code heat stamped into it but I am not sure it decodes using the conventional date code process.  
         
      Low pressure hose: I've never seen any markings on them.  The hose clamps were by Wittek, originals had a "2" stamped on them along with the Wittek name and Chicago IL.  The clamp itself was galvanized, the screw and nut were clear zinc. You can buy repro wittek clamps today and they are identical to the original 1968 era ones except that they do not have the "2" stamped in.  Prior to 1968 this clamp used a slotted fillister head screw; ~1968 and after it was an indented hex head slotted screw.  
         
      High pressure hose: has a white stripe and some white numbers/date codes.  Some date codes are easy to decode month day year XXYYZ, some I can't figure.   See picture for two examples of the codes on the hose.  
         
      The pump body is cast iron, but is not a light gray like the common simulated cast iron paints.  The correct finish is dark, almost like charcoal, and it is a phosphated finish, not a paint (see pictures and additional restoration text below). The pump body has casting codes but they don't always make sense to me using the conventional date code format.   
         
      Pressure relief valve cap (giant hex head cap on the side) was plated, clear cad or zinc, I am not sure which. It is stamped with the max pressure and also a date code like HF for month year.  In general, 68-9 had 1100 max, 70 had 1200 max, although I also have a 900 max pump but I am not sure of its year and what model car it was on.  
         
      Generally, the pump body had three paint daubs: red on the front near the seal area, mostly hidden by pulley; some had a green daub on the top; most had a white "line" on back, below the reservoir area; some had an additional daub on the back (see pics).  I have one 67 pump and all marks are done in yellow and some '70s have some funky blue marks like the BBB color.    
         
      The pulley screw has an integral lockwasher, and the screw head is "indented".  This type marking screw is not used anywhere else on the car so it is hard to find a nice one.  Don't hammer on the OE pulley screw to get the pulley off, use a sacrificial hardware store one!  The pulley flat washer is very thick, ~.18".  There is also a ~.18 thk FW that goes on the special timing cover/water pump/PS bkt stud with nut- it goes behind the integral nut on the stud and spaces the stud out.  These are always missing from water pump changes, so people add stacks of washers behind the brace, which is not correct.   
        
      On 4 spd cars there is also a brace that goes from the PS pump body to the AIR pump.  This attaches to the PS pump with one of the black phosphate screws that pass thru the body.  
        
      The lid uses a "special sized" (diameter and thickness which is not readily available) flat washer and a 5/16-18 wing nut.  The lid's stud, FW, and wing nut are all clear zinc plated.   
        
      All of the PS pump painted parts are semi-gloss black including the lid.  
        
      PS pump.  This is a used, restored PS pump.  It has been *completely* disassembled, including the high pressure hose seat and the venturi that the bowl feeds fluid thru- parts you'd never remove to rebuild it. Then the body was sandblasted; then it was hot black phosphated, rebuilt with new seals, and the paint daubs were added. The charcoal finish of the body is not paint. This is the correct finish for the pump body- I duplicated the finish an NOS one and a mint used one (same finish). 
     
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      All of the PS pump hardware is clear zinc plated (silver) except the ones that I note in a minute.  Tom said natural but it is actually clear zinc.  The two short bolts that hold the pump body together are black phosphate, the rest of the long bolts that pass thru the body are clear zinc.  These two blackened bolts are usually grade 7 or 8 and have an "SSC", "FP", etc marking.  The three long bolts are usually "EWF" marked and these are special bolts with longer than normal threaded portions.  There are different lengths of both the black and zinc bolts that go thru the pump body because of the bracket that attaches to the water pump stud- the longer screws go thru the bracket.  There are two different brackets that attach the PS pump to the water pump stud: 69 and prior uses one type, 70-71 another; they differ in which two bolt locations they attach to on the pump body.   
         
      The OE belts were by Dayco and had the heat stamped "AM" and the group number was inked on it with white ink. This is the belt that Tom mentions.  The surface of the AM mark is level with the top of the belt surface and there is a small area around the AM font that is lowered by the stamping process.  There is also some type of production code heat stamped into it but I am not sure it decodes using the conventional date code process.  
         
      Low pressure hose: I've never seen any markings on them.  The hose clamps were by Wittek, originals had a "2" stamped on them along with the Wittek name and Chicago IL.  The clamp itself was galvanized, the screw and nut were clear zinc. You can buy repro wittek clamps today and they are identical to the original 1968 era ones except that they do not have the "2" stamped in.  Prior to 1968 this clamp used a slotted fillister head screw; ~1968 and after it was an indented hex head slotted screw.  
         
      High pressure hose: has a white stripe and some white numbers/date codes.  Some date codes are easy to decode month day year XXYYZ, some I can't figure.   See picture for two examples of the codes on the hose.  
         
      The pump body is cast iron, but is not a light gray like the common simulated cast iron paints.  The correct finish is dark, almost like charcoal, and it is a phosphated finish, not a paint (see pictures and additional restoration text below). The pump body has casting codes but they don't always make sense to me using the conventional date code format.   
         
      Pressure relief valve cap (giant hex head cap on the side) was plated, clear cad or zinc, I am not sure which. It is stamped with the max pressure and also a date code like HF for month year.  In general, 68-9 had 1100 max, 70 had 1200 max, although I also have a 900 max pump but I am not sure of its year and what model car it was on.  
         
      Generally, the pump body had three paint daubs: red on the front near the seal area, mostly hidden by pulley; some had a green daub on the top; most had a white "line" on back, below the reservoir area; some had an additional daub on the back (see pics).  I have one 67 pump and all marks are done in yellow and some '70s have some funky blue marks like the BBB color.    
         
      The pulley screw has an integral lockwasher, and the screw head is "indented".  This type marking screw is not used anywhere else on the car so it is hard to find a nice one.  Don't hammer on the OE pulley screw to get the pulley off, use a sacrificial hardware store one!  The pulley flat washer is very thick, ~.18".  There is also a ~.18 thk FW that goes on the special timing cover/water pump/PS bkt stud with nut- it goes behind the integral nut on the stud and spaces the stud out.  These are always missing from water pump changes, so people add stacks of washers behind the brace, which is not correct.   
        
      On 4 spd cars there is also a brace that goes from the PS pump body to the AIR pump.  This attaches to the PS pump with one of the black phosphate screws that pass thru the body.  
        
      The lid uses a "special sized" (diameter and thickness which is not readily available) flat washer and a 5/16-18 wing nut.  The lid's stud, FW, and wing nut are all clear zinc plated.   
        
      All of the PS pump painted parts are semi-gloss black including the lid.  
        
      PS pump.  This is a used, restored PS pump.  It has been *completely* disassembled, including the high pressure hose seat and the venturi that the bowl feeds fluid thru- parts you'd never remove to rebuild it. Then the body was sandblasted; then it was hot black phosphated, rebuilt with new seals, and the paint daubs were added. The charcoal finish of the body is not paint. This is the correct finish for the pump body- I duplicated the finish an NOS one and a mint used one (same finish). 
     
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