Re: [Amc-list] tubular strut rods

[Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

I can check my 63 later, and look at the 65? part, but you can check
easily -- it goes through the two back lower ball joint bolt holes.

ALso, that nice looking kit shows the strut chassis pivot in line with
the inner bushing; in the Ramblers it is NOT in line; the strut rod
follows an arc path that DOES NOT correspond to the lower arms travel.
It means two things; the chassis end needs two degrees of freedom (strut
rod up and down, but also moves sligthtly closer and furthe from the
chassis) and also that it pulls the lower steering knuckle pivot
rearward as the wheel moves up and down. It's not much motion, but
there's a lot of force -- which you'll find out if you try to get the
strut rod off the car with the car jacked up and the suspension
"dangling" eg. the spring fully extended. It's a BEAR to get the two
bolts in! But if you jack up the lower arm two pivot points (bushing,
ball joint centerline) parallel with the ground, those two bolts *drop
in*.

Ask me how I know :-)

I now change strut rod bushings with the TIRE ON and the car SITTING ON
THE GROUND! Then everything just unbolts.





On Fri, 2007-06-29 at 14:15 -0700, d stohler wrote:
> does anyone know the degree angle of the strut rods
> for 62 classic and a 65 also?? i hadnt looked at
> heidts suspensions in a long time. i looked today.
> they offer tubular strut rod kits in 44* and 52*. 
> comes with brackets you weld to the frame. looks like
> a more normal round bushing to fit inside the tube.
> comes with rubber bushings. looks as tho if you
> wanted, you could easily replace with poly. i think
> that design rubber might work well. 
> 
> http://www.heidts.com/heip14-2.htm
> 
> dave stohler
> http://picasaweb.google.com/das24rules
> 
> 
>        
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