AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 61
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 61
- From: amc-list-request@xxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 04:23:39 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. my 62 classic project (d stohler)
2. Fw: Bolton Landing AMC Meet and Greet-POSTPONED (Wayne E LaMothe)
3. Re: my 62 classic project (James Shadwick)
4. Water Pump (Armand Eshleman)
5. Restoring Aluminum Headlight Covers (Keith Kubiak)
6. cleaning out garage, so Parts, Parts and more Parts for sale
(Dan Curtis)
7. Re: Water Pump 1974 AMX Javelin (getting the right pump...)
(francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
8. Re: rear end leaking.... (francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
9. Re: Restoring Aluminum Headlight Covers
(francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
10. 15 gallon fuel cell $100 (Eddie Stakes)
11. 290V8 & AT for sale $200 (Eddie Stakes)
12. Fw: copper gasket availability question (Eddie Stakes)
13. mark donohue reunion (Eddie Stakes)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 06:33:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] my 62 classic project
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060529133328.20613.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
hope everyone is having a good memorial day weekend.
doc, thanks for the comments. nice to hear there are people who suport us.
ok, now to my question for the day....
i have been told its an amc model 15 axle i have in my 62 classic. i have been searching but not finding any parts or anything for the 15. i am not familiar with the amc model 20 rearend. i have been told that the 15 will hold up with the 304 if i dont do hard driving. i know my diff is open right now. i would like to go with a limited slip in it. also, am i correct in remembering that the axle shafts on the 15 are full floating and have a woodruff key in them instead of being splined or one piece with the hub? i guess what im wanting to know is if parts like diff, gears and axle shafts from a model 20 would work in my 15 housing. if no luck there, then i supose i would be able to lincolin lock it untill i locate a proper width amc 20 and have it built and ready to stuff under it. as always, thanks in advance for any advice/info.
dave stohler
camp taji iraq
---------------------------------
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------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 10:32:24 -0400
From: Wayne E LaMothe <superglider@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Fw: Bolton Landing AMC Meet and Greet-POSTPONED
To: marksamc401@xxxxxxx, cci@xxxxxxxxxxxx, cerniglia@xxxxxxxxxx,
rwaite@xxxxxxxxxxxx, amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx, FSJ-List@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060529.103225.1108.1.superglider@xxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Due to health issues with my wife I am forced to postpone the Meet and
Greet. I will post a new date in the future.
Thanks
Wayne
1st Annual?
AMC Meet & Greet
3 June 2006
Noon to 5pm
Get that AMC out of the garage and take a scenic drive to Bolton Landing
NY. There will be an informal Meet & Greet at my house to kick off the
summer cruising season. Feel free to stay an hour or the whole afternoon
and share tales of woe and triumph regarding keeping these special cars
going. This is a chance to get to know other people in the area who can
help or need help with their cars. I will have a pot of chili ready and
you bring whatever else you want in your picnic basket. There is plenty
of room in the field next to my house and the garage will be open in case
you have a minor glitch getting here. If weather permits and the mood
prevails we may cruise to Papa?s ice cream in Lake Luzerne at 5pm.
Directions: Exit 24 of the Adirondack Northway, east on County Route 11
for 2.5 miles to the top of the mountain, right on Valley Woods Road and
we are the second house on the left. I will have some of my cars parked
in the field as a landmark.
Hope to see any one with an AMC. There may be some Essex/Terraplane folks
too but they will be relegated to the spot next to the barn (haha)
If you plan on coming, try to let me know so I have an idea of how much
chili to make. If you decide to come at the last minute please do so as I
am sure there will be enough chili to go around.
Hope to see ya there. Forward this to anyone you know with an AMC!!!
Wayne and Lisa LaMothe
704 Valley Woods Rd
Bolton Landing, NY
518.644.2567
superglider(at)juno.com
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 07:47:15 -0600
From: "James Shadwick" <idahoamx@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] my 62 classic project
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060529133930.M99889@xxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
On Mon, 29 May 2006 06:33:28 -0700 (PDT), d stohler wrote
> hope everyone is having a good memorial day weekend.
>
Dave...
