Re: [AMC-List] my 62 classic project (rear suspension for torque tube car)

["Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Dave, yours is the kind of project I'd like to be working with, or at
least "supervising". I don't mean actually looking over someone's
shoulder, but like a 2.3L Pinto engine in a 54 Rambler I helped with
years ago. I went over and the owner and I talked about a few things,
and I pointed a few things out, then he called me a month later with a
few snags, we discussed on the phone, and I dropped by for a couple
hours the next weekend. Only went over there three times, talked on the
phone four or five. He did all the work. Wish I'd taken pictures!! Now
for some of your specific problems:

1. 304 V-8. Believe it or not, those things are hard to find, and
getting hard to find things like pistons for! My advice would be to go
with a 360 because they are easiest to find. You may not need or want
that much power, but a stock 2V 360 will have what a mildly warmed up
304 would have. Keep the hood closed until you roast the tires or blow
someone away, THEN lift it and show a bone stock 2V 360! That 62 Classic
is lighter than it looks, and the carb will be hidden by the air filter
housing anyway. For more of a stealth look, grind all the extra fittings
and casting numbers off the iron intake, sill in extra holes with JB
Weld, and paint it with aluminum paint. I've seen that done before,
makes people really wonder what's in there.

2. Check out http://www.hotrodstohell.net/truckarm/truckarm_index.htm.
That will be the best overall (ease of build/install along with good
handling/ride) rear suspension. HTHT uses I beams for the arms, which
are two pieces of channel back to back. I'd use a piece of 1.5"x3" 11
gauge (roughly 1/8") sidewall rectangular tubing for each arm. Look at
the G-body kit. That would be the easiest to adapt to your Rambler if
you prefer a kit (also look at the "Shoe Box" - 55-57 Chevy -- kit for
photos of one installed on a frame, much better idea of how it's
installed). The G-body has the springs mounted on top of the axle like
the Rambler. The G-body kit isn't listed, but all others are $1995 -- a
bit steep, with a triangulated kit from TCI running under $400. You can
buy the arms only for $220 each, and a lot of other components. I didn't
see anything that can't be made with a hack saw, welder, and ingenuity
-- and a lot less $$$ for your labor vs. theirs. Any 4x4 shop will have
the rear axle saddles. I'll be looking for someone with a car and wants
one of these after I get settled in SC (will be a couple years from
now!) who will pay for materials only so I can build one as a pattern
for making more. Depending on how you install the trans, you may need to
make a crossmember anyway. As long as the crossmember is near the end of
the trans, and the pivots for the arms are at or behind the universal
joint pivot point, you can make one for the arms and trans together. I'd
mount the engine using the existing side mounts and make a combo
crossmember myself. The front crossmember on the 62 will support the
engine, just weld on perches to match the engine mounts. The crossmember
can even be past the end of the trans with an "extension" going forward.
A couple pieces of angle iron or a piece of channel will make a make
crossmember. Since the rails run bumper to bumper on that body, make a
1.5"x6" or so plate from 1/8" steel to go under the carpet with a pair
of bolts running down through the rail tack welded to the plate (to
prevent turning). Carriage bolts would be nice -- 1/2" because they are
grade 3 or ungraded -- you need grade 5 to use 3/8". The rounded heads
won't "bump" under the carpet much. The RACE (company name) adjustable
ladder bar kit is the next beast and easiest to install. It runs $260
from Summit, and you can modify the existing panhard rod and mount
provided it's the same as the 63 mount (axle end bolts on to one of the
truss rod mounts). You may be able to use a diagonal bar instead of a
panhard rod or triangulated four link. This mounts one end of a bar on
the axle end of a lower link, the other end on the opposite chassis end
of a lower link. This works link with parallel four link or the ladder
bars.

3. I've sent a simplified line drawing of the truck arm suspension to
your account. It has the springs mounted on the arms, but shold clear
anything up the HRTH photos don't show. 

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