Re: [AMC-List] 62 classic wheel studs (& brakes)

["Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I wouldn't worry about the studs, they are standard and easy to find,
nothing special. Drive one out then go to NAPA and get the longer ones,
they will have them in stock, as will other auto parts stores that carry
such things (the popular chain stores may not). 

Sounds like you may have a problem other than a residual pressure valve
or a proportioning valve. On dry pavement your rear wheels shouldn't
lock even without a proportioning valve, unless you're running up to 60+
then slamming the brakes as hard as you can. At 40 or so it shouldn't
happen. You aren't getting pressure to both front brakes is my guess. 

The first thing I'd do is check all the front lines for kinks. I'm
assuming you used new rubber lines to the discs, or at least used the
newer Mustang lines? If not, that's the first thing to change (get a new
flex line for that rear axle while you're at it!). The second thing is
to get rid of that old disc shaped junction block. NAPA should have a
replacement with the right number of holes, but if not you can replace
with two Tees -- one for the front brake lines, one for the pressure
switch, coupled with a short brake line. This will require bending a few
lines to look right, but just run a loop or U in the line where needed.
Or run the two brake light switch wires into the car and mount a switch
on the pedal and use one Tee. That wouldn't require bending lines. 

The residual pressure valve is in the master cylinder itself, not the
junction block. If you have a disc/drum master cylinder, it should not
have one in the front brake outlet. If you have a drum/drum master, or
just want to check, pull the brake line from the master cylinder going
to the front brakes. Look in the hole and you'll see a small hole in the
center. Get a screw that will screw in at least 2-3 threads into the
small hole, then pull on it. A conical brass tubing seat will pull out.
It will take a bit of force -- a small claw hammer or pry bar may work
better then pliers -- I've done it both ways. Behind the tube is a
spring and hard rubber or plastic piece that should pop right out. If
not, tap the brake pedal LIGHTLY -- no more than 1/4 of the way down. If
nothing comes out, it's already been removed. 

The 62 should have a double master cylinder, drum/drum, from the
factory. So it will have a RP valve in both outlets. If you have an
older single outlet MC, you need to replace it. 

If the above doesn't help, pull one of the calipers apart. If you have
an air compressor you can use a blow gun into the fluid inlet to pop the
piston out. If not, leave it hanging on the hose over a catch pan and
press the brake pedal -- one at a time though. Make sure you have a rag
down for the piston to fall into. Calipers can get a corrosion build-up
behind the seal that will make the seal tighter. You can usually pop the
piston (pull the rubber dust seal off first, carefully!), pull the seal,
clean behind it, then reassemble -- as long as you don't damage anything
pulling it apart. It's not to hard to do, I've done it several times on
my bike and cars. You might want to check on rebuilt calipers though --
they are usually $20-$30 each with a core return -- but might be more
for those. PBR should have rebuild kits with new seals if needed, check
their website for dealers, or call the local Ford dealer ($$$). 

_______________________________________________
AMC-List mailing list
AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list

or go to http://www.amc-list.com