You can use gear sets....limited slips and lockers from a non c-clip
dana 35.....look on Jeep sites....Jeep Cherokee's use D35's
I have a locker listed for a dana 35 in the AMC 15 in my 81 Spirit...
works great....
Jim Shadwick
AG1 USN
Retired
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 10:52:09 -0500
From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Water Pump
To: <moby43@xxxxxxxxx>, <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <001701c68337$d8285680$6601a8c0@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Not sure if anyone has responded to your question, but if I remember
correctly there are basically two different water pumps for V-8 AMC engines.
The year is important when ordering because the offsets for accessory drives
changed. I believe that is your problem. I'm not much of an I-6 guy, so not
sure what would be wrong there. Check the tag on the passenger side valve
cover and do a search to determine which year engine you have if it's not
the original.
And please if my recollection is incorrect somebody tell me !
Armand
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 09:23:58 -0700
From: "Keith Kubiak" <55fordf100@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Restoring Aluminum Headlight Covers
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <006b01c6833c$4a0006f0$6401a8c0@home1>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I am currently restoring my 65 Marlin. The headlight covers are dull but in otherwise good shape. I did some sanding, buffng and polishing on one and was able to get a nice shine to the metal. Are these headlight covers anodized? It was very difficult to get the initial dull surface buffed off. What is recommended for restoring these to a good shine? Should I buff and polish them and then use an aluminum polish/wax? Or should I take them to a shop for anodizing?
Keith K
San Diego CA.
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 10:26:12 -0700
From: "Dan Curtis" <d.curtis@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] cleaning out garage, so Parts, Parts and more
Parts for sale
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <000d01c68344$fb8cc7c0$0400a8c0@D14DCP61>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
I am finally going through my garage and identifying all the spare parts
that I have and will likely never use. I will load them up on ophoto.com
and post the viewing invite URL on the AMC-List before heading out to eBay
so that members of the list get first dibs if anyone is interested. In
short, I have various parts for AMXs and Javelins including:
- 4 barrel intakes of various configurations including a very nice R4B
- 3 sets of 201C heads
- 3 T-10 four speed transmissions
- 4 barrel carbs of all sorts including original, freshly rebuilt 69 390
working carbs,
- bumpers and rear bumperetts
- exhaust manifolds and smog pieces for various years
- headers for both style heads,
- window glass
- interior trim pieces of all sorts,
- tail light housing and lenses
- distributors of all makes and configurations
- air cleaners and heat stacks
- NOS low 8.5:1 401 compression pistons
- 75 360 with fresh 291C heads, bearings, timing chain, cam, lifters, freeze
plugs, full clutch plus optional R4B intake
- window crank handles
- stock cams
- stock lifters
- stock pushrods
- after market pushrods
- NOS 69-390 service block, decked .030, head bolt holes drilled and tapped
for 1/2 head bolts for later model heads
- NOS 8.5:1 401 compression pistons (would work great with above block for a
9.8:1 compression ratio motor)
- open 3:54 rear end, drum to drum
- a ton of other stuff that I can't think of right now
I also have a Very Nice set of 4 Jeep polished aluminum wheels (15 x 7) that
are the 5 spoke design with tires (235-75R-15) with 60-70% tread remaining
that would look terrific on any 1984- 1998 Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, Jeep
truck or Jeep Scrambler or earlier CJ.
I am not going looking to sell ridiculously cheap nor am I looking to make a
killing on anything so if you are interested in any of the above, make a
reasonable offer and let's see if we can make it work before I post it up on
eBay.
If anyone is interested in the NOS 69 390 service block, I will package it
with the NOS 401 pistons, NOS roller timing chain, stock distributor, stock
lifters, cam and pushrods, 291C heads with fresh valve job, either dogleg
headers or stock high flow exhaust manifolds, oil pan and pickup, R4B or
performer intake and either a freshly rebuilt 600 Holley or a fresh rebuilt
69 stock AFB 4 barrel all for $1800. Just add your crankshaft and
connecting rods, front cover and oil pump assembly, harmonic balancer, water
pump and then assemble it yourself or get a machine shop to assemble it for
you and you are ready to go.
