Re: [Amc-list] Off with it's head!

["Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

On Thu, 26 Apr 2007, Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

> Driving a rope rear main seal out with welding rod for a stick welder
with
the flux coat removed on a wire wheel.
--------------

Old repair manuals (the TSM for 62??) mention driving it out with a
brass brazing rod, or using the narrow end of a brass punch to push
while turning the crank (in direction of pull) with the rear main cap
off until about 1/2" is out, then pull with pliers while turning. 

To put it in thread a piece of solid copper wire (I've seen #14 electric
wire stripped and used) through the center of the rope and bend over one
end. Thread the wire over the top of the crank then pull through while
you rotate the crank in the direction of pull. Make sure you coat the
rope with oil first. A very thin oil will be better than engine oil --
the rope won't expand as much and the oil will penetrate more. Try trans
fluid (that's a trick I learned from an old time mechanic who's done
more than a few). The real secret is to leave about 1/4" of rope on each
end when you cut the wire. Use a brass punch to pack it back in, then
trim flush. On the lower half trim it so that about 1/16" sticks up
after carefully rolling into the lower cap. The trim the edges back a
little in a taper if possible. You want the lower edges slightly longer
so they will compress in when the cap is put on, but not between the cap
and block. Don't forget the dab of sealant in the corners on those L
shaped rubber seals. 

There used to be a "Chinese handcuff" type cable that threaded over the
crank and was used to pull a rope through, but that stretches the rope
out a good bit. The wire trick pulls from the back end, so the rope is a
bit harder to pull in than with the "Chinese handcuff", but it packs the
area better. 

It's just a bitch to get one to seal if you're not real experienced with
it, even with the crank and block out. My first one sealed great for
about six months, the last one I did for about a year before it started
seeping. Cutting little bits off a seal and packing in the ends sealed
it up for another six months before a noticeable drip. Just realize that
a small drip in the rear rope seal is common after 3-5K miles. If you
can find a neoprene seal the correct diameter you can make a brass or
copper backing shim and side shim to keep it in place. It won't matter
if a little brass or copper rubs against the crank occasionally as long
as oil is present -- no more wear than the bearings. You'll have to cut
the spike in the seal cavity of the block to use a neoprene seal. I
researched a US repair manual and found a couple within a few
thousandths of the correct size, but never pursued a seal replacement.
I'm sure it could be done, and if I even rebuild a 195.6 again I'll
search. Maybe some of the foreign cars will have a two piece seal that
will fit, but most 90s and later cars use one-piece seals and smaller
rear crank hubs. 
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