Re: engine vibration 232 engine

[Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>]

Jay,

There's another article on my site about that. Take a look at 
http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/boltmod.shtml. Just like the 
loose intake one, this isn't a word for word copy but it does describe the 
bolt modification. I do want to point out that the real problem was lack of 
regular oil changes. The passage is plenty big enough to oil the valve 
train but since it's small and not exactly smooth, it's prone to sludging 
up. Also, it's important that the bolt is carefully machined. If you turn 
it down too far, it will not be strong enough and if you don't cut a new 
radius into the shank after you're done, the bolt could break.

I was originally going to have the machine shop that did the work on my 232 
do this (I don't think they were going to charge me anything extra but then 
again, I was already dropping a good chunk of change there) but I forgot to 
drop the bulletin off so my dad ended up doing it on a lathe where he 
works. I think it only took about 15 minutes to do the work.

Matt

At 06:50 PM 12/22/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> Matt, do tyou have any more service bulletins for the Americans fropm 
> 1966-69?  I am looking for the one to correct the oiling problem for the 
> rocker shafts on the early 232 engines.
>
> Jay in FL>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
> To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 5:18 PM
> Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine
>
>
> > Jay,
> >
> > You can see the service bulletin here: 
> > http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/loose_intake.shtml. It's not 
> > an exact copy of it, but what I got my hands on wasn't either. I'd love 
> > to have a copy of the original but what I put on my site should cover it. 
> > One other thing that I just remembered -- the exhaust donut gasket in the 
> > FelPro gasket set was the wrong size for my manifolds. I think it was too 
> > small. The donut gasket I ended up with was also made by FelPro and sold 
> > as fitting the same applications but worked okay. I don't know if that 
> > was just a fluke or if it's still even a problem since the last gasket 
> > set I bought was about 5 years ago.
> >
> > There's also another one for 1964-6 sixes about carbon build up in the 
> > intake manifold from the heat riser valve not working properly causing 
> > stumbling and hesitation. This fix for that is to remove the manifolds, 
> > burn the carbon off with a torch, install a new heat riser valve, and put 
> > everything back together. I doubt you'll be able to find a new heat riser 
> > valve but if it isn't working, you can just cut it out and put in a 
> > couple of pipe plugs. I've driven mine in about 10 degree weather since 
> > having mine cut out and driveability was okay.
> >
> > Matt
> >
> > At 03:40 PM 11/7/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> > > I already replaced the U-Joints when I  replaced the tranny mount. I 
> > > already thought about the rear wheel brgs, but havenj't done anything 
> > > with them yet. I have brand new tires (last week) and it had the 
> > > vibration before I had the tires changed.  I guess the next thing to do 
> > > is remove the manifolds, put on a new gasket and i have a new exhaust 
> > > manifold to replace the old one(its getting noisy,thin walls, I think).
> > > Have you a copy of the service bulletin you could email me a copy of?
> > >
> > > Jay
> > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
> > > To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 2:41 PM
> > > Subject: Re: engine vibration 232 engine
> > >
> > >
> > > > Jay,
> > > >
> > > > I just found out that there was a service bulletin issued in 1969 about 
> > > > rough idle and/or surging on six cylinders. The fix was new intake 
> > > > manifold gaskets and a specific intake torque sequence. The bad part 
> > > > about this fix is that you need to separate the intake and exhaust 
> > > > manifolds and there's a good chance that one of those studs or bolts 
> > > > will break.
> > > >
> > > > The torque sequence starts with the top left bolt behind the carburetor 
> > > > and works clockwise outward. After that, it calls for tightening the 
> > > > nuts on the intake to exhaust manifold studs (left first, then right) 
> > > > between the carburetor and motor and then the outer manifold bolts (the 
> > > > ones that are on the bottom) in the same order.
> > > >
> > > > The vibration could be a bunch of things. Once you fix the wheel 
> > > > bearings, try over-inflating the tires (add bout 10 psi) and see if it 
> > > > changes or goes away. You could also have any of the following out of 
> > > > balance or damaged: wheels and tires, drums, driveshaft. Also, worn out 
> > > > u-joints or rear wheel bearings can cause vibration.
> > > >
> > > > Matt
<snip>


mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1966 Rambler Rebel
1968 Rambler American sedan
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