AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 60
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 60
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- Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 12:00:02 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Dash Light Gremlins (JOE FULTON)
2. Re: Are we the same? (Frank Swygert)
3. Re: Water Pump 1974 AMX Javelin (Richard Brown)
4. Re: Water Pump 1974 AMX Javelin (Tom Jennings)
5. '72 project Gremlin in Maryland for sale, near
Beltway/Andrews Air Force base... (Jerry Casper)
6. Fw: Spark Plugs options questions (Eddie Stakes)
7. Re: dash lights on gremlin (Eddie Stakes)
8. Re: Gremlin in Maryland (JOE FULTON)
9. rear end leaking.... (J Johnson)
10. NICE SPIRIT SHOW CAR CHEAP (Jeff & Caroline)
11. Re: 10 inch front brake drums wanted (Jim Blair)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 06:12:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Dash Light Gremlins
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060528131212.77467.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 14:29:29 -0400
From: Steve Johnston <SJohn89715@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Dash Light Gremlins
Every once and a while, when I turn up the dash light
dimmer, my gas
gauge and temp gauge mysteriously fly up to the top.
It only happens
every so often and normally doesn't happen at all. In
other words, a
mystery. I changed the headlight switch and this
didn't help. Since
it only happens occasionally I have just lived with
it. Any ideas
though as to what is causing it?
Steve Johnston,
Editor, Northern Ramblers of Canada Newsletter,
Steve,
Since both gauges are reading high at the same time,
it sounds like you have a ground in the instrument
circuit which is intermittent. Both the fuel gauge
and the temperature gauge read high when there is low
resistance and low when there is high resistance.
It probably has nothing to do with your headlight
switch. Check behind your panel for a bad ground.
You could connect an ohmmeter to the fuel gauge
connection on the circuit board or the temp gauge
connection and also to a good ground. Then jiggle
other connections and look for stray wires. The
ohmmeter will show when you have a direct connection
to ground.
Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 10:14:38 -0400
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Are we the same?
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<ADVANCES62kJXrRjbDt000002cc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
This is for all listers -- please refrain from sending things like this
to the list. When you send things out to your address lists, make sure
you check for the AMC-List so that it isn't included. I know things
like this happen by accident, that's why this reminder is directed at
the list in general.
> Hi,
>
> I just took this test on Tickle.com.
>
> What's Your True Color?
> http://web.tickle.com/invite?test=1108&type=t
>
> Take it and see how you score. You can see my score at the end.
>
>
> Heather
> _______________________________________________
=============================================================
Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 08:24:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Brown <moby43@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Water Pump 1974 AMX Javelin
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060528152453.64869.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Thanks Nick, I don't have the old water pump anymore, I turned back in as a core. 2" could be an exaggeration. I was hoping that a spacer would be the problem, but when I tore it back down there was no spacer. I will be glad to buy it from you but the information I am giving you is all I have got. I am less than a shade tree mechanic, I am a drive way mechanic with a 132 piece ratchet set guaranteed for life from the flea market. I wish I could give you more info, I just don't know.
Nick ALFANO <71amx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: Richard,
It sound like you need the short shaft water pump.
AMC have a few different length water pumps although I
have never seen one that was that far off. You didn't
put the fan spacer between the water pump and the
pulley did you?
If you measure your old water pump from the face where
it bolts to the timing cover to the collar on the end
of the shaft, I will see if I have the correct one for
you.
Nick Alfano
Alfano Performance
Kenosha, WI. 53142
262-942-8271 after 6om central and weekends
262-308-1302
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 27 May 2006 09:55:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Brown
Subject: [AMC-List] Water Pump 1974 AMX Javelin
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<20060527165550.27327.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Hi everybody. Can anybody please tell me where I might
get a waterpump
for my Javelin. I bought one from NAPA and it fits the
bolt linups but
the pulley is a good 2 inches to long. This water pump
will not line up
with the P/S or Alternator. What am I missing please.
This is a
beautiful car that cannot wait to run again.
Thanks,
Richard
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 10:03:15 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Water Pump 1974 AMX Javelin
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1148835792.9403.20.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
On Sun, 2006-05-28 at 00:41, Jim Blair wrote:
> A: You got the pump for the wrong model or too new. Ask for one for a V8
> Hornet and you should get the correct one.
In a perfect world, yes ... :-)
Six or eight, the aftermarket world's data is corrupting. I think
they're consolidating back catalogs, collapsing models into model-year,
or something, as it's harder and hard to even get quality stores to
document the difference, even when they know there is one.
I no longer through water pumps out, and I have a big collection of
pulleys; I musthave at least four different depth pulleys (for the six).
Even so, when I stuck the rebuilt 258 in the 72 Hornet, *none* of the
pulleys matched the pump I got; I had to make a 3/16" spacer to put
under the pulley to get it to line up. I have the old parts, which did
line up fine, and it's simply different.
The 3/16" in this case could be simply the depth the pulley-adapter is
pressed onto the shaft. Maybe in ye olden dayes, some Smart Guy knew
that there were different depths; now, when
lowest-possible-cost-damned-the-consequences is the only goal, only
know-nothings are hired. I'm guessing on that last part but I'd bet it's
at least partly true.
