Re: [Amc-list] Marlin brake failure

[Wayne E LaMothe <superglider@xxxxxxxx>]

The hard pedal sounds like a booster but the dragging sound he heard
makes it sound more like pieces floating in one of the rear drums.  He
did not say what year Marlin but his email addy includes 65marlin so I am
assuming a 65.  If so, they all came with the 4 piston discs up front
which would make the logical choice for a dragging sound to be coming
from the rear drums.  It is all a guess anyway.

 
On Wed, 28 Mar 2007 07:56:33 -0500 "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
> I'm almost in agreement with Wayne. The booster has a spring in it, 
> and
> most likely that failed since it affected the brake pedal and 
> stopping
> power on all four wheels. But you should pull the drums and check 
> them
> again. 
> 
> You can get a replacement booster, or have yours rebuilt. 
> 
> The Ford Galaxie booster mounts similar to the Rambler, and can be
> adapted, but you have to get the brackets, booster, and master 
> cylinder
> kit (I recommend www.mpbrakes.com, order for a 68 Galaxie). The 
> brackets
> should bolt right on, but you may have to alter the pushrod length 
> from
> pedal to bell crank. It's possible the brackets may need to be
> redrilled, but I've made this change before and it bolted right on. 
> I
> did have to use an adapter for one of the brake lines, but it's best 
> to
> replace the line between the MC and junction block. 
> 
> The booster rod that attaches to the bell crank is different on the 
> Ford
> or any newer booster. I modified a 1996 or so Ford Ranger booster to 
> fit
> original Rambler brackets. The brackets were drilled to mount the
> booster and the pushrod was shortened. I welded a grade 5 nut to the 
> end
> of the shortened pushrod to serve as the eye. To prevent melting 
> seals a
> wet towel was wrapped around the pushrod before welding with a MIG.
> Stick welding creates too much heat -- you must use a MIG. I don't 
> think
> there's room for a TIG torch. This is definitely a "try at your own
> risk" proposition! You could get the rod to short or melt a seal. If 
> you
> do try it, test in a safe location before taking it on the road. As 
> you
> now know, if the booster isn't working you still have brakes, but 
> need a
> lot more time and room to stop. Try a couple panic stops with the 
> new
> setup. I got a booster from a pick-n-pull yard for $25, it was 
> worth
> g! I can say that it worked great, and I'm still driving the car
> five years later. The brakes are excellent!
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> 
 
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