If you do not have all of those other parts, I can put together a complete
unassembled motor package with the NOS block and pistons including
everything from carb to oil pan for $3000. I think I even have NOS main and
rod bearings and a complete gasket set. If you prefer, I can also have it
assembled by a machine shop and whatever they charge will be your cost
although I like to work with someone I know or a local shop in case
something happens so unless you are in the Phoenix area you may want to use
your own machine shop.
I am not into the BS of charging someone a "handling charge" and will send
copies of all receipts for labor and materials and shipping so my cost is
your cost. Also, if your car is a 4 speed, I will throw in a freshly turned
flywheel that I am not going to use that has slight heat cracks at no
charge.
For those wondering how much it cost to ship heavy stuff cross country, I
just had Roadway Express ship 1300 pounds for me from their terminal in Avon
Mass to their terminal in South Phoenix for about 70 cents a pound which
included insurance. It took 6 days and the toughest part was building the
crates (about $50 in lumber, screws and nails - thank god for air gun
nailers!) and getting them over to Roadway for shipping. Thankfully we had
an electric hoist and a big Ram V-10 pickup truck at the location where we
made the crates so loading up was not much of an issue. It was a little
more challenging on my end with my little single axle 4' x 8' trailer behind
my 6 cylinder Explorer but they loaded everything up with a fork lift and
all worked out OK other than making the tires on my trailer look like they
were half flat!
Regards,
Dan Curtis
d.curtis@xxxxxxx
602-317-2018
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 03:24:15 -0000
From: <francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Water Pump 1974 AMX Javelin (getting the right
pump...)
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<8B4C911BEBA5E24888E353FF362B9E7702E65F5A@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Yes, that's what they are doing, collapsing catalogs into one size fits
as many as possible. They know the castings are the same for all AMC
V-8s or sixes for the most part, so they collapse the part numbers to as
few as possible. That way they can stock one pump that you might have to
change a hose location or something on, but it will otherwise work fine.
In their zeal to stock as few parts as possible, they overdo it though.
The people collapsing the numbers don't have access to the real parts,
they just do a little (to little) "research". There were at least two
different bolt patterns, two shaft lengths, and two different heater
hose outlets (on opposite sides, so plumbing around isn't easy) for the
196 water pump. There were eight different combos IIRC, out of 16
possible. One or two could be consolidated, so there should be at least
six part numbers. Try ordering one though and it's pot luck that you get
the correct one. 6-7 years ago I ordered two from NAPA, which is usually
good, and got the wrong one. The reorder was different but wrong, so I
had them send my old one in to be rebuilt. That's the ONLY way you're
guranteed to get one that fits correctly. Most stores can get them
rebuilt, but it takes 2-4 weeks depending on location.
On Sun, 2006-05-28 at 00:41, Jim Blair wrote:
> A: You got the pump for the wrong model or too new. Ask for one for a
V8
> Hornet and you should get the correct one.
TomJ --
In a perfect world, yes ... :-)
Six or eight, the aftermarket world's data is corrupting. I think
they're consolidating back catalogs, collapsing models into model-year,
or something, as it's harder and hard to even get quality stores to
document the difference, even when they know there is one.
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 03:37:42 -0000
From: <francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] rear end leaking....
To: <imfatdad@xxxxxxxxx>, <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<8B4C911BEBA5E24888E353FF362B9E7702E65F5B@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Date: Sunday, May 28, 2006 07:55 PM
From: J. Johnson <imfatdad@xxxxxxxxx>
I noticed that my rear differential is leaking out the front of the
diff. (65 American) Anyone know procdure to repair this (my TSM does
not seem to address this unless I am reading wrong area..) and the part
number(s) for seals, etc that I will need to fix... Any advice is
appreciated...
If this is a 196 car with the "big nut" driveshaft, good luck finding
the seal! It's a stepped seal that is no longer made. Check the AMC
dealers such as Blaser's, and Galvins. They might have one, or there may
be repros since I located one about eight years ago (from Blaser, I
think). They were difficult to find, and I was told only 3-4 were in
inentory at that time.
