I like the looks of that under package tray gauge pod. Just so happened that I had one here that a friend gave my son before he moved to Florida a few years ago. My son let me have it since he got a second Javelin and cant use it. It appears that I will have to fid some small gauges, like under 2 inches to for it to be able to use 4 gauges. "Doc"
--- Begin Message ---
- From: Davis Martin <martin-davis@xxxx>
- Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 08:31:22 -0700 (PDT)
Doc, The gauges I got are summit brand 2 5/8" water and oil. I took a piece of flat aluminum and screwed it inplace where the vents were. Then I drilled holes for the gauge studs and the suply lines and mounted them sticking out. Doesn't look the greatest but it was all I could come up with for the moment. I plan on using a gauge pod under the package tray in the future. I know where there is one in a pacer just gotta get it out one of these days. Davis What size (the hole size) gauges are you useing. I have yet to check what size I will need for the under package tray gauge pod. When I bought the Autometer tac from Summit they included a complete Autometer gauge catalog. I haven't had the time to really look at it or the gauge pod to see waht I might use. That is at the bottem of the list of things to be done right now. Later I got to go finish paying bills. "Doc" Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT --------------------------------- Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BaadAssGremlins/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: BaadAssGremlins-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. > ATTACHMENT part 2 message/rfc822 To: BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Davis Martin Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 05:30:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [BaadAssGremlins] One Step Foward & Two Steps Back Doc, Things are atleast moving along. Look back at how far you have come. it was only months ago that you didn't even have the hornet to fix up. I think it was good therapy for you for the winter. Thanks for the offer on the dash part but I ended up using the one that was in the car. It has a broken tab where the top right screw it so I installed the gauges where the top vent opening is. I have a nice one to use if I ever change the location. Like I said beore Shite happens look at what happened to me yesterday. I came so far actually got it running and it took me a giant step back. All I can do is save my money and shrug my shoulders. Hope your haveing a good morning Davis AMC74HORNET@xxxx wrote: I know but it is fustrating and is putting my scheduel behind. I was hopeing to get all the dash parts in by mid month. Now I have an extra weeks worth of work to do besides starting a week late so now I am 2 weeks behind. The main probllem is now with paint cureing once everything is painted. Enamel is a slow cureig paint. The smaller parts I bake in a dehydrator and even enamel is cured in 2-3 days tops. While the dash's paint cures I have a lot of small interior plastic parts to repair and dye black but I want to see some progress on the car itself and also need the storage space the dash and all the related parts are takeing up in the house. I just spent 2 1/2 hours working on the dash and will continue the rest of the day. By tonight all the repairs and additional re-enforcement will be done and then it is off to the primeing and painting. Oh well brake over time to go back to work. I ran all my errands and got my shot at the Dr's yesterday so I have the whole day today to whip the dash frame into shape. I hope the wife goes out with her girlfriend this afternoon so I can work in peace while I watch the Bush Race from Texas.Good luck with the gauge panel. If you want I have a butchered center gauge panel that was chopped up to install an aftermarket radio you can have. Other than the chopped out part for the radio the only other problem is the very top above the A/C duct is broken off but I have the piece. This plastic is glueable with the Plastic Welding System epoxy. "Doc" > ATTACHMENT part 2 message/rfc822 To: BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Davis Martin Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 04:27:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: [BaadAssGremlins] One Step Foward & Two Steps Back Doc, I have two words for ya. SHITE HAPPENS :o)> I went to install my water temp and oil gauges lastnight and found out I bought the wrong size bezel panel. Now this mornin I have to figure another way to mount them. I didn't want to hack up any of the dash but now I am gonna see what I can do with the extra radio dash center piece I have. Always good to have extra parts. Davis AMC74HORNET@xxxx wrote: My test with the plastic model stripper on the top of the dash to bring the color back was a dismal failure brough on by stupidity on my part by not following one of my own rules. Test a product in a spot not seen. I couldn't do it so I tested it and I had a half a dozen small cracks develop in the test area. I knew that sometimes on old plastic models this stripper has a tendency to make old plastic that is britle crack but figured that since the dash is 2-3 times the thickness of a model body I was ok. No such luck!!!! The cracks were frustrateing but a blessing in disguise. They developed in an area where on the underneath of the dash I had glued the 3/4X34 plexiglass bar to remove a bit of warpage. I got most of it out but it was under tension. I planned on installing the frame in the car and with the hot weaher comeing not tightenin g all the top dash screws tight all at once. I figured at the end of each hot day after sitting in the sun and the dash hot I would tighten the screws a little utill they were tight and the dash would not be under tension where I glued the plexiglass. With the cracking from the stripper experiment most of the tension is now gone on that side and the dash is straighter now. Now I am in the process of repairing the cracks with my Plastic Welding System Glue backed up with model sheet plastic on the underside of the dash. I will simulate the vinal grain in the crack repair on the visible top side of the dash with my electric tool engraver. I an also going to experiment with some JB Weld epoxy on plastic that I bought yesterday. On an old trashed plastic part interior part. Someone said they used it for such a repair on the AMX files. A mid April installation of the dash has now been pushed to the end of the month due to this !