Re: Disc Brakes

[farna@xxxxxxx]

Armand, it's so simple you don't really need that! What is it you are trying to do? 
Once you have the exploded view it should appear obvious how to replace the calipers. 

1) If removing the caliper, go ahead and remove the brake hose from the body of the car first. If the hoses have never been replaced go ahead and replace them. Hoses don't need to come loose if just replacing pads, but if they've never been changed nows a good time. Your life depends on them and they are 20-30 years old! 

2) You don't have to take the entire caliper assembly off. 
A) If you have a 77-81 caliper there is a support spring/key assembly that needs to come out. The bar (support key) is held in place by a screw. It should be obvious looking at the caliper where it is (refer to the 71 TSM illustartion at http://www.amccf.com/main.html -- I think this is a misprint as these are 77+ Bendix style brakes, not 71-76 K-H style -- looks like an 81 illustration). The key and spring is then driven out with a punch or screwdriver once the screw is removed. It should slide easily unless the brakes are frozen, and even then you shouldn't have to hit it to hard to drive it out. 
B) If you have the earlier K-H type (71-76) or late GM type (82-83) there are two pins that screw out from the back of the caliper, usually with a large allen wrench (refer to 67-71 parts manual illustration at http://www.amccf.com/main.html). 

Once the slides or pins are out the main part of the caliper comes right off. 

3) The part that comes off is all you'll get if you bought rebuilt calipers. The anchor assembly can stay on the car unless you are changing the type of caliper. The anchor obviously has to correspond to the type.

4) If replacing pads only you still have to remove the caliper as described above, but can leave the hoses alone. DO NOT let the calipers hang by the hoses -- it puts undue stress on them. Wire the calipers to the upper suspension arm so there is no strain on the hoses. 

5) Slide the pads toward the middle of the caliper an they should fall right out. The pin type should may fall out once the pin is removed. 

6) New calipers often come loaded with pads. If not the piston should be fully retracted so you just install new pads and slap the calipers back on. Coat the contact surfaces of the slides or pins with a thin coat of anti-seize compound before assembly. It will make them go together easier and prevent seizing later. This is especially important for the slide type! Plain grease won't do, it just collects dirt and gums up. Anti-seize is a grease with solids that will not gum up (usually aluminum or copper, sometimes with graphite as well). Assemble the spring on the key. Place one in then drive the opposite one in. Not as hard as it sounds for one person to do! Pin type of course is a bit easier. 

7) If just replacing pads you need to push the piston all the way in the caliper body. I've managed to brace the caliper body against the front suspension and push the piston in with a hammer handle, but they are usually more difficult than that! A large C-clamp is the best thing to use, 4" throat is just big enough (but check!). you can also buy a special clamp at the local auto parts store for about the same price. The big C-clamp might cost a little more (sometimes less!) but is a lot more versatile, so I'd go that route. 

8) Don't fill the master cylinder before changing pads as you'll be pushing a little fluid back up into it. You really should flush the brake lines and put new fluid in now. You can put the hoses in a container, pump the brakes until the reservoir is half empty, then put fresh fluid in and repeat until it runs clear. You could also flush with alcohol then run fresh fluid in. Just don't let the reservoir go dry or you'll have to bench bleed it. May as well hit the back brakes and replace that rubber line between the axle and brake line too. 

On May 3, 2005 Armand Eshleman wrote:

> Thanks for the information. I think there is an exploded view of the Bendix
> system
> on the website. I would still really apprciate it if anyone can scan the
> pages out of
> the 75 TSM that explain the repair/replacement of the caliper, pads, etc.
> Thanks again,
> 
> Armand
> 
> 
> Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 09:50:34 -0400
> From: farna@xxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Disc Brakes
> To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <ADVANCES62ZbLAX3cf3000000ed@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> The Finnish AMC Club has it on their site. Search for "finnish AMC" and you
> should find it right away. Go to the tech section, naturally!
> 
> On April 30, 2005 Armand Eshleman wrote:
> 
> > I'm in need of the 75 TSM drawings and service information for the Bendix
> > Caliper disc brake system. Can anybody help me with some scans of this
> > information?
> > please send to my e-mail or contact me off list for my home address to
> send
> > paper copies.
> > Thanks very much.
> >
> > Armand
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


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