[Amc-list] Re; ELECTRO-RAMBLER =revisited=

["Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Here's a better link for that EV site I posted about -- takes you
straight to the car index:
http://www.docdockdocuments.com/conversion/ConversionIndex.htm.

Note that one of the flaws of this design is that it was all bolt-in and
nothing changed to prevent returning to stock. The seating is
inconvenient yet does evenly distribute load. The batteries are on the
passenger side with tandem two person seating. That leaves the trunk
open, but I'd rather fill the trunk and put luggage in the back seat.
Four people or two with luggage. Using something like a 58-69 Rambler,
the best deal would be to cut the trunk floor out and make a recessed
battery box. Put as many batteries as possible in the engine compartment
to help balance weight. The weight would be in the far front and far
rear, but that shouldn't be a problem. Stiffer rear springs would be
needed for the load. I'd use the helper type air bags made for leaf
spring small trucks. That would be the easiest way to go, and it's
adjustable for ride -- no guess work or having to re-do the springs
until they are correct. You'd still have half the trunk also. 

The back seat could be removed -- it's not like this will be a family
car. 12-16 regular size batteries would probably fit across the back
seat area in one of those cars. Then a storage deck could be fitted over
them. That would alleviate the need to cut the trunk floor out, though
that would be a good place for even more batteries. I don't know where
the weight would "out weigh" the added range though. Put 12 batteries in
back seat area, 10-12 in trunk floor, and another 4-6 in the engine bay.
It would be possible to get 30 batteries in there, I think, maybe a
couple more. 360 volts would make a great EV, but the cost is about $200
PER BATTERY (a whopping $6K!!). The advantage is the batteries are
light, compact, and safer (no spills possible without rupturing the
case), but they don't last as long before needing to be replaced. Using
lead-acid batteries would require a tray to contain spills with a drain
AND good ventilation to the battery enclosure to prevent any possible
explosions. That would increase cost to build, but that's a one-time
good deal. The batteries would last longer and cost about $170 each --
just over $5K. After replacing once you break even with the extra
construction required. 

One thing that bugs me -- all home builts I've seen use a clutch... why?
Any fully synchronized trans will shift as long as no torque is being
applied. So direct connect the motor and lift your foot of the go pedal
(it's hardly a "gas pedal" in an electric!) to shift gears. It would
take a little getting used to, but should work. Heck, a set of switches
on the shifter so that power couldn't be applied when in neutral (wired
to the controller) would be perfect! That might put some load on the
controller contacts, switching a heavy load off then on suddenly, which
would reduce contact life. So just pull your foot off the pedal, shift,
press. How hard can that be? That would make some regenerative braking
easy, every time you took your foot off and downshifted it would be
there. Hmmm... downshifting would probably need a clutch though, as
there would be "reverse load" on the tranny. So a clutch may be
necessary after all. I doubt synchros would last to long with heavy down
shifting. Maybe a one-way sprag clutch? But that would eliminate
regenerative braking... 
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