@#$%^&* s tupid setback for which I have no one to blame but myself. "Doc" --0-542781088-1081092682=:68931 Content-Type: text/html; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit <html><body> <DIV><STRONG>Doc,</STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG> The gauges I got are summit brand 2 5/8" water and oil. I took a piece of flat aluminum and screwed it inplace where the vents were. Then I drilled holes for the gauge studs and the suply lines and mounted them sticking out. Doesn't look the greatest but it was all I could come up with for the moment. I plan on using a gauge pod under the package tray in the future. I know where there is one in a pacer just gotta get it out one of these days. </STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG> Davis <BR></STRONG><BR></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"><TT> What size (the hole size) gauges are you<BR>useing. I have yet to check what size I will need for the under package<BR>tray gauge pod. When I bought the Autometer tac from Summit they<BR>included a complete Autometer gauge catalog. I haven't had the time to<BR>really look at it or the gauge pod to see waht I might use. That is at<BR>the bottem of the list of things to be done right now. Later I got to go<BR>finish paying bills.<BR>"Doc" <BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR></TT><BR><BR><BR>> ATTACHMENT part 2 message/rfc822 <BR>To: BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<BR>From: Davis Martin <MARTIN-DAVIS@xxxx><BR>Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 05:30:11 -0700 (PDT)<BR>Subject: Re: [BaadAssGremlins] One Step Foward & Two Steps Back<BR><BR> <DIV><STRONG>Doc,</STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG> Things are atleast moving along. Look back at how far you have come. it was only months ago that you didn't even have the hornet to fix up. I think it was good therapy for you for the winter. Thanks for the offer on the dash part but I ended up using the one that was in the car. It has a broken tab where the top right screw it so I installed the gauges where the top vent opening is. I have a nice one to use if I ever change the location. </STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG> Like I said beore Shite happens look at what happened to me yesterday. I came so far actually got it running and it took me a giant step back. </STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG> All I can do is save my money and shrug my shoulders.</STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG> Hope your haveing a good morning </STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG> Davis </STRONG><BR><BR><B><I>AMC74HORNET@xxxx</I></B> wrote:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"><TT>I know but it is fustrating and is putting my scheduel behind. I was<BR>hopeing to get all the dash parts in by mid month. Now I have an extra<BR>weeks worth of work to do besides starting a week late so now I am 2<BR>weeks behind. The main probllem is now with paint cureing once<BR>everything is painted. Enamel is a slow cureig paint. The smaller parts<BR>I bake in a dehydrator and even enamel is cured in 2-3 days tops. While<BR>the dash's paint cures I have a lot of small interior plastic parts to<BR>repair and dye black but I want to see some progress on the car itself<BR>and also need the storage space the dash and all the related parts are<BR>takeing up in the house. I just spent 2 1/2 hours working on the dash<BR>and will continue the rest of the day. By tonight all the repairs and<BR>additional re-enforcement will be done and then it is off to the<BR>primeing and painting. Oh well brake over time to go back to work. I ran<BR>all my errands and got my shot at the Dr's yesterday so I have the whole<BR>day today to whip the dash frame into shape. I hope the wife goes out<BR>with her girlfriend this afternoon so I can work in peace while I watch<BR>the Bush Race from Texas.Good luck with the gauge panel. If you want I<BR>have a butchered center gauge panel that was chopped up to install an<BR>aftermarket radio you can have. Other than the chopped out part for the<BR>radio the only other problem is the very top above the A/C duct is<BR>broken off but I have the piece. This plastic is glueable with the<BR>Plastic Welding System epoxy.<BR>"Doc"<BR><BR></TT><BR><BR>> ATTACHMENT part 2 message/rfc822 <BR>To: BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<BR>From: Davis Martin <MARTIN-DAVIS@xxxx><BR>Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 04:27:20 -0800 (PST)<BR>Subject: Re: [BaadAssGremlins] One Step Foward & Two Steps Back<BR><BR> <DIV><STRONG>Doc,</STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG> I have two words for ya. SHITE HAPPENS :o)> I went to install my water temp and oil gauges lastnight and found out I bought the wrong size bezel panel. Now this mornin I have to figure another way to mount them. I didn't want to hack up any of the dash but now I am gonna see what I can do with the extra radio dash center piece I have. Always good to have extra parts. </STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG> Davis </STRONG><BR><BR><B><I>AMC74HORNET@xxxx</I></B> wrote:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"><TT>My test with the plastic model stripper on the top of the dash to bring<BR>the color back was a dismal failure brough on by stupidity on my part by<BR>not following one of my own rules. Test a product in a spot not seen. I<BR>couldn't do it so I tested it and I had a half a dozen small cracks<BR>develop in the test area. I knew that sometimes on old plastic models<BR>this stripper has a tendency to make old plastic that is britle crack<BR>but figured that since the dash is 2-3 times the thickness of a model<BR>body I was ok. No such luck!!!! The cracks were frustrateing but a<BR>blessing in disguise. They developed in an area where on the underneath<BR>of the dash I had glued the 3/4X34 plexiglass bar to remove a bit of<BR>warpage. I got most of it out but it was under tension. I planned on<BR>installing the frame in the car and with the hot weaher comeing not<BR>tightenin g all the top dash screws tight all at once. I figured at the<BR>end of each hot day after sitting in the sun and the dash hot I would<BR>tighten the screws a little utill they were tight and the dash would not<BR>be under tension where I glued the plexiglass. With the cracking from<BR>the stripper experiment most of the tension is now gone on that side<BR>and the dash is straighter now. Now I am in the process of repairing the<BR>cracks with my Plastic Welding System Glue backed up with model sheet<BR>plastic on the underside of the dash. I will simulate the vinal grain in<BR>the crack repair on the visible top side of the dash with my electric<BR>tool engraver. I an also going to experiment with some JB Weld epoxy on<BR>plastic that I bought yesterday. On an old trashed plastic part interior<BR>part. Someone said they used it for such a repair on the AMX files. A<BR>mid April installation of the dash has now been pushed to the end of the<BR>month due to this !@#$%^&* s tupid setback for which I have no one to<BR>blame but myself. <BR>"Doc" <BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR></TT><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></BLOCKQUOTE> <br> </body></html> --0-542781088-1081092682=:68931--
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