Re: power brake boosters

[farna@xxxxxxx]

That may have been a post I made about running a 88-92 (somewhere in that range) Ford Ranger booster in my 63 Classic. I think I went in detail about what I did, but it requires some welding that could damage the booster. If you know how to do it and are careful it's no big deal. You also have to make some judgement calls, so I'm not going into it again. From a parts standpoint I'm not sure you're that much better off. You can get a replacement quick and easy, but would have to modify it before using. Sort of a catch 22! No shop would mod and install a booster for liability reasons, so you can't do it on the road. The up side is it's a newer part and shouldn't be any trouble for a long time. So unless you plan on taking the car just about anywhere in the country, you might be better off to rebuild what you have. 

For the record, I'm using the booster and master from the Ranger. You'll have to adapt the lines or make new ones, but that's not to difficult.

On October 31, 2005 Justin Shelton wrote:

> Tom -
> 
> I'm glad to see your questions about power brakes -
> kinda odd the way I'm dealing with the same or similar
> issues right now.
> 
> My '62 Cross Country has power brakes, and last week I
> pulled the master cylinder and booster.  Got all the
> rust off of both, then I bought an NOS rebuild kit off
> of Ebay and was planning to rebuild the stuff this
> week.
> 
> My question is: Rather than rebuild my existing
> components, would I be better off pulling a booster
> and master cylinder from a newer junkyard car?  A
> couple months back someone posted that they were using
> a brake setup from an S10 or Sonoma, and I'm wondering
> if retrofitting newer components is really the way to
> go.  The main issues I see are 1) clearance (although
> that booster I pulled is about as big as they come!)
> and 2) how easily a retrofit will fit with the
> existing brake pedal linkage.
> 
> Are there other issues, like how much braking power I
> need?  If I retrofit, should I look to pull a master
> cyklinder and booster from a car equivalently as heavy
> as my '62 wagon?
> 
> Thanks for everything, guys.
> 
> - Justin
> 
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> 
> Message-Id:
> <24EE71DD-E93E-4180-9649-D5C0BB9781FB@xxxxxxx>
> To: AMC List <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: power brake boosters
> Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 20:38:40 -0800
> 
> So what's the deal with power brake boosters? I have
> very little
> experience with them (few of my cars have had power
> brakes!) and I've
> got a bad one; it leaks down less than 20 seconds
> after the engine's
> off, and it has a "stiff spot" (low assist) on the
> first bit of
> travel (feels like "stiction" in the pedal or linkage,
> but I checked
> very carefully).
> 
> The only replacement I can find is $110 from NAPA, and
> comes with a
> master cylinder. I don't need one of those, I ahve a
> new one installed.
> 
> Are boosters generally interchangable? Are they
> rebuildable at home?
> Kits?
> 
> I suspect there's only two or three physical types (in
> AMC land) but
> I have no way to identify them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10
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> 
> Message-Id:
> <03911394-A8AB-4AE8-94F6-75CA04FD31CE@xxxxxxx>
> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: 1984 AMC Eagle and Intake Manfold ID
> Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 21:33:50 -0800
> To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> >
> > I knew the valve covers were an issue. As I
> mentioned in another
> > post, my 86 is leaking. One thing about this 84.
> Most valve covers
> > seem to have bolts around the edges to hold the
> cover on (as it
> > appears to be in the procedure that, I beleive it
> was Wayne, posted
> > the link to. But on this 84 it has 2 (I think it was
> 2) studs or
> > bolts coming up through the valve cover to hold it.
> Are there metal
> > replacements for that style?
> 
> Yeah, the aftermarket covers (like the finned aluminum
> job I got from
> AK Jacobs) require you to tap those holes, 5/16" and
> 1/4" I think
> (something like that) and comes with allen head bolts.
> 
> The real problem is that there simply aren't enough
> holes around the
> perimeter, on this or any of this AMC six, really. I
> would like to
> see one every 4 - 6 inches.
> 
> I miss my old Gen 1 V8 here -- huge, fat rubber
> gaskets, cover held
> on with two wing-nutted studs.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 16:01:16 -0700
> Message-Id:
> <200510301601.AA373162266@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> From: "hhclutter" <hhclutter@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: 1969 Javelin for sale!
> 
> I am in Abilene Texas on business and saw this ad in
> the American
> Classifieds paper.
> 
> "1969 Javelin (AMC) 290 (4 bbl) 3 sp, restored,
> immaculate, Spoiler,
> traction
> bars, extras.   325-338-2297."
> 
> 
> If you are interested, contact the seller directly.  I
> don't know
> anything
> about the car other that what is in the ad infor
> above.
> 
> 
> Howard Clutter
> 67 Rogue convertible
> 72 Javelin
> 
> 
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> 12                               Message:0012
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> 12
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> 
> Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 09:16:50 -0800
> From: "Ralph Ausmann" <ralph.ausmann@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Fw: Tire sizes
> To: "AMC List" <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-id:
> <002801c5dd75$b8101120$0200a8c0@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> Can anyone help with the tire sizes for James here.
> Please copy him in
> direct as he apparently is not a list member.
> (James Finholt <jfinholt1@xxxxxxxxxxx>)
> 
> James, you can join the AMC-List at www.amxfiles.com.
>  List members
> are
> very responsive with information and you will get more
> immediate
> results
> than is usual with other such list groups.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Ralph Ausmann  -  Hillsboro, OR - >
> ralph.ausmann@xxxxxxxxx
> http://mysite.verizon.net/res79g4m/  ... and "check
> the links"
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: James and Christi Finholt
> To: ralph.ausmann@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 8:48 AM
> Subject: Tire sizes
> 
> 
> Good Morning!
> 
> I am trying to locate what tire options are available
> for my 1967 Rebel
> SST convertible.  I have been searching the Internet
> for several weeks
> and have not been able to locate a source that lists
> the size options
> for this car.  It is nearing completion on the
> restoration so it is
> time
> to select the tires and rims.  I want to go "old
> school" and large in
> the back and smaller in the front but no source I find
> lists the
> factory
> sizings or limitations
> 
> Can you help???
> 
> James A. and Christi D. Finholt
> 3510 16th Court South
> Salem, OR  97302
> 503.588.9111
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Message-Id:
> <F5EF9FC7-4062-475A-845D-BFAC24B805BC@xxxxxxx>
> To: AMC List <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: more brake booster
> Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 22:57:48 -0800
> 
> Erm, it seems I have a drum brake booster behind my
> disk brake master
> cylinder. The Rock Auto site has links to Cardone
> pages, which has
> excellent photos by the way (I assume they are correct
> :-)
> 
> I got the booster with the car, as parts-in-the-trunk,
> but I am
> fairly sure it came off the car, which did have drums
> up front. It's
> also a bellcrank linkage model (booster lives on an
> adapter that
> accomodates the bellcrank and pushes it away from the
> firewall).
> 
> I know the drum booster is single-diaphragm and the
> disk is double.
> This is just fine by me, I dislike feather-touch
> brakes.
> 
> A major feature is that the drum booster is inches
> shallower,
> something to keep in mind for oddball installs.
> 
> The booster is just a simple servo, right? There's no
> weirdness ie.
> drum vs. disk is there? Just fit and amount of boost?
> 
> (Since I'm plumbed for the disk brake master cyl on
> the end of the
> drum brake booster I'd rather keep it this way, the
> lessened boost is
> only a plus. It's luxurious compared to the Rambler,
> '79 disk setup
> with no boost at all).


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