Re: [Amc-list] t-tube broke.

["Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

The mount holes holding the torque tube to the transmission ripped out?
Now I've NEVER seen that before! 

1. What bent the panhard rod was the brakes. The axle stopped, the rest
of the car didn't. Same thing going up on the trailer. With the T-Tube
disconnected, there's nothing holding the axle in place except the
panhard rod and shocks. The only bad thing about a T-Tube drive is the
car can't be easily moved with the trans or T-Tube out. I bolted a 2x4
frame on an old rear axle and pushed that under a (junked) car to move
it. I've heard of people tying up the T-Tube then using rope pulled
tight to the front and rear of the axle to move one. If you don't use
rope to the front and rear of the body, you hit a hole/bump with a tire
and the tire stops -- car keeps moving forward until something stops it
(shocks or panhard rod -- which bend -- or brake lines -- which can
break!), or the body "falls off" the springs. 

2. Are you sure the bolts didn't work loose on you though? It was
recently out of the car. If the bolts worked loose that would be the
clunk and vibration you've been feeling. That would make one problem
solved! ;>
Could just be metal fatigue, but I seriously doubt it. Maybe all that
brake testing you've been doing lately. Didn't you say that the front
brakes aren't doing much work? I was jokingly mentioning this, but now I
think it's a serious statement. The T-Tube wasn't designed to take the
stress of doing most of the stopping from the back!! You definitely need
a correctly sized master cylinder. If the bolts weren't loose, that's
most likely the problem -- rear brakes doing way to much work. The
flange could have bent, causing the bolts to get loose. The two --
looses bolts and to much stopping force in the rear -- could have
combined to cause the problem. I'm willing to go out on a limb and say
that's it. 

3. DEFINITELY reinforce the holes on the T-Tube flange now that they
have ripped out. Use GRADED washers -- grade five should be more than
sufficient. There's no telling what kind of steel common washers are
made from -- whatever was cheap and/or on hand most likely. Look closely
at the tube near the flange and you'll see where the flange is welded to
the tube. It could be cut off and another end welded on. You need to get
those brakes fixed first!! 

4. I thought the 62 had the older two-bolt torque tube setup. Sounds
like you have the 63 type. There should be a thick rubber-like pad on
the T-Tube flange between the T-Tube and trans flanges. That must be
there -- the T-Tube flange moves on the T-Tube. There is an inner flange
with the rubber on it that gives as the axle moves up and down. The
older setup had two bolts (one on each side) and a couple heavy springs
(similar to valve springs). You'd have to see it, I guess.


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