Re: [AMC-List] 64 Rambler Classic Progress Report (cont'd).

[Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>]

Couple of things on this. First, the head bolts are not common hardware 
store fare. The 199 and 232 sixes (at least the first style with shaft 
rockers) do not have dowels to locate the heads so the bolts have machined 
shoulders to locate the head properly. Also, these are not grade 8 bolts, 
they are grade 5. Second, this fix may not do a thing, particularly for a 
40 plus year old motor. How's the oil pressure when hot (if you can drive 
it, it's best to drive it for 10 to 15 minutes to get it good and hot)? If 
the light flickers at all at idle, at least the cam bearings are shot and 
the mains may be as well (on the 232 in my 68 American, this was caused by 
broken up valve stem seals plugging up the oil pickup tube, I put a new 
pump and tube in it, had the crank machined and once it was running, it 
flushed more seal material out and did the same damage all over again). If 
it doesn't flicker and cleaning the oil passage didn't help, you probably 
have a spun cam bearing. Third, you need a new or rebuilt rocker shaft 
assembly (Kanter has good prices on rebuilt shaft assemblies). The really 
don't last long with no oil. You should also check the valves for excessive 
play in the guides (I could easily see them move in my engine). If it turns 
out that you have engine damage, it seems like it usually runs between 
$1500 and $2000 to rebuild them depending upon what's wrong and if you do 
any assembly yourself. Also, pistons and water pumps are different for 
64-67 engines (pistons are about twice as much for those three years). I 
sourced both of those items from Kanter.

As far as machining the head bolt goes, I wouldn't do it by hand. The 
machined area needs to be concentric (btw, if you do this yourself, you 
want to clamp on the neck and not the head, they head may not be concentric 
and cause a wobble) and if you go deeper than the root diameter of the 
threads, you'll weaken the bolt. Also, you need to radius the step you just 
made in the bolt so it doesn't get a stress fracture and snap. This is a no 
big deal machining operation on a lathe. It took all of about 10 minutes to 
do. You may have to pay a machine shop an hour labor to do it but it's a 
lot better to pay them than having to remove the head to fish out a broken 
bolt.

Matt

At 11:58 AM 5/5/2006 +0000, you wrote:
>That's a common problem Joe! Go to 
>http://www.mattsoldcars.com/techinfo/boltmod.shtml to find the best fix. A 
>lathe is best, but you can carefully grind and/or file the bolt down. If 
>using a grinder get a cup of water and keep it close by, dipping the bolt 
>in the water after a few seconds of grinding. It will "hiss" for a second 
>when you dip it, but shouldn't "hiss" for more than that. The bolt SHOULD 
>NOT change color at any time! If it does you got it to hot and need to get 
>another. A grade 8 bolt is all it is, so you can get a hardware store 
>replacement. You'll need a 1/2" wide file or grinder though.
>
>If the engine was recently rebuilt it's poosible that the cam bearing oil 
>hole wasn't properly aligned. Hope that's not the problem!
>
>--
>Frank Swygert
>Publisher, "American Independent
>Magazine" (AIM)
>For all AMC enthusiasts
>http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
>(free download available!)
>
>--- original message--------------------------------
>There appears to be no oil getting to the valve train
>and of course the valve clattering did not subside.
>The oil pressure idiot light did go out when the
>engine started.  I then drained the oil and plan to
>pull the oil pan next to inspect the oil pickup and
>oil pump.
>_______________________________________________
>AMC-List mailing list
>AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
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>or go to http://www.amc-list.com

mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
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