Re: Reality Check Weekend

[farna@xxxxxxx]

Joe, sounds like typical heater rust-out of the cowl floor. It starts around the heater air inlet in the cowl floor then eats its way across. The second place these cars rust id the pinch weld seam between the floor and side of the car. The seam is bent in such a way under the wheel well that mud can get trapped in it, which then holds in moisture, which eventually rusts the seam. It's sort of structural, but isn't the main support -- the cross member and transverse bracing under the seats are. I'd trim the badly rusted area, clean and paint the rest, then epoxy and rivet sheet metal over the area to strengthen it -- no welding required as the epoxy will be just as strong, and it's covered by carpet. You can weld a piece in, but the double area with epoxy will be stronger. The rivets are just to act like clamps until the epoxy cures. You can use screws and then remove them, but will have to fill the holes (a little epoxy will do, need to fill in the rivet holes too). Just do!
 n't use that "rust conversion" primer! It's exceptionally hard and can't be scuffed for the epoxy to bond good -- maybe with a grinder, but what was the point of using it if you're knocking half of it off? Undercoat the bottom good. 

I'd have to see pics of yours to really know how bad it is though. Above is just a guess as it's the most common problem. I had the same problem with my 63, but it wasn't bad on the pinch weld seams. 

The 195.6: If the valves are the problem, replace them. If it's the seats, you can have inserts put in. All that is a bit of money, especially if Chevy (or some other make) valves need to be substituted. Then you'll need new guides most likely, as newer model valves usually have smaller diameter stems. Just make sure the head is magnafluxed for cracks FIRST -- it's old and subject to crystallization if it's been run hot several times already (common problem!). 

The ticking sound might not be a rod knock! Unless you KNOW it's coming from the bottom end check the valves first. These are SOLID LIFTER engines and the vlaves need to be adjust ed every 5K miles of so. If they are out of adjustment a light knocking sound (can be mistaken for a rod starting to knock) can come from the right side where the lifter is separating from the pushrod. Shouldn't occur there at idle, but at higher speeds (above say 1500 rpm) can. Check the rocker shaft as well. No oiling problem like the early 232, but the shaft can wear. When adjusted right the engine will sound like a sewing machine cold, should improve a bit as it warms up with just a very light tapping. No tapping at cold idle means the valves are to tight and you're looking to burn one and lose power as it warms up. Better a little tapping after warmed up! It's a PITA, but I always warm the engine then adjust while running (oil doesn't spray, but the engine is hot and it's tough getting around !
 the carb). I also go 0.001-0.002 more clearance than factory though. I adjust using the factory settings, but just a tad loose (a "tad" is 0.001-0.002, obviously!! ;> ).

On April 17, 2005 JOE B FULTON wrote:

> Well, I should be finishing my 73 Javelin (painted
> months ago) and getting it ready for the numerous
> local shows around Salinas.  But I have this 62
> Rambler Classic wagon which was given to me last year
> and had hoped to just get it driveable for the AMCRC
> meet in Sacramento this June.
> 
> I got it running a few months ago and discovered what
> sounds like a rod knocking.  So I bought another
> junkyard 196 cast iron engine out of a 64 Classic at
> Prunedale Auto Wreckers (Gwen's Rambler got the
> bumpers).  Turns out Ms. Nattie Gussie the previous
> owner of that car wasn't very meticulous about oil
> changes and the engine was pretty sludged up.  Anyway
> I was still blindly hoping for the best and took the
> cylinder head to a local machine shop I trust.  Turns
> out the head had had one too many valve jobs already
> and the valves were not up to another round on the
> valve grinder.   No problem, I had the head off of the
> 62 Rambler.  So I got the engine ready to pull and
> suddenly came to my senses and starting really looking
> over this old wagon.  There is moderate to severe rust
> on the passenger side cowl extending down through the
> unibody side near the front door post.
> 
> All stop (Navy term).
> 
> This wagon ain't going nowhere by June 2005.  Too bad.
>  It will become a side yard ornament until I can
> figure out the best course of action.  Sad, but I have
> to be practical sometimes.   From what I can see
> without removing any more sheet metal, I think the
> rust is repairable, even with my novice mig welding
> skills, but I may need some help fashioning patch
> panels.  The area appears to be structural so I don't
> think fiberglass repairs will be appropriate.


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