AMC-List Digest, Vol 5, Issue 43

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: backfire through carb (Tom Jennings)
   2. Re: 65 American speedo (Frank Swygert)
   3. Re: 65 American speedo (Tom Jennings)
   4. Re: 6 manifold gasket question (Glen Hoag)


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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 22:16:44 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] backfire through carb
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1150867004.5747.57.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain

No suggestions on the backfire? I think I'm wrong on it being through
the carb, it just "sounds like it" while driving. I'll pull the air
filter (annoyin Weber clips) this weekend to make sure it's not in the
carb. Could be I suppose.

If it were through-carb backfire, on WOT/2000rpm, that would only be too
much advance, right? So it would be firing before the intake fully
closes? 

Through more test driving I realized it backfires a lot of the time,
always wide open throttle under relatively low-speed, high-load
conditions.

I'll re-check timing this weekend, but I know the total was 40 or so,
and that mech and vacc advances were at least working.



On Mon, 2006-06-19 at 20:34 -0700, Tom Jennings wrote:
> I just (Sat.) got back from a trip to Santa Fe (RT from Los Angeles).
> Car ran great, got 20mpg, rarely drove under 70 (rarely over 75). About
> 2000 miles in a week. Half way, had to retard the spark about 3 degrees
> to take the cheap indian res 86-octane gas.
> 
> But today, though otherwise running good, I have a nasty backfire, at
> low car speed/wide-open-throttle, typical "bog" territory; take off from
> a traffic light up a mild hill, heavy load, WOT at about 1600 rpm (auto
> trans), lots of backfire. Back off throttle, accellerates fine; WOT,
> backfires. Once RPM is up, it doesn't.
> 
> Carb is a Weber 32/36DGEV on a 258; 904 auto trans, 2.73 axle, stock
> tires.
> 
> What causes backfire under this condition? I'd think timing, except that
> I just adjusted it very closely, checked vacuum and mechanical advance.
> Since I did the road adjustment I can't tell you precisely what static
> is; I had it about 7btdc static, it's probably no about 4btdc.
> 
> Could it be not enough accell pump squirt? The pump lever on this carb
> had a deep groove from wear (I bought it used). I filed it all flat and
> readjusted, but the pump diaphragm could be leaking (again).
> 
> (I also have a high rpm burble, wide open throttle also, say 3400+ rpm
> at 70 mph, that I think is from leaning out, either jetting or
> inadequate fuel pump. It's not strictly RPM, but total fuel demand high
> speed and WOT.)
> _______________________________________________
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> or go to http://www.amc-list.com


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 01:49:47 -0400
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 65 American speedo
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<ADVANCES62ZbLAX3cf3000000e7@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain

The older cars have more room underneath, so I guess BW just mounted
the speedo take-off high to keep the cable up under the car. When the
body was lowered a bit over the trans for the 63 Classic/Ambo and 64
American, it would be difficult to get to the speedo cable without
dropping the trans. It's only 2-3" difference, but that's enough in
tight quarters! I'd have thought the gears would have been cut to turn
the speedo in the same direction, but they turn opposite. I guess it
was easier just to specify the opposite rotation when ordering the new
speedo clusters. 

On June 20, 2006 Tom Jennings wrote:

> On Tue, 2006-06-20 at 07:23 -0700, Mark Price wrote:
> > NOW, that's something id did not know, not that there is a lot I
don't know! I never knew there was a high and low mounted speedo
tailshaft on the Borg trans!
> 
> Wow -- likewise. I assume there's some sense to when they are
mounted
> high vs. low?
> 
> 


=============================================================
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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2006 23:09:27 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 65 American speedo
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1150870167.5747.68.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain

On Wed, 2006-06-21 at 01:49 -0400, Frank Swygert wrote:

> I'd have thought the gears would have been cut to turn
> the speedo in the same direction, but they turn opposite. I guess it
> was easier just to specify the opposite rotation when ordering the new
> speedo clusters. 

That's not possible -- the physics of the thing require that for the cup
and pointer to go clockwise [looking from the driver's seat], that the
cable turn clockwise.  Therefore, cable rotation must be constant.

This can be done by flipping the direction of the teeth on the tailshaft
worm gear. One direction for driven-gear-under, the other for
driven-gear-over. 

I still predict that the speedo needle smacking 0/120/0/120 is the most
ordinary reason, kinked housing. I'll bet you a virtual beer :-)

tomj


> 
> On June 20, 2006 Tom Jennings wrote:
> 
> > On Tue, 2006-06-20 at 07:23 -0700, Mark Price wrote:
> > > NOW, that's something id did not know, not that there is a lot I
> don't know! I never knew there was a high and low mounted speedo
> tailshaft on the Borg trans!
> > 
> > Wow -- likewise. I assume there's some sense to when they are
> mounted
> > high vs. low?
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> =============================================================
> Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2006 02:16:39 -0500
From: Glen Hoag <hoag@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 6 manifold gasket question
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <a06230910c0bea20138ac@[192.168.123.144]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

IIRC, the FelPro set also includes a gasket that goes between the 
intake and exhaust manifolds, so you have to remove the four studs 
and separate the manifolds to install it.

>
>I use the two-piece sets, and have had no problems with long-term leaks,
>loosening, etc. To do the job right means you have to loosen the four
>bolts (studs) that bolt the intake to the exhaust manifolds. Of course
>on old engines they like to break, especially the top ones near the
>center exhaust ports.
>
>The sandwiched perf metal one goes on the head, I think smoothest side
>to the block, perfs out. It will (barely) stay on the locating dowels as
>you assemble. The blue one goes on top (towards manifold). It ought to
>be marked, but I'm fairly sure it's symmetrical. The loop in the middle
>of the blue intake gasket goes up. I had one once that needed to be
>clipped slightly to not be pinched by the manifold against the block.
>
>The reason for loosening the two manifold halves is of course that the
>intake gasket (two gaskets) is thicker than the exhaust (one gasket).
>Just snug (inch/lbs by hand) the manifolds up to the block (the gaskets
>will want to slip down as you assemble them) before re-tightenin the
>manifold halfs.
>
>I always recheck torque after getting it hot for a day or so, but it
>seems to be  a waste of tim ewith these new gaskets.
>

-- 
Glen Hoag                               '75 Pacer 258 (x3)
hoag@xxxxxx                             '76 Pacer 258 (for parts)
Limestone County, Alabama               '77 Pacer 258 (for kids)
                                         '80 Pacer 258 DL wagon
                                         '81 Concord DL 258
AMO #7895    AMCPC #471                 '82 Spirit 151


------------------------------

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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 5, Issue 43
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