>
>
> From: Richard Brown <moby43@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [AMC-List] Water Pump 1974 AMX Javelin
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID:
> <20060527165550.27327.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Hi everybody. Can anybody please tell me where I might get a
> waterpump for my Javelin. I bought one from NAPA and it fits the
> bolt linups but the pulley is a good 2 inches to long. This
> water pump will not line up with the P/S or Alternator. What am
> I missing please. This is a beautiful car that cannot wait to
> run again.
>
> Thanks,
> Richard
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 14:38:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jerry Casper <gremlingts@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] '72 project Gremlin in Maryland for sale, near
Beltway/Andrews Air Force base...
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060528213833.49779.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I went to look at a red '72 Gremlin today,non-X
model, it's a major project. Has rust in rear wheel
well lips, driver's door jamb below hinges, inner
rocker on driver's side felt solid, though. No rust
front or back inner rocker that I could feel ( car on
ground, no wheels, only a few inches clearance to feel
). A few interesting things about it was it had the
Gremlin guy emblems on the rear quarters, behind the
Gremlin script emblems. I asked about it, the guy, who
bought it directly from an AMC dealership years ago,
said it came that way straight off the lot. Hmm.
Didn't ask whether used or new. Looked like they had
adhesive behind them, couldn't tell if the pegs were
on or not. Wasn't heavily optioned, bench seat, basic
steering wheel, but with Gremlin in center of cap. He
had 4 wheels and tires, but they were Superior
universal type mag wheels, garbage, basically. Grille
had been replaced with a '76 grille. Fenders looked
pretty solid. Lifted the hatch glass, had heavy
pitting along sides where crap collected, but saw no
rust-thru yet.
Overall, a big project, but probably saveable,
depending on condition of the sub-frames and
floorboards, which I couldn't check then. I decided to
pass on it. I've taken some pics of it, if anyone
wants to see them. Not sure what he wants , he asked
me what I'd offer, I told him I doubt he'd get more
than $200-300 offers for it. Since it's a "family
heirloom", he might think it's worth more than it is.
Couldn't read him that well to tell. Anyway, I really
don't need another project like that. It has the door
panel Gremlin inserts, two fender emblems on the rear
quarter. No nice Gremlin gas cap. It'd be worth a few
hundred for the parts. It's a 232 / automatic, he said
it ran when parked, not sure how long it's been
sitting, license plate showed '85.
He's got a SUPER-nice red '76 in the garage, though,
his son repainted it, has a tan plaid interior, really
super nice shape. He has 8 slot wheels on it, but no
volcano's...it's not an X car, did the 8 slots come
without the centers? He said the car came new like
that , his Father bought it new from AMC dealership.
Hmm again. I've never seen the 8-slots without
volcano's, then again, usually they're only on X
models that I've seen personally. The Custom Gremlin,
maybe could get them that way? The car also had the 5
or 6 inch Gremlin guy decal on the upper rear quarter
area, I've heard of them , but never seen one (set) on
a car before. I took pics of that car, too. Basic car,
2-spoke vinyl steering wheel, plain horn cap. He's
going to the June National in Gaithersburg, MD show
next month with it.
So, bottom line, is anyone interested in a '72 body
that needs work? His name is Nasatka, his phone number
is (301) 868-0300. It MIGHT be a work number or work
cell phone, you might get a voice-mail about Nasatka
Barrier, Inc ( he does drive-thru security barriers,
the White House uses these exact ones ). Anyway,
that's the number I have for him, anyone interested,
call him and negotiate for the car. I'm out of it. :)
Good luck!
Jerry in Virginia
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 12:15:59 -0500
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Fw: Spark Plugs options questions
To: "AMC List" <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, <baadassgremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Paul Baker <paulbaker707@xxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <015201c682af$a258bcd0$28f1b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Paul has a interesting question below concerning spark plugs, read his letter, then if you think you can help or give advise pro or con on different spark plugs you have tried, please feel free to comment and be sure to also copy your reply to Paul, thanks in advance to all who might reply.
Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
*email is currently HEAVY
Call if important*
www.planethoustonamx.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Baker paulbaker707@xxxxxxx
To: eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 6:36 PM
Subject: Spark Plugs
Hi Eddie : Paul Baker here from B.C. Canada again. I was wondering if you knew what these different types of spark plugs might have to offer as far as performance goes. Particularly "Bosch Platinum Plus 4" with the four electrodes . I have been wanting to try out some different plugs in my .030 over 343 C.U. but was wondering if there would be any improvement in performance ? They are certainly a whole lot more money than the regular ones. Thanks a lot..Paul Baker Powell River, B.C. Canada
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 18:33:38 -0500
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] dash lights on gremlin
To: "AMC List" <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: SJohn89715 <SJohn89715@xxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <015d01c682af$a9206cc0$28f1b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Steve, several things on the electrical problem with the gauges. One, if the
car is a 74, almost every 1974 AMC I have owned has been 'electrically
challenged' and have some sort of wiring or electrical problems. Most of it
has to do with the Seat Belt Interlock system the feds imposed on US
automakers in 1974, and was such a disaster, it was lifted for 1975. My 74
Sportabout I had to bypass the ignition for instance and put in remote
starter button. The 74 Gremlin I recently sold had fuel/temp problems in the
gauges, they were doing same like yours.
