Re: 1984 AMC Eagle and Intake Manfold ID
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: 1984 AMC Eagle and Intake Manfold ID



The rubber gasket fits in a groove in the bottom of the valve cover on most of these. Tighten it down firmly as you would a part with an o-ring. NO SILICONE! Do the same with a 196, but don't overtighten the two hold-down bolts. No silicone or any sealant on a rubber gasket, just clean surfaces. Use silicone on a cork gasket.

It seems every couple years I make the same mistake when I change the oil on my bike. It has a flat cover with an odd shaped o-ring in a groove. It seals against a flat surface. I didn't change the oil before going to Korea, and just got it running again about three weeks ago (had to do some major work that was due about the time I left for Korea -- didn't get any better while sitting!). So I changed the oil. I looked at the cover and decided I should have put a thin coat of sealant on it. Used a non hardening sealant (Permatex #2) in a VERY thin coat. The thing leaked as soon as the engine cranked up! Of course THEN I remembered I'd done this same thing a couple years ago!! Had to remove cover, clean, and put back with NO SEALANT. No leaks. That's how I put my old 196 valve cover on, and the 4.0L. No leaks in either. 

On October 31, 2005 Tom Jennings wrote:

> >
> > I knew the valve covers were a problem. The one on my 86 Eagle
> > leaks and I just haven't had the time to fix it. I had heard about
> > the replacement covers before and had been giving some thought to
> > getting one for my 86. I looked at the udpgrade procedure at that
> > link. The 84 doesn't have that much stuff in the way (but my 86
> > sure does).
> 
> I have an 83 engine in my 70 Hornet, and bought a cast aluminum cover
> for it, came with a thick rubber gasket. I tapped the holes, got the
> surfaces spotless, alcohol wipe, glued the gasket down with thin film
> of silicone, cured overnight, thin film on the valve cover,  attached
> with light, non-deforming torque, and let cure overnight before
> starting the engine.
> 
> Still leaks. At least it won't catch on fire :-)
> 
> Just FYI, I did the same technique to my Torqueflite A904 Mopar steel
> deep-sump pan, and it is absolutely oil-tight months later.


=============================================================
Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist








Home Back to the Home of the AMC Gremlin 


This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated