This is a pretty easy job and should be pretty clear once you get into it. You can take a look at http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/ebrake-pics.shtml which has some pictures and an explanation of what I did. What I did on my 68 (it was frozen when I got the car) was to pull the cotter pins out of the equalizer and take everything apart there (pay atention to how it is put together). The screw thingy went in a vise, was wire brushed, heated with a propane torch, and the nuts removed. One of the nuts has a special shoulder on it. I ran a tap through it, replaced the other, and ran a die over the threads of the screw thingy. Coat the threads with anti-seize when you put it back together. Once the cable is loose at the back, undo the clamps that hold it to the body, unbolt the lever from the dash, and pull it out. Besides the rubber boot Mark mentioned, there is a latch that you can lift up that lets the handle push in more than normal. Once it's all the way in, the cable comes out without too much fuss. It would be a good idea to replace the rear cables if they are the originals (aftermarket cables have a plastic coating on them). It doesn't take much rust to make them bind which can result in a broken handle on the lever. Matt On 6/17/2008 1:03 PM, Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx spouted this sage advice: > Once you have it down out of the dash you should be able to wrestle it back enough to see how it is connected up front. My 69 had a rubber boot that keeps you from seeing how it is together till after you have it down. > At the rear all mine had was a nut the threaded over a rod that you loosened up then removed it and the clip to release the cable. > It can be a P.I.A. to do if you have a frozen cable as you have to get some playin the front to get it dissconnected. > IIRC, if you pull the handle back a few clicks before you unbolt it then ubolt it you can get the cable out of the handle easier. > > -- > Mark Price > Morgantown, WV > 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5 > 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II > " Chronic Pain Hurts" > > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: "Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx> >> My parking brake cable snapped when I got the car. It's okay in the >> back, between the 2 rear brakes, but the section between the parking >> brake level and the bellcrank / equalizer is broken. >> >> I picked up a new length of cable, and read through the TSM. I THINK >> I'm supposed to unscrew the parking brake level assembly from the >> dash, undo a spring lock and the cable magically pops out or something >> like that. >> >> How do I disconnect it from the bellcrank towards the rear of the car? >> Once it's loose from in front, do I just slide it out the back? Can >> anyone translate the TSM, or any tips in what to do? >> _______________________________________________ >> Amc-list mailing list >> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list > > _______________________________________________ > Amc-list mailing list > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list > > > -- mhaas@xxxxxxx Cincinnati, OH http://www.mattsoldcars.com 1967 Rambler American wagon 1968 Rambler American sedan ================================================================= According to a February 2003 survey of Internet holdouts released by UCLA's Center for Communication Policy, people cite not having a computer as the No. 1 reason they won't go online. _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list