If not a 74, here are a few things besides what Joe Fulton mentioned, to
try:
1. make sure your ending is grounded, there should be a wire from
crossmember to engine on passenger side. It may look good but pull it and
check to see if it is even tight and not rotted.
2. the gauges themselves....I can't tell you how many times I have battled
AMC gauge problems only to find out it was loose gauges. Vibration thru the
years, from something like tire out of rotation, broken motor or trans
mount, bad tire, you name it, but it can vibrate tem loose. So if you pull
your gauge cluster out, if you can turn the small 5/16th(?) bolts that hold
the gauges to the circuit board....by hand, this could be the problem. I
have made it a point in recent years to check these first, only to find it
is usually the problem a majority of the time. Case in point is my 69
Ambassador SST for sale for only $975 in a shameless plug (wha, like no one
here didn't see that coming, duh)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4630772691
the gas gauge didn't work, so I removed the instrument cluster and yes, it
was loose, tightened it and works great now, this was just a month ago.
3. fusebox. Most if not all AMCs fuseboxes are held on by two small 5/16th
bolts, these too also get loose from vibration. You might remove both
screws, check the back of the fusebox to see if any scorch marks, and if so,
change it out, you can find fuseboxes on ebay or here for usually under $20.
4.On some year Gremlins there is a plug from inside wiring harness to
firewall, while I have seldom had trouble with these I have had a few
problems with same thing, loose. Having someone sit in the car while you
jiggle the right wire and watch temp gauge helps. Also make sure that you
don't have any carb return spring to the temp sending unit in the intake is
a V8, boy, like a dumbass, I have put carb return springs there only to
crater the unit.
5. lastly check to see if the gauge cluster is grounded. Something you could
do is run a wire from the cluster to something like dash metal frame or
ignition switch, something that is a good ground, just move the wire around
to something to see if anything jolts the gauges. If they drop, then this is
a easy fix, get a eyelet and wire and run the wire to dash frame or firewall
to solidly ground it.
Good luck,
Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
*email is currently HEAVY
Call if important*
www.planethoustonamx.com
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 17:02:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Gremlin in Maryland
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060529000206.79205.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Jerry said:
snip
He's got a SUPER-nice red '76 in the garage, though,
his son repainted it, has a tan plaid interior, really
super nice shape. He has 8 slot wheels on it, but no
volcano's...it's not an X car, did the 8 slots come
without the centers? He said the car came new like
that , his Father bought it new from AMC dealership.
Hmm again. I've never seen the 8-slots without
volcano's, then again, usually they're only on X
models that I've seen personally. The Custom Gremlin,
maybe could get them that way? The car also had the 5
or 6 inch Gremlin guy decal on the upper rear quarter
area, I've heard of them , but never seen one (set) on
a car before.
Jerry, my 76 Gremlin (base model) had the 6-inch
Gremlin man decals on the rear quarters too. They are
also shown in the 76 AMC brochure. They just came on
the base level I think.
Regards,
Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 17:55:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: J Johnson <imfatdad@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] rear end leaking....
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060529005559.88953.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I noticed that my rear differential is leaking out the front of the
diff. (65 American) Anyone know procdure to repair this (my TSM does
not seem to address this unless I am reading wrong area..) and the part
number(s) for seals, etc that I will need to fix... Any advice is appreciated...
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 21:24:50 -0400
From: "Jeff & Caroline" <jbennett1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] NICE SPIRIT SHOW CAR CHEAP
To: "mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <List@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <000701c682be$ae9a9040$72a47e46@caroline4dv1dm>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4642866720&category=5357
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 28 May 2006 22:52:35 -0700
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 10 inch front brake drums wanted
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F56AF11D7962F94F70F237AC9D0@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
I've used JBweld to fill them in for years. I start to do the rear brakes
first (I let the putty dry while I do the front brakes then put the shoes
on)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 10 inch front brake drums wanted
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1148784500.9403.3.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
On Sat, 2006-05-27 at 14:51, Jay wrote:
> Backing plates used should not be a problem as I see it.
Since you'll have them off, you really should have the
shoe-contact-point spots filled in with weld and ground flat.
It's
normal to wear grooves after decades of use.
The shoes won't sit flat and parallel to the drum surfaces; the
shoes
will catch on the drums as they operate, making noises; shoes
will wear
out twice as fast (since they are not parallel, the closes spot
to the
drum wears the most).
Get anyone with a MIG welder to just fill up the grooves with a
bead of
metal; you can grind them flat enough with an abrasive disk in a
3/8"
electric drill.
Jim Blair, Seattle, WA '84 J10 Black Jack (getting lifted and stroked!), '73
J4000 304/TH400/QT tow truck http://www.virtualjeep.com
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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 60
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