Re: engine vibration 232 engine

[JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Jay,

What you are looking for is here, I think:

http://www.amcyclopedia.org/tiki-read_article.php?articleId=3

I have the paper version of this mod which I can fax
to you also if you give me a fax number.

I have performed this mod on a 199 six but the motor
has not been started since the rebuild, so I don't
know how it will work.  I also put in a high volume
oil pump.

Regards,
Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA

--- Jay <jciampi@xxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Matt, do tyou have any more service bulletins for
> the Americans fropm 
> 1966-69?  I am looking for the one to correct the
> oiling problem for the 
> rocker shafts on the early 232 engines.
> 
> Jay in FL>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
> To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 5:18 PM
> Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine
> 
> 
> > Jay,
> >
> > You can see the service bulletin here: 
> >
>
http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/loose_intake.shtml.
> It's not 
> > an exact copy of it, but what I got my hands on
> wasn't either. I'd love to 
> > have a copy of the original but what I put on my
> site should cover it. One 
> > other thing that I just remembered -- the exhaust
> donut gasket in the 
> > FelPro gasket set was the wrong size for my
> manifolds. I think it was too 
> > small. The donut gasket I ended up with was also
> made by FelPro and sold 
> > as fitting the same applications but worked okay.
> I don't know if that was 
> > just a fluke or if it's still even a problem since
> the last gasket set I 
> > bought was about 5 years ago.
> >
> > There's also another one for 1964-6 sixes about
> carbon build up in the 
> > intake manifold from the heat riser valve not
> working properly causing 
> > stumbling and hesitation. This fix for that is to
> remove the manifolds, 
> > burn the carbon off with a torch, install a new
> heat riser valve, and put 
> > everything back together. I doubt you'll be able
> to find a new heat riser 
> > valve but if it isn't working, you can just cut it
> out and put in a couple 
> > of pipe plugs. I've driven mine in about 10 degree
> weather since having 
> > mine cut out and driveability was okay.
> >
> > Matt
> >
> > At 03:40 PM 11/7/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >>I already replaced the U-Joints when I  replaced
> the tranny mount. I 
> >>already thought about the rear wheel brgs, but
> havenj't done anything with 
> >>them yet. I have brand new tires (last week) and
> it had the vibration 
> >>before I had the tires changed.  I guess the next
> thing to do is remove 
> >>the manifolds, put on a new gasket and i have a
> new exhaust manifold to 
> >>replace the old one(its getting noisy,thin walls,
> I think).
> >>Have you a copy of the service bulletin you could
> email me a copy of?
> >>
> >>Jay
> >>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas"
> <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
> >>To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >>Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 2:41 PM
> >>Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine
> >>
> >>
> >>>Jay,
> >>>
> >>>I just found out that there was a service
> bulletin issued in 1969 about 
> >>>rough idle and/or surging on six cylinders. The
> fix was new intake 
> >>>manifold gaskets and a specific intake torque
> sequence. The bad part 
> >>>about this fix is that you need to separate the
> intake and exhaust 
> >>>manifolds and there's a good chance that one of
> those studs or bolts will 
> >>>break.
> >>>
> >>>The torque sequence starts with the top left bolt
> behind the carburetor 
> >>>and works clockwise outward. After that, it calls
> for tightening the nuts 
> >>>on the intake to exhaust manifold studs (left
> first, then right) between 
> >>>the carburetor and motor and then the outer
> manifold bolts (the ones that 
> >>>are on the bottom) in the same order.
> >>>
> >>>The vibration could be a bunch of things. Once
> you fix the wheel 
> >>>bearings, try over-inflating the tires (add bout
> 10 psi) and see if it 
> >>>changes or goes away. You could also have any of
> the following out of 
> >>>balance or damaged: wheels and tires, drums,
> driveshaft. Also, worn out 
> >>>u-joints or rear wheel bearings can cause
> vibration.
> >>>
> >>>Matt
> >>>
> >>>At 11:35 AM 11/7/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >>>>I finally got around to tightening the intake
> and exhaust manifolds to 
> >>>>25 ft/lbs and it did help the vibration problem
> but not entirely.  I 
> >>>>also have a synchronous vibration while driving
> at about 35 mph. If I 
> >>>>let up on the gas it diminishes slightly . There
> is a  "flex" fan on the 
> >>>>engine, seems to be in good condition and the
> water pump has no play in 
> >>>>the shaft. I would like to find a 5 blade OEM 
> fan as i don't like flex 
> >>>>fans much. The problem with that is it is a
> small fan because of hose 
> >>>>clearance problems. You have an American, so you
> know what I mean. The 
> >>>>35 mph bibration may be a wheel bearing going
> bad. When I got the car 
> >>>>back in April, I was checking things over and
> found the LF wheel was NOT 
> >>>>tightened down properly at the wheel shaft nut.
> I tightened the nut 
> >>>>about a 1/4 turn until I had no play in the
> wheel when held at the top 
> >>>>and bottom.  I have no idea how many miles the
> bearing was loose and 
> >>>>driven that way. I am going to replace the
> bearings on the front wheels 
> >>>>just to be safe.    BTW, I had a simliar  35 mph
> vibration on my 66 AMBO 
> >>>>and I never did find out what caused it. the
> only thing i didn' t 
> >>>>replace on it was the engine mounts. I have
> replaced the tranny mount on 
> >>>>the American.
> >>>>
> >>>>Jay
> >>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas"
> <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
> >>>>To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >>>>Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 8:54 PM
> >>>>Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>Jay,
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Check the intake manifold bolts. My American
> did that and tightening 
> >>>>>the bolts solved the problem.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Matt
> >>>>>
> >>>>>At 06:12 PM 10/31/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >>>>>>Hey Guys, i have a 66 American with the
> 232/2bbl engine. I have set 
> >>>>>>the timing, set the idle speed at 700 rpm in
> neutral/ 550 in drive. 
> >>>>>>The engine has new plugs and points, doesn't
> appear to have any vacuum 
> >>>>>>leaks.  At the 550 rpm speed the engine has a
> rapid vibration which is 
> >>>>>>quite annoying. The vibration mostly stops
> when i speed the engine up 
> >>>>>>above the idle.  I have replaced the tranny
> mount which was dissolved 
> >>>>>>from tranny fluid getting on it before i got
> the car. Could the engine 
> >>>>>>mounts be so old and stiff that they won't
> absorb even the slightest 
> >>>>>>vibration and transmit it to the frame? I had
> a 65 American with a 
> >>>>>>232/2bbl when it was new in 65 and i don;t
> remember it being anything 
> >>>>>>but smooth idling. The engine runs smoothly as
> far a vacuum gauge 
> >>>>>>shows, no fluctuations due to worn valves or
> rings. The engine doesn't 
> >>>>>>smoke and has 120k miles on the odometer.
> Someone did put the oil kit 
> >>>>>>from the side of the block up into the valve
> cover as suggested in a 
> >>>>>>service bulletin. I know that has nothing to
> do with the idle. Just 
> >>>>>>mentioning it as I hadn't seen this done to
> many 232 engines.  I 
> 
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