But would an old bi-metal regulator even work? Just out of curiosity...
Hmm... no idea! Impedances are probably all wrong, and will probably have the wrong set points, but if you want to try it, I'd run the alternator isolated from the rest of the car with a test battery or some sort of load, like a headlamp or fan motor.
On May 19, 2005 Tom Jennings wrote:
On Thu, 19 May 2005 farna@xxxxxxx wrote:
Heck, I wonder if you could feed the alternator outputs into an old fashioned generator regulator? Probably wouldn't handle anyting over 35A though...
>>>SHUDDERS AT THE THOUGHT<<< Those old things are horrible. They make me laugh -- buzzing, burning contacts, bending spring arms to set voltage, it's so 19th century! They did work though, far better than it seems they ought to!
Nearly all all alternator voltage regulators (for the usual rotating field alts) are pretty much the same; they cary mostly in connectors and only slightly in set voltage. They're internally pretty simple, a transistor, a zener, a thermistor for temperature compensation and some other crap, all alternators want basically the same thing (voltage too low? increase field current. Etc).
Bigger alts need more field current, but not much else changes. A reg from a 55A alt should be simply a bit heavier-duty than one from a 21A. (It might get hot vice-versa.)
They all have:
* battery connection (measure battery voltage) * field connection (drives the field) * ground (often alternator body) * idiot light * stator connection (measures alt output before final diode)
If you can find the pinouts for the regulator, you can get it to work, if it's any modern-ish alternator 20a - 150a. There might be exceptions, but probably not very many.
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