Re: [AMC-list] Clutch and Bushings '71 Javelin

[Ken Ames <ameskg@xxxxxxxxx>]

"due to the low water table"

I suspect he means _high_ water table. : )

Ken

Quoting Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>:

> I generally do what Armand does -- EXCEPT for the strut rod. That's the LAST
> place I use urethane! On the 64-69 American and 63-66 Classic you will feel
> every pothole through the floor, at least I did on my 63 (those bodies are
> all built the same except for the rear suspension). Didn't like it one bit! I
> was in Gulfport MS for a while and the roads near the coast aren't the best
> due to the low water table.
> 
> When using two piece strut bushings with the original non-adjustable strut
> rods you have no choice but to use a urethane bushing. It has to be cut down
> to fit (the "cone" area cut off, cut a rubber one down and it's not strong
> enough, deforem too easy and the strut pushes through), so that contributes
> to harshness since the flat "donut" won't compress/deform as much as the
> cones would, so later cars might not be as bad, just hte non-adjustable strut
> models.
> 
> Poly on both sides of the strut bushing mount will limit travel of the
> suspension and reduce reaction time -- it won't change height very fast. Not
> a problem for a road race car, probably helps! On a street car is a different
> story. You need the travel and reaction time. My solution was to use the cut
> down plot on front and a rubber half on back. That reduces the reaction time
> and travel too, but about half as much as poly on both sides -- so get one of
> each bushing and in stall "half-n-half" for an improvement in ride. Still get
> that hard thump through the floor on potholes though.
> 
> The main reason for poly strut bushings is that they don't "give" as much
> when the car is pushed forward, keeping caster and camber about the same all
> the time. The rubber will deform a little on take off then settle back more
> or less to shape, but that momentary change affects caster and camber for a
> few seconds as the car accelerates -- until you let off the gas and give the
> bushing time to settle. Unless you race in reverse you don't need that
> control back there, and the improved flexibility using a rubber half on the
> back will help keep the tire on the road.
> 
> My "final solution" was to make and adjustable strut rod for my 63. Just a
> little cut-n-weld on the end was all it took! Any good welder can weld a 6"
> hardened stud (NOT all-trhead, go to a fastener supply and get a 6" stud!) on
> the end. I forget the size -- I think it's either 5/8" or 3/4". Get a bushing
> first and measure the sleeve, or take it with you and tell the guy you want
> two that fit, and two jam nuts. Hmm... 6" may not be enough. You need room
> for the two jam nuts at the front to lock the front position in place, then
> the bushing and enough room in back for the washers and nut plus at least 1"
> of adjustment front and back.7"or 8" stud might be more like it. Just cut the
> strut rod so that the stud makes the new on the same length, though a little
> longer (maybe 1/2") won't hurt. Works well -- I've been running this setup
> since 2002, and it survived the car getting totaled in 2003 (I inspected and
> used the recently rebuilt suspension in the new car -- wasn't hit on the
>   front, rear left quarter).
> 
> ---------------
> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 23:17:05 +0000
> From:wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> As my previous post shows.
> We all do prefer to use poly in different ways.
>     I honestly have the strut bushings on shelf for the American, but the
> moogs were fairly new so I just left then in place.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Armand Eshleman"<aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:20:20
> 
> I think htere are several AMC vendors that have bushings for the 71 Javelin,
> the parts are the same for the "second generation" suspension up front from
> 70 to 74 and the same on many if not all 70 and newer full size AMCs except
> Pacer.
> One thing you may want to consider is using a combination or original style
> rubber bushings and urethane bushings.
> If you are going the original rubber path, look for MOOG suspension
> bushings, available at NAPA stores I believe.
> There are several urethane vendors out there that have kits for full size
> AMC cars.
> 
> Just my opinion, I like a mixture of rubber and urethane, control arms are
> rubber bushed. Strut bar is urethane, (use caution when raising car, lift it
> by the lower control arm and don't allow the suspension to go to full droop
> for long strut bar life). Stabilizer bar and links are urethane. Remember
> that's my preference only, I'm sure there will be disagreement about that,
> