AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 32
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 32



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Today's Topics:

   1. Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ (Nick Lenarz)
   2. Question on AC pumps (Don Johnson)
   3. cj 10 (Tirpak Lisa)
   4. Re: Question on AC pumps (Sandwich Maker)
   5. Re: 62 classic project (Sandwich Maker)
   6. Re: Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ (Tom Jennings)
   7. Re: Question on AC pumps (Mark Price)
   8. Re: Question on AC pumps (Tom Jennings)
   9. e-bay items link (Richard Estermyer)
  10. Re: clocks (Larry R. Daum)
  11. Re: e-bay items link (Sandwich Maker)
  12. Re: ebay items links (Eddie Stakes)
  13. Re: AMC vs Ford engine weight. (Archimedes)
  14. Re: 62 classic project (power steering) (farna@xxxxxxx)
  15. ebay car warning (Eddie Stakes)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 05:32:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Nick Lenarz <n9viw@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061116133221.84962.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

   I've been up and down the list looking for clues, but nothing that
sounds like the problem I'm having, so here's my first post to the
group.
   The patient: 1982 Jeep CJ-8 Scrambler, 258 I-6 bored .040 in '98,
fitted with Comp Cams #252h (P/N 68-200-4) and a Cloyes Tru-Roller kit
set to the 3* advanced notches. Intake and exhaust are stock, with a
glasspack and Catco 400CFM cat on the exh. and a recently cleaned and
rebuilt Motorcraft 2100 (1.08 bore with #48 jets, 16" PV) on the int.
Ignition has been converted to a GM HEI module coupled to the stock
Motorcraft distributor and Ford TFI upgrade kit (cap, adapter, plugs,
coil). Bosch Platinums have been gapped to .050.
   The symptoms: Engine won't stay running. It starts fine, but dies
off instantly. I can keep it running if I 'blip' the throttle, but if I
hold it constant, it runs for a few seconds, then dies off quickly.
This occurs at any throttle position/RPM, almost as if it's running out
of gas, but it's as sudden as turning the key off. Changing plug gap
has no effect.
   On the occasions I can get it to idle, it will not run without the
idle mix screws backed out at least 4 turns and the choke mostly
closed. When tuning, it will run at 6-8* BTDC, but acts like it's way
retarded (snapping back into the exhaust manifold). If I tune for best
idle/vac, it runs better, but the timing is off the rack (24*+) and it
dies as soon as I go off-idle.
   I've been told I have a vacuum leak, and the vacuum IS low (max of
16 inHg) but I'm hard-pressed to find one. The manifolds are tight to
the engine, and have Stage 8 locking fasteners on them. The MC2100 is
bolted to the intake with a custom-milled adapter made from 1" thick
billet aluminum. The choke vacuum port in the base of the carb has been
epoxied shut, with a machine screw threaded in for good measure. The
heater plate in the intake is intact, the EGR valve doesn't work but is
definitely closed (checked it by blowing thru the intake port and
pressing on the pintle to open and close the valve). The manifold
vacuum port above the EGR valve has teflon tape on the threads and is
very tight, and has been capped during testing.

Any suggestions are much appreciated, I'm just stumped.

Thanks,
Nick



 
____________________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 11:27:31 -0500
From: Don Johnson <donjohnson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Question on AC pumps
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <00b001c7099c$1ddf2560$6400a8c0@DONS>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

The AC pump on an AMC V8 can obviously be mounted in a number of positions, ie. vertical, horizontal left and right.
Can anyone tell me if the oil quantity needs to be changed if you mount a normally vertical pump in the horizontal position.
Are there any other considerations?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Don


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 08:59:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Tirpak Lisa <lmstirpak@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] cj 10
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061116165921.89888.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

would like to post an ad for a cj 10 w/sd33 nissan diesel on the list-thanx in advace
 
---------------------------------
Sponsored Link

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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 14:36:47 -0500 (EST)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Question on AC pumps
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200611161936.kAGJalM17535@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

" From: Don Johnson <donjohnson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
" 
" The AC pump on an AMC V8 can obviously be mounted in a number of positions, ie. vertical, horizontal left and right.
" Can anyone tell me if the oil quantity needs to be changed if you mount a normally vertical pump in the horizontal position.
" Are there any other considerations?
" Any help would be appreciated.

i can't answer your oil question, but - why are you sticking with the
york compressor?  a modern sanden is much more compact and efficient,
and takes only about 1/3 the hp to work.

they've been used with both r12 and r134.

you can get the brackets from a late grand wag 360.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 14:40:10 -0500 (EST)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 62 classic project
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200611161940.kAGJeAR17601@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

" From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
" 
" i am wanting to put power steering in my 62 classic. anybody know what power steering box would be closest to bolting up to the original steering box mounts? 

a saginaw 605 from a chevy vega should bolt right on to the manual box
pattern.  if you can score one of the infamous ps adapter plates, any
garden variety saginaw 700-series will bolt on.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 14:08:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0611161355170.13535@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Thu, 16 Nov 2006, Nick Lenarz wrote:

>    The symptoms: Engine won't stay running. It starts fine, but dies
> off instantly. I can keep it running if I 'blip' the throttle, but if I
> hold it constant, it runs for a few seconds, then dies off quickly.
> This occurs at any throttle position/RPM, almost as if it's running out
> of gas, but it's as sudden as turning the key off. Changing plug gap
> has no effect.

So what thin happened to start this problem? Did it progressively
get worse, or happen all of a sudden? Carb or ignition rebuild?

If it stays running indefinitely blipping the throttle, it's
almost certainly a carb issue.

If it won't idle, it will be hard to verify the ignition timing,
but if you can blip it to keep it running long enough to see
spark timing with a timing light, with the vacuum hose off you
should see 6-8 BTDC (idle) up to around 25 BTDC (plus or minus
10, depending on your distrib, etc) but mainly it should not
be hopping wildly, just varying with RPM.

But it sure sounds like you have no gas to the idle, low and high
speed circuits in the carb -- all fed by the float bowl. The
accellerator pump gets fed from the very bottom of the bowl,
so it works when the rest of the carb is totally FU.

It's not dying from grossly rich, right? I know "blipping"
the throttle indicates the opposite, but the revs might be
clearing it.  No stinky smoke? Plugs wet and smelly, or white?
Sounds like it's not this, but it's an easy check.

I'd triple-check the float setting. Sticking needle and
seat? Spring/pin/tab falling in the way when you assemble it?
Float rubbing on something, preventing it from dropping?
If float-drop setting is not right, it could bind.

>    On the occasions I can get it to idle, it will not run without the
> idle mix screws backed out at least 4 turns and the choke mostly
> closed. When tuning, it will run at 6-8* BTDC, but acts like it's way
> retarded (snapping back into the exhaust manifold). If I tune for best
> idle/vac, it runs better, but the timing is off the rack (24*+) and it
> dies as soon as I go off-idle.

All of these things indicate wildly too lean. Super lean mixtures
need lots of advance to make any power.

My money is on the carb.


------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 14:15:19 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Question on AC pumps
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <13384069.1163715319255.JavaMail.root@web37>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

You forgot to mention how noisy they are and vibration issues with the York!
Save Yorks for restorations! Other wise don't bother with an old likely worn out probably leaky compressor!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> " From: Don Johnson <donjohnson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> " 
> " The AC pump on an AMC V8 can obviously be mounted in a number of positions, ie. vertical, horizontal left and right.
> " Can anyone tell me if the oil quantity needs to be changed if you mount a normally vertical pump in the horizontal position.
> " Are there any other considerations?
> " Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> i can't answer your oil question, but - why are you sticking with the
> york compressor?  a modern sanden is much more compact and efficient,
> and takes only about 1/3 the hp to work.
> 
> they've been used with both r12 and r134.
> 
> you can get the brackets from a late grand wag 360.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
> internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 14:28:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Question on AC pumps
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0611161426070.13535@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Thu, 16 Nov 2006, Mark Price wrote:

> You forgot to mention how noisy they are and vibration issues with the York!
> Save Yorks for restorations! Other wise don't bother with an old likely worn out probably leaky compressor!

Yeah, and as RPM goes up, efficiency drops. They are relatively
efficient at very low speeds, making decent cold at at idle,
and overheating the car!

There's nothing good about the York type compressors. The little
Sanden type (7 or so pistons, wobbler plate) beat 'em every time.



------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 17:34:49 -0500
From: "Richard Estermyer" <javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] e-bay items link
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY106-F19042A5D2C6968C40B72A0DDE90@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Sorry I forgot to make it simple for all.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=003&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=130046629568&rd=1,1

Richard

Richard Estermyer
PhotoGraphics
6235 S. Mohawk Avenue
Ypsilanti, MI 48197

734.483.5138
734.417.9456 cell
javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxx

_________________________________________________________________
Stay up-to-date with your friends through the Windows Live Spaces friends 
list. 
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&mk



------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 14:37:28 -0800
From: "Larry R. Daum" <mramc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] clocks
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <6.2.0.14.0.20061116143423.00bb7490@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

RE: clocks

Now that the chrome question is settled , has any one had the clocks on 
there AMC rebuilt lately. I had an AMX clock redone about 20 years ago by 
the Clock Doctor, now out of business and I've been looking around for some 
one else who does rebuilds with newer quartz movements in the old clocks. 
Any one dealt with this lately. Larry R. Daum mramc@xxxxxxxxxxx




------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 17:51:57 -0500 (EST)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] e-bay items link
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200611162251.kAGMpvg20076@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

" From: "Richard Estermyer" <javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxx>
" 
" Sorry I forgot to make it simple for all.
" 
" http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=003&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=130046629568&rd=1,1


even simpler:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130046629568
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought


------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 18:54:48 -0600
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] ebay items links
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <02a001c709e3$01adebf0$e8f3b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

I mentioned to Richard earlier how to put up a simple ebay main link. This 
includes all his auctions at any given time. Today, a year from now or Y3K. 
This gose for others who might sell stuff on ebay I guess. First, here is 
Richard's "short link" to all his items:
http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZjavelinman74

Next, for those of you who might have multiple items for sale on ebay, here 
is how to find your main short link, whihc usually won't get broken up by 
servers.

Click on one of your items for sale.

Then click on "view sellers other items"

The link that appears will be your main short link you use over and over, 
simply copy and paste it up whenever you have one or more auctions up, as 
chances are someone might look at one thing you see and decide what the hey, 
pick up something else. Good luck,
Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
Email is currently HEAVY
5-12 day reply times, call if important 



------------------------------

Message: 13
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 19:53:42 -0500
From: Archimedes <Freedom@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] AMC vs Ford engine weight.
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.1.20061116195032.00c50628@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


At 03:40 AM 11/16/2006 +0000, Andy Hay wrote:

>i also note they say a 199 weighs 500 lbs.


And to think that in 1979, I was foolish enough to lift one off of a 
workbench and walk it twenty feet into the shed.  Yes, by myself.  And no, 
I can't remember how I got it to the floor, but I didn't drop it.

No wonder I have back trouble now.

-- Marc Montoni



------------------------------

Message: 14
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 03:18:19 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 62 classic project (power steering)
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
Cc: das24rules@xxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<111720060318.29614.455D29FA000D1B59000073AE21587667550E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
	

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2006 16:24:26 -0800 (PST)
From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>

i am wanting to put power steering in my 62 classic. anybody know what power 
steering box would be closest to bolting up to the original steering box mounts? 

-----------------

None, really. Pre 65 Ramblers used a Moraine "cross ram" type power steering. There was a hydraulic ram (cylinder) that replaced the drag link. It had a "motion sensing" valve where the pitman arm of a standard steering box attached to the cylinder body. The shaft of the cylinder attached to a bracket on the opposite "frame" rail. 

But there is a simpler way! I mounted a standard GM power steering box (from an 80 Concord) to my 63 Classic. Only the bottom hole of a three hole mount GM power steering box will fit the existing steering box holes. I drilled the other two. The highest mounting hole was actually above the "frame" rail. I just used a piece of steel tubing as a spacer between the steering box and inner fender well. The tubing and hole were right against the top of the rail. Not sure but suspect it would be about the same location on the 62. 

The real task is mounting the steering shaft. 62-64 Ramblers have a long shaft from the steering box to the steering wheel -- one continuous shaft. To keep the original steering column the shaft must be cut off and ground to fit the rubber coupling from the donor steering shaft (it can be a Concord or any GM steering box). These usually have a 5/8" (or 3/4") shaft with one or two flats ground on it. If the Rambler steering shaft is the same diameter, grind the flats to match after cutting to the correct length. Remember, the shaft attaches to the steering wheel and shaft length determines how much space is between the column and wheel. Check shaft length WITH THE WHEEL ATTACHED AND BOLTED DOWN TIGHT. A little to much length is better than not enough! The coupleing should allow you 1/8"-1/4" of play to work with though. 

Of course you can always use this as an excuse to change to a later model steering column. That's a whole 'nother can 'o worms though!! 

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)


------------------------------

Message: 15
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 21:29:31 -0600
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] ebay car warning
To: <baadassgremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <005201c709fa$b912cec0$e8f3b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

WARNING!!!Hey Eddie, Pass this on. There is a 73 401 AMX on ebay that was 
under auction number 330050584476 and is now under auction number 
330050724895. The seller of this car is not being honest in his listing or 
his answers to questions that have been posted. The seller was made ""VERY"" 
aware of what this car is with no response or change to his listing. This 
car was located in the Wisconsin area and was viewed by me and the late 
Steve Schall as a possible car to buy. Since this seller has not (and most 
likely will not) post the issues with this car to his add. I will do it for 
him here. Here is a list of what we found with this car up on viewing it. 
Engine IS a 360 not 401, current engine (360)is blown. Floors,trunk, 
rockers, outer and inner wheel housing, trunk drops, quarters are rotted. 
Top of fenders are on the way out. Troughs are wasted. Sub-frame has rust 
issues where floor pans are attached, etc.... rotted, both door glass & 
quarter glass broken out. No door tag. Lower door panels have speaker holes 
cut into them (you get the idea). Hopefully no one has purchased this car by 
the time this gets out. And if it has been sold by the time this is put on 
here, Pass the info on and hopefully the buyer sees this. If you are looking 
to purchase this car... I would be VERY CAREFUL!!! ASK ANY AND ALL QUESTIONS 
and by all means GET PICTURES (if seller is willing to do so...) of all the 
above. IF there are any of you AMC guys in IL that can get to this car and 
view it (seller has posted a ph# and already gave a guy in Aurora IL a go to 
have a look) see if you can get some pictures of the above. Bottom line is 
this. IF you feel that a Title, vin tag and 401 fender emblem (and some 
other parts)are worth the asking price... go ahead and buy it. If you are 
looking to buy this car for a resto project... Look at the list above and 
then take a look at the restoration link here on Eddie's page to get a good 
idea of what you will be facing. Cheers and good luck to all. Bob in Madison 
WI
===============================
I know nothing about the above, however found this posted on my site and am 
only passing it on.
Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
Email is currently HEAVY
5-12 day reply times, call if important 



------------------------------

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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 32
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