Re: [Amc-list] RE-powering 58-63 American (was t14 to t96 overdrive)

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Comments in the mix.

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> As Tom states, this is a TIGHT engine compartment! My understanding is that when 
> the 1950 Nash Rambler (basically the same car as the 56-63 American) was 
> designed, Nash took it's smallest six and at least partially designed as small a 
> car as they could around it. Might be something someone made up, but one look 
> under the hood and you believe it! Even side to side it's tight! 
> 
> If I had known the Ford 250 six would fit I'd have probably put it in there 
> rather than rebuild a 196. The big problem with the 196, at least as a daily 
> driver, is parts replacement. The most critical difficult to find maintenance 
> part is the water pump. If you drive around town or not to far from home (say no 
> more than 3-4 hours one way), and have alternate transportation, it's no big 
> deal. Everything else that is likely to break is rebuildable or obtainable, but 
> will still take a few days. A water pump might take a couple weeks (to have the 
> original sent in and rebuilt). 
> 
> Mark, you aren't putting in a Ford 200 just to get a Ford 200, but to get an 
> engine that is easier to find parts for. The 200 doesn't have any other 
> advantage over the 196 as far as I'm concerned. Sizes are just to close to make 
> a notcieable difference, and I think the 196 has a torque advantage over the 
> 200. The 250 is just a tall deck 200, and gaining 54 cubic inches vs. just four 
> IS a big deal! It's not just a matter of cutting the firewall either, it's major 
> surgery on the firewall. You must not have seen under the hood of one recently, 
> or just forgot what it's like on the firewall. The heater is dead center of the 
> firewall and made into it, can't just be moved. You'd have to lose the heater 
> and install an aftermarket heating system or do without. Lots of welding and 
> sheet metal work would be involved to make it look good inside and out too. It 
> would not be a simple task! Installing the Ford engine and trans would be much 
> easier, and would just need a custom driveshaft. 

Frank, I'm sorry, but no matter the right or wrong of it I personally would not install a Ford six in one!
Nope, just would not do it. I do as Tom does, scrounge some spares and investigate changeover parts.
If I truly needed to replace the engine and nothing else would fit I guess I could be forced to install the Ford.
It'd be last ditch...
 
> Tom, the AMC15 rear axle is stronger than you think! With near stock size tires 
> it will easily support a carbureted 258. I ran one behind my 4.6L EFI stroker 
> for a couple years with no problems, a 63 small pinion shaft model (torque tube 
> type, but the same pinion shaft is used for TT and early "bog nut" open drive 
> cars, the main reason the "big nut" driveshaft was used). The Dana 35 used in 
> 4.0L Cherokees is essentially the same axle, but I do believe the axle shafts 
> are slightly larger in diameter. That axle will hold up behind a stock small V-8 
> with relatively skinny street tires (up to 205s) in a light car -- the tires 
> will break loose before the axles breaks. The 15 gets an undeserved bad rap. 
> It's as tough as (and about the same size @ 7-9/16") as the Ford 8". 

I'd have to agree on the AMC-15 being a tough cookie. Mine is 3:31 twingrip, no skinny tires.
I have 255/60/15's I do not baby it right now, either! I get my pleasure where I can and some 
tire spin and a little bit of wheel hop, then a quick grab of second gear and that nice satisfying bark,
hmmm, even a chronic pain sufferer can smile! As much as I know it should have the axle nuts retorqued
I have not done so, keeps slipping my mind! Thing has an axle tube that was either not put in true or it roatated a few degrees in years past and siezed when it turned as it does not move! I angle cut the lowering block and it still 
works! Anyway, When I first put it in, I changed the fluid over to Mobile one synthetic gear lube. It does not
make a noise. We all know a HO 4.0L makes about as much power and torque as the old 290. I'd be in no hurry 
to worry about changing one out till it told me it was time to go!

Mark
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