Re: [Amc-list] rebuilding 304 questions

[Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

On Mon, 2007-06-04 at 21:02 -0700, Jim Blair wrote:
> A: Clean the bolts and block threads before assembling! The Children's book 
> will have the pic someplace, but you can find the diagram online at NAPA.com 
> or one of the others (I don't have full net access at the moment or I'd post 
> the link) It might be up on http://oljeep.com

Damn straight! I run a tap down every single hole that matters (eg. has
a torque spec) and use the right good (antiseize or whatever). It never
ever hurts, lets you spin bolts down by hand, you get to inspect for
problems BEFORE it's in the car, and ensures that torque will be
correct.

Replace all hardware that isn't perfect, it's just too cheap and the
problems with rounded bolts and squashed-flat lockwashers will be
annoying-to-severe. Head and bearing cap bolts usually are reusable for
stock stuff (I know performance and racers replace them often). A whole
box of 3/8" split lockwashers costs only $3! A box of 3/8", 5/16" grade
5 split locks and #5 fine and coarse nuts and assorted 5/16" and 3/8"
bolts will replace all those rusty/rounded accessory bolts. I "stock"
3/8 NF and NC bolts, 1" long, and buy other lengths as needed, it meets
a lot of needs. You can hacksaw them shorter for coil clamp bolts etc if
you don't have every length.

A half hour or hour spent on running a tap through exhaust manifold
holes, all new exhaust studs (cheap!), and real high-temp nickel
anti-seize will make later work easy. All my cars the exhaust manifold
stuff just unbolts with no hassles.


Probably $25 will replace all that small-scale hardware with nice clean
shiny grade 5 stuff that will spin down with your fingers. Nice!


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