The seal itself mounts litk any other seal -- it just presses in. Go to
the rear axle section on removing the driveshaft. That big nut is
difficult to get tight, and if it isn't tightened enough the driveshaft
can come out, I know from experience! Make sure the pinion shaft and
rear yoke splines are clean and dry when reinstalling. I used a pair of
large wrenches with 24" cheater handles, bracing one against the floor
and pulling as hard as I could to tighten. That finally worked.
If you have a 232 car it's got a "normal" rear u-joint yoke that's
bolted on, and the joint is bolted on also. That seal you can get at any
local parts store. It will help to get the number off the seal so they
can cross reference it. A Hornet/Concord or Gremlin/Spirit rear axle
will fit if you decide to swap, but you'll have to get the driveshaft
also. That axle is a little wide for pre 64 Americans, but will fit with
stock wheels. A friend put one in a 1960 model. It would have been
better with deeper wheels, but it did work.
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 03:46:56 -0000
From: <francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Restoring Aluminum Headlight Covers
To: <55fordf100@xxxxxxx>, <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<8B4C911BEBA5E24888E353FF362B9E7702E65F5C@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Date: Monday, May 29, 2006 11:23 AM
From: Keith Kubiak <55fordf100@xxxxxxx>
I am currently restoring my 65 Marlin. The headlight covers are dull but
in
otherwise good shape. I did some sanding, buffng and polishing on one
and was
able to get a nice shine to the metal. Are these headlight covers
anodized? It
was very difficult to get the initial dull surface buffed off. What is
recommended for restoring these to a good shine? Should I buff and
polish them
and then use an aluminum polish/wax? Or should I take them to a shop for
anodizing?
Keith, anodizing is a protective coating. That's likely what you
polished off. Once the aluminum is polished clean it with something like
mineral spirits or paint thinner to remove all traces of wax or polish.
It may appear to be slightly duller, but not much. To prevent corrosion
spray with a clear paint that is UV resistant (not polyurethane). That
will restore the shine also. Modern clear coat paint, even a spray can,
is probably as good as 1960s anodizing. If someone in the local area
powder coats, there are clear posders that work well and would be a more
durable. If the car will be garage kept clear paint will be fine though.
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 15:26:08 -0500
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 15 gallon fuel cell $100
To: <baadassgremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "AMC List" <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <043801c683a0$c86eabe0$28f1b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Ain't mine, ya'll contact the sellers below thanks.
==================================
15 gallon fuel cell $100 Bruce @ 503-255-4489
==================================
Tell him I sent you, thanks.
Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
*email is currently HEAVY
Call if important*
www.planethoustonamx.com
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 15:26:31 -0500
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 290V8 & AT for sale $200
To: <baadassgremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "AMC List" <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <043901c683a0$c8b88620$28f1b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Not mine ya'll call the fellow below.
=================================
1967 290V8 & automatic trannie, 70,000 original miles, $200, Bill @
360-871-4437
=================================
Tell them I sent you, thankas.
Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
*email is currently HEAVY
Call if important*
www.planethoustonamx.com
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 15:39:00 -0500
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Fw: copper gasket availability question
To: "AMC List" <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, <baadassgremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "Scherwa, Timothy" <Timothy.Scherwa@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <043d01c683a0$cdefab00$28f1b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
If anyone knows if the item below is still available, please feel free to reply and also copy your reply to Tim who would appreciate it, thanks in advance to all who might reply.
Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
*email is currently HEAVY
Call if important*
www.planethoustonamx.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Scherwa, Timothy Timothy.Scherwa@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 3:02 PM
Eddie,
Does anyone make an embossed (raised edges) header gasket in copper or aluminum for the early square port heads? Having no luck with the Majors?.Mr. Gasket, SCE, etc.
Thanks,
Timothy J. Scherwa
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 18:25:59 -0500
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] mark donohue reunion
To: <baadassgremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "AMC List" <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <044001c683a0$cea03650$28f1b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Check out this massive array of iron, what a arsenal, just about every car
Donohue drove in his legendary career is shown:
http://www.unfairadvantageracing.com/welcome.html
Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
*email is currently HEAVY
Call if important*
www.planethoustonamx.com
------------------------------
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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 61
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