The 22 gallon tank is basically the same as the 16 gallon tank but deeper so you need new longer gas tank straps which are also still available. The bad thing is the straps are not pre-bent and are straight. You have to hold the tank in place with a jack and bend the straps to fit. You will also have to make longer "J" bolts that mount the front of the tank straps to the body. The fuel filler is the same so use that with the original rubber gromet. You will need the proper new fuel tank sender for the deeper tank because of the longer pickup tube needed. I got a NOS one from Kennedy American. The sender lock ring and "O" ring is available new at your local auto parts store. You will need a longer rubber fuel line to reach the steel one on the body and also a longer rubber vent line to reach the roll over valve. With the right tools and parts and no problems it can be done in 1 1/2 to 3 hours complete. I always hated the 16 gallon tank. Also if you have a trailer hitch it will no longer fit due to the deeper tank. I have done this swap on both my 74 Hornet's. "Doc" ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Protect your PC from spy ware with award winning anti spy technology. It's free. http://us.click.yahoo.com/97bhrC/LGxNAA/yQLSAA/YtqqlB/TM --------------------------------------------------------------------~-> Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BaadAssGremlins/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: BaadAssGremlins-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- Begin Message ---what modifications do you have to do to make 22 gallon tank fit hornet?
- From: eddie walker <moparedwalker@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 03:35:32 -0700 (PDT)
AMC74HORNET@xxxxxxxxx wrote:Todd the 6 cyl 1 bbl carbs have a bakealite ( can't spell it) spacer
between the carb and manifold. I think possibly when you fuel the car up
you stir up 30+ years of dirt and that is why the car stops as it
probably clogs the sock at the fuel pickup. Once every thing settles in
a half hour it runs again. As was suggested if you don't want to drop
the tank blow compressed air into the tank blowing the sock off and add
2 in line fuel filters like Eddie suggested, one before the fuel pump
and one between the fuel pump and carb. This is an old mechanics trick I
learned over 30 years ago and use it on all of my cars. Personally I
would consider dropping the tank and haeing a radiator shop boil it out
and adding a sealer. Luckily for me the Concord/Eagle 22 gallon tank is
still available new and with a minor fuel line and vent mod and with the
new longer straps is a bolt in replacement for the Hornet's 16 gallon
tank. I have new tanks in both Hornet's.
"Doc"
To: BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
From: Todd Tomason <jayscore@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Mon, 29 May 2006 11:36:58 -0500
Subject: Re: [BaadAssGremlins] I'm back
I think we're talking about two different problems Doc. I agree that the
Javelins are a pain to fuel. I have to squat down and hold the nozzle so it
doesn't fall out.
The other problem is how the motor runs after the tank has been filled. For
about the next thirty minutes it acts like it has vapor lock. I've replaced
all of the obvious stuff (fuel filter, fuel pump, etc.). One thing I haven't
checked is to see if the sock in the tank is clogged up.
As I write this I had one other idea. We had problems with my son's Matador
having heat soak. We ended up putting a spacer between the intake and the
carb and that helped a lot. That's probably something easier to try before I
drop the tank.
Todd
On Monday 29 May 2006 11:14, AMC74HORNET@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Todd every Javelin I have tried to put fuel in has given me a problem
> for over 20 years. It is the 60's--70's design of the filler neck and
> tank position and the new 90's--2000 gas pump nozzles that cause the
> problem. The sock has nothing to do with it.
> "Doc"
>
--- End Message ---