[BaadAssGremlins] Re: 77 amx rear axle questions/help

["Dan M." <vegadan@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks, Davis.  I'm gonna try to find 1 local first.  If I can't, 
I'll let you know.

But now I have another problem.  When I installed the new (old) 
axle, it took a near super human effort to get the drive shaft in.  
The drive shaft seems like it is a little too long.  I had to rotate 
the front of the rear end upward to get the drive shaft joint to 
mate with the axle yoke joint.  I always thought that you should be 
able to slide the input end of the drive shaft into the 
transmission, swing the drive shaft into position, and then slide it 
back to connect the drive shaft to the axle yoke.  Right now, there 
is no room for the input end to move in or out of the transmission.  
Shouldn't the input shaft be able to move in or out of the 
transmission end a little to make up for slight changes in the 
distance from the transmission to the rear axle as the rear axle 
moves up or down in its travel?  I measured both rear ends, and the 
distance from the axle centerline to the yoke is the same, so I'm 
pretty sure that the new axle is the correct one.  I measured the 
driveshaft from the centerlines of both joints to be 51 1/8".  My 
car is a 77 with the 258/4 speed.  Does anybody know the correct 
length of the drive shaft?  I'm thinking that maybe the driveshaft 
was replaced some time in the past with one that is not the correct 
length.  Am I missing something here? Any help would be really 
appreciated.

