Re: [AMC-List] combination valve

["Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

A: Are the wheel cylinders new? If so, they may have been switch for ones 
for something else, which are slightly larger diameter. I went with Eagle 
cylinders on my MJ which gave me better stopping power than the stock ones, 
but I can lockup the rear easier. (I removed the load level sensor when I 
did a SOA lift in the back. I plan to install a universal valve to adjust it 
later when my wife will be driving it, AFTER the auto conversion I should be 
out working on now! Just a little chilled today with tonsillitis AGAIN!)
  The stock valve can be a push or pull to reset, but the brake light 
inside should come on to tell you it's stuck unless the valve has been 
tampered with. Many Jeep owners take the valve apart when it jams and remove 
the Orings altogether, then reassemble it. I prefer the universal adjustable 
valve.
  Are the rear drums new? HD brake shoes? Ebrake adjusted correctly? Shoes 
adjusted correctly? If there is "slop" in the shoe adjustment, then 
sometimes they will grab (pedal will be lower than normal) Oil weeping from 
an axle seal or wheel cylinder? Did you maybe put 2 short shoes on one side? 
(that'll do it every time! Found that out when I did an emergency repair 
after losing a tire)


From: Wayne E LaMothe <superglider@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] combination valve
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061108.120537.1292.0.superglider@xxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I am trying to trace a problem in the brakes on my 83 Eagle.  I
am
getting premature (very) rear wheel lockup when braking.
EVERYTHING but
the combo valve is new.  My questions are these:

1.  Is this a bendix or kelsey hayes valve?

2.  Is there a centering pin?  There seems to be but it does not
move so
I think it is sending all the braking to the rear wheels.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

Thanks
Wayne

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