Re: [Amc-list] Lowering a Rambler wagon?

["Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

johnny kazek wrote:
I'd like to lower my 60 Rambler wagon a little, few inches at most.
Everything else stock look, just want a little more sleekness. Mine has
regular coil suspension. Don't think I have budget for bags, and don't
trust cutting the old springs I have now.

Should I pursue an aftermarket spring that's compatible and cut that? Or
anyone know of something that's a close fit to this car that may ride
lower but offer about same compression? If anyone knows it'd be you guys

Thanks- Johnny
-----------------------

As Matt said -- change your e-mail setting to send "plain text" to the
list. One can always click on the attachment and sort through the HTML
code to get the message (I did that and reposted above), but most people
won't even look at it. 

You don't want springs of the same softness. For today's roads you need
the equivalent of the heavy duty springs, which were 15-20% stiffer than
the stock springs. Up to about 65 the cars were spring a lot softer
because there were few smooth high speed roads. By "high speed" I mean
areas you could travel more than 50 mph for any length of time. In 1960
there were few places across the country where that was even possible!
Try by-passing a popular stretch of Interstate a few times and you'll
see what I mean -- and THOSE roads are at least 25-30% better than they
were in the late 50s and early 60s!

The high springs in the Ramblers are very roll resistant, that's why the
six cylinder cars used no sway bar and the V-8 bar is relatively small
at 1/2". A stiffer spring will reduce roll more than adding a sway bar. 

You can only lower the car with springs a maximum of 2" (I'd go no more
than 1.5") with springs because of control arm angle and the effect that
has on steering geometry. When you lower by any means you reduce
suspension travel and really need stiffer springs. Even using the front
lowering plates will reduce travel because there's not as much room
under the car. You can get a good 2-3" with front lowering plates
without changing the control arm angles though. Theoretically you're not
reducing suspension travel with front lowering plates, the suspension
can physically travel the same distance as before. The top of the tire
and bottom of the car can hit something sooner though, so you do lose
some travel. 

In the past I have had very good luck lowering up to 1.5" with new
springs. I use Coil Spring Specialties (www.coilspring.com). They will
custom wind a new set of variable rate springs the equivalent of the
single rate original springs. The variable rates are softer at first,
but the rate increases as the spring compresses. This improves both ride
and handling. CSS has the data for the original springs and will figure
out the equivalent replacement for you. You can specify how much stiffer
you want them over stock and the reduction in installed height, or just
order the equivalent of the HD spring for that model at the reduced
installed height. 

Up to 1968 AMC published spring specs in the TSMs. If you don't have a
1960 I can get the spring rate info for you if you're curious. 

Do note that if you're contemplating an engine change, you should take
that into consideration before ordering new springs. Otherwise you may
need more later. You have the aluminum six IIRC, which is a good bit
lighter than the cast iron model. The cast iron 195.6 (OHV or L-head) is
only 100 lbs lighter than a later model V-8, about 150 lbs lighter than
a GEN-1 V-8. IIRC the aluminum 195.6 is ~150 lbs lighter than the cast
iron 195.6, or 250-300 lbs lighter than a V-8. 

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