Dan

 --- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Davis Martin <martin-
davis@...> wrote:
>
> Dan,
>    I believe I have one. 20 bucks and it's yours.
>    Davis 
> 
> "Dan M." <vegadan@...> wrote:
>           Anybody know where I can get the rear brake hose (with 
the block 
> that splits to each wheel) for a 73 hornet?
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan
> 
> --- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dan M." <vegadan@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks, Doc, good idea. Well, I picked up another rear axle 
today 
> > and am planning to install it over the weekend. I noticed that 
> the 
> > drum diamater on my car is about 10", while the drums on the 
axle 
> > that I bought are only about 9". Other than the obvious that 
> there 
> > will be reduced braking action from the smaller drums, will 
using 
> > these cause any problems with the braking system, such as some 
> type 
> > of imbalance? Since I have never taken a rear axle apart, I'm a 
> > little nervous of switching the brakes, unless it will cause 
> serious 
> > problems. Thanks for any input.
> > 
> > Dan
> > 
> > --- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "amc74hornet" 
> > <AMC74HORNET@> wrote:
> > >
> > > --- In 
> > > BaadAssGremlins@yahoogroups
> > > .com, Davis Martin <martin-
> > > davis@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > A warrenty
> > > > Seriously basically 
> > > the same stuff. make sure 
> > > the axels spin freely and 
> > > no noise. Also make sure 
> > > the brakes are good. 
> > > That's a sign of a good 
> > > possibility of a good rear.
> > > > Davis 
> > > > 
> > > > "Dan M." <vegadan@> 
> > > wrote:
> > > > Thanks, Davis. 
> > > I got a line on another 
> > > complete rear end, so I 
> > > will 
> > > > probably go that route. 
> > > Any tips on what I should 
> > > be looking for to 
> > > > help determine if it is 
> > > any good?
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Dan
> > > > 
> > > > --- In 
> > > BaadAssGremlins@yahoogroups
> > > .com, Davis Martin <martin-
> > > > davis@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Dan,
> > > > > I meant to say C 
> > > clips. they are on the end 
> > > of the axel in the 
> > > > pumpkin. A bad bearing 
> > > on an axel should be 
> > > evident when you jack 
> > > > up the rear of the car 
> > > so the wheels are off the 
> > > ground then try to 
> > > > wiggle the wheel. If you 
> > > feel any slop or play that 
> > > would be the 
> > > > bad side. Not havig done 
> > > this job I would refer to 
> > > the TSM and go 
> > > > from there.
> > > > > Davis 
> > > > > 
> > > > > "Dan M." <vegadan@> 
> > > wrote:
> > > > > Davis,
> > > > > 
> > > > > I have a 1977 TSC and 
> > > in reviewing the procedure 
> > > for servicing the 
> > > > > rear end, there is no 
> > > mention of these E clips 
> > > that you described. 
> > > > > Can you give a better 
> > > description of how these 
> > > fit and how they 
> > > > are 
> > > > > removed?
> > > > > 
> > > > > What kind of noise 
> > > does a bad wheel bearing 
> > > make? Right now, when 
> > > > I 
> > > > > drive the car, the 
> > > noise that I hear sounds 
> > > like a ball bearing 
> > > > > rolling around on a 
> > > metal table. It seems to 
> > > be pretty constant. 
> > > > > When we took the car 
> > > for a test drive, the 
> > > mechanic swerved the 
> > > > car 
> > > > > from side to side and 
> > > it didn't seem to change. 
> > > I'm not sure if 
> > > > > this means that it is 
> > > one of the other rear axle 
> > > bearing or what. 
> > > > > All I know is that if 
> > > the wheel bearings aren't 
> > > too hard to 
> > > > replace, 
> > > > > I may take a shot at 
> > > it and see what happens, 
> > > but if it is any of 
> > > > > the other bearings, I 
> > > won't chance it.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > Dan
> > > > > 
> > > > > Dan
> > > > > --- In 
> > > BaadAssGremlins@yahoogroups
> > > .com, Davis Martin <martin-
> > > > > davis@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > 68-70 AMX and 
> > > Javelin will bolt right in 
> > > as well as any other 
> > > > > small bodied AMC.
> > > (Rambler American,concord, 
> > > Eagle, Spirit etc)
> > > > > > Not sure about the 
> > > pacer though. Jeep I don't 
> > > think will work 
> > > > > either.
> > > > > > Davis 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > "Dan M." <vegadan@> 
> > > wrote:
> > > > > > Thanks for all the 
> > > input. Davis, I would take 
> > > you up on 
> > > > > your offer, 
> > > > > > but I notice from 
> > > your bio that you are on 
> > > the east coast. The 
> > > > > > shipping to the 
> > > midwest is the killer. I'm 
> > > not too familiar with 
> > > > > > interchangeability 
> > > among the amc lineup. I 
> > > know that a Gremlin 
> > > > > > would be a direct 
> > > bolt in. How about a 
> > > Pacer? Javelin? Jeep? If 
> > > > a 
> > > > > > Jeep would work, I'm 
> > > sure I can find one close 
> > > by.
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Thanks Again,
> > > > > > Dan
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > --- In 
> > > BaadAssGremlins@yahoogroups
> > > .com, Davis Martin <martin-
> > > > > > davis@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > There are also E 
> > > clips holding the axels in 
> > > place in the 
> > > > center 
> > > > > > section so you won't 
> > > be able to pull the axle 
> > > the way just 
> > > > > > described. 
> > > > > > > I have a good 
> > > model 15 rear here if 
> > > anyone needs it.
> > > > > > > Davis 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > Dave Kaunist 
> > > <dave@> wrote:
> > > > > > > I haven't done 
> > > this on an AMC but did 
> > > this on a 
> > > > > > Mustang. If the AMC 
> > > is similar its not that 
> > > hard. Remove the 
> > > > rear 
> > > > > > drum, flip it around 
> > > and loosely attach it back 
> > > on the axle, 
> > > > then 
> > > > > > pull on the drum to 
> > > pull the axle out. On the 
> > > Mustang the 
> > > > bearings 
> > > > > > are pressed on so 
> > > you'll have to go to a 
> > > machine shop to get the 
> > > > > new 
> > > > > > ones pressed on but 
> > > I think the cost for the 
> > > bearings and 
> > > > pressing 
> > > > > > them on should be in 
> > > the range of $50-75. You 
> > > may want to 
> > > > replace 
> > > > > > the seals also but 
> > > that is also pretty easy. 
> > > Slide the axles 
> > > > back 
> > > > > > in. 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > This is working 
> > > from memory from about 6-7 
> > > years ago on a 
> > > > > > Mustang. You may 
> > > need to pull the backing 
> > > plate for the brakes 
> > > > off 
> > > > > > but even if you need 
> > > to do that I believe you 
> > > can leave the 
> > > > brake 
> > > > > > shoes, springs, etc 
> > > in place. However, if you 
> > > have it all apart 
> > > > > and 
> > > > > > haven't serviced the 
> > > brakes for awhile it might 
> > > be a good time 
> > > > to 
> > > > > do 
> > > > > > that also. Good luck.
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > Dave
> > > > > > > 72 Gremlin X
> > > > > > > -----Original 
> > > Message-----
> > > > > > > From: 
> > > BaadAssGremlins@yahoogroups
> > > .com 
> > > > > > 
> > > [mailto:BaadAssGremlins@yah
> > > oogroups.com]On Behalf Of 
> > > Dan M.
> > > > > > > Sent: Friday, May 
> > > 11, 2007 7:38 PM
> > > > > > > To: 
> > > BaadAssGremlins@yahoogroups
> > > .com
> > > > > > > Subject: 
> > > [BaadAssGremlins] 77 amx 
> > > rear axle questions/help
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > I have a 77 hornet 
> > > amx with the 258/4 speed. 
> > > I was told that 
> > > > > > the rear 
> > > > > > > axle bearings need 
> > > to be replaced. My 
> > > questions are: 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > 1. Is this 
> > > difficult, or can I do 
> > > this myself (I'm somewhat 
> > > of 
> > > > a 
> > > > > > > novice)? 
> > > > > > > 2. What other rear 
> > > axles (amc or otherwise) 
> > > will either 
> > > > directly 
> > > > > > bolt 
> > > > > > > in or will bolt in 
> > > with minimal modification? 
> > > > > > > 3. Does anybody 
> > > have 1 for sale around the 
> > > Chicago area? 
> > > > > > > 4. My mechanic 
> > > says it will be $850 for 
> > > the parts/labor. I've 
> > > > > > never 
> > > > > > > had this done 
> > > before - is this a 
> > > reasonable price? 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > Thanks, 
> > > > > > > Dan
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > A word of serious advice 
> > > from personal experience 
> > > Dan. Don't throw the old 
> > > rear out. 
> > > "Doc"
> > >
> >
>




 
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