Re: [AMC-List] carb rebuidl help

[Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>]

Ken,

I would check the fuel pressure before you do anything else.

Matt

Ken Siroonian wrote:
> thanks tom and froank for your comments, i bought another carb kit and
> will give it another go. I thought I cleaned the last one very well,
> just can not figure why it overloads with gas. The fuel pump is the
> original with the car, and i did not know it could over pump in the
> carb. maybe I shoudl just change it. anyway, the float was new too and
> is buoyant and not absorbing fuel. the filter is new. you can not test
> the needle and seat with the carb with the top off as the needle seat
> and float are attached to the top with a small pin. the choke opens
> fine and even when I hold it fully open, the car runs like dog meat,
> and the the tpipe blows lots of black soot. I can even see some fuel
> that comes out the bottom of the carb. onto the base area.
> any more ideas please let me know, i will work on these, regards, ken.
> 
> On December 12, 2006 Tom Jennings wrote:
> 
>> On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Ken Siroonian wrote:
>>
>>> wondering if anyone has a tip on rebuidling a 1 BBL YF CARB FOR A
> 76
>>> PACER. I rebuilt it about 6 months ago due to engine flooding,
>>> overloading with fuel, black soot out of the exhaust, engine oil
> was
>>> getting black fast and oil level higher due to the fuel. I rebuilt
> it
>>> with a new float the black fiber float- just in case. the old one
> I
>>> tested was fine anyway. now it is doing the same thing, albeit it
> has
>>> not been driven more than a few hundred miles in all that time.
> she
>>> uses it rarely, and the choke is coming off ok, but it just won't
> run
>>> right with all that fuel and the belches of black soot/smoke. any
> ideas
>>> what I may or may not be doing right. are the adjustments that
>>> critical, I am following the amc spec book as well as the carb
> rebuild
>>> sheet, and the float level does not seem high or out of whack. I
> have
>>> not pulled the carb off the car yet, just the top. is there an
>>> adjustment I can make on the car and try again before i rebuild it. 
> the
>>> needle and seat looked ok, though I have only done these a few
> times. i
>>> adjusted the idle screw ok as well. does that affect more than just 
> the
>>> park idle. any ideas will be apreciated. regards.
>> Hmm... you have a stock fuel pump? Not an aftermarket or
>> electric pump?
>>
>> And a good clean new quality fuel filter, plumbed before
>> the carb?
>>
>> The choke is off or disconnected, for testing? Turn it 4 -
>> 6 or more notches LEAN, the choke plate should be open. It
>> would be unpleasant to drive it that way in cold weather,
>> but it will help for testing.
>>
>> As a test, with the choke fully open, your foot OFF the throttle,
>> cranking the engine, the carb should stay DRY. It probably
>> won't start, but the carb should NOT get wet inside. If it
>> does, you have somethin wrong in the carb, float stuck, sunk,
>> dirt in the needle and seat, etc.
>>
>>
>> Some crude but simple diagnostic tests:
>>
>> With car OFF! carb assembled and on car. Put clean hose on the
>> carb fuel inlet, blow into it. If the car was cranked previously,
>> the bowl should be full of gas and the needle and seat should
>> be CLOSED. You should NOT be able to blow into it. If you can,
>> or you hear even seeping of your breath into the carb, 3 -
>> 4 psi of fuel will definitely push in there, flooding it.
>>
>> You can even more crudely test the needle and seat by taking the
>> top off the carb, leaving the needle, set, float attached. Blow
>> into the fuel inlet; with the top right side up, air should
>> flow. Turn it upside down, it should stop. If it doesn't do that,
>> fix it.
> 
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-- 
mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
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