[AMC-List] my 62 classic project

[<francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Dave, the trunnion kits for your car shouldn't be that high. You're
looking at 64+ American/Javelin/AMX trunnions. Yours are very different
from those. They don't cost as much -- Galvin's has them listed for $91
each without the thrust bearing. Take the thrust bearing to any bearing
supply and they can match a similar replacement. The industrial
replacement won't be sealed, but the grease will keep water and most
dirt out. The non-sealed bearing probably wouldn't last 40 years in
normal traffic, but should last that long with occasional driving, 10-20
years every day driving. The originals can often be cleaned in solvent
then reused. 

I'm reasonably certain that the poly bushings for 64-69 big cars will
fit the 62. The lower control arm bushing should be the same as an AMX.
But I wouldn't recommend poly bushings if this is going to mainly be a
cruiser. The car will ride harsher. I use poly bushings only on the sway
bar. You especially don't want poly bushings on the strut rod. Every pot
hole can be felt through the floor (tried that!). If this is going to be
a road racer it would probably be worth the sacrifice. It won't hurt for
the front end to be a little more compliant than the rear. 

I'm not sure about the strength of the Jeep T-5. Should be a standard
T-5, nothing special. That means it's as strong as a non-world class
Mustang T-5, and should hold up under a mild 304 as long as you aren't
banging the gears to hard. Down-shifting puts more strain on the trans
than up-shifts, by the way. Be a little careful on down-shifting,
especially into first and second. Your car should weigh a bit less than
an 80s Mustang, around the same at the most. There are a couple T-5
sites that have specs, a search should turn some up. 

On my hotrodders.com site there are pics of two different light blue 63
Classic wagons. The one the got hit is the one without the flames. It
also has different wheels than the flamed one. Other than wheels,
flames, Jag axle, and T-bird rack and pinion steering, the two cars are
the same. I salvaged the engine, trans, interior, and all underhood
components from the wrecked car. That Jag axle cost me $100 at a salvage
yard, complete. Then it took $800 to replace the rotors, one caliper
(one was rusted tight, the other got a $20 rebuild kit), all seals,
outers hub bearings, and the gear set. The gears were the big part --
$150 for a used set of 3.55 gear (on a limited slip carrier, but they
make a little noise!), and $150 for a shop to properly set the gear
lash. I didn't want to risk messing anything up there! So I basically
had to rebuild the thing, though all the bushings, differential
bearings, and u-joints were good. I had to pay a machine shop $75 to
press the bearings on the hubs too, but that's included in the $800.
Since I got nice rear discs, I figure the independent rear was worth it.
I'd have had $600 in a rear axle with the right gears, disc brakes, and
a four link setup anyway -- even using springs in the stock location
(you can still do that, by the way, instead of coil overs if you haven't
bought them yet). 

Enlisted military married income isn't much better, but then I'm an E-7
w/23 years in. Of course pay will be cut by 2/3 in a year when I retire
from service. I hope to get enough shop work I don't have to work
anywhere else, but will likely get at least a part time job for a couple
years. 


--------------------------
Date: Monday, June 12, 2006 09:22 AM
From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx> 
where would i be able to find poly bushings for the front of my 62
classic? i
have found the rubber ones. also, is there anywhere that has trunnion
kits for
less than 130-150 EACH?? will amx a arm bushings work for my a arms? or
are
they different? maybe some of you have been following my plans on the
suspension. if i go with rubber bushings, i feel i will be defeting some
of my
purpose. the triangulated rearend kit i got is poly.
  on another subject, does anyone know how strong the t-5's that came in
the
jeep cj's are? will they stand going behind a 304 with mild usual bolt
ons. if
not, gears and rebuild kits from say a mustang should fit right in
right?? i
like where the shifter is positioned on the jeep t5. i can retain my
bench
seats.

  frank, i stumbled on your bright blue wagon pics on hotrodders.com. it
is
beautiful. is that the same one in all the pics with the flames that got
totaled? i didnt see any flames on the one that got wrecked. i found
your
article on putting jag rearend in also. i need to stop stumbling across
your
stuff.... your making me contemplate things.... hehe. did that jag rear
ride
well back there? i have thought about a hiedts rear but i cant drop that
kinda
green. enlisted military single income... sucks.    anyway. all take
care and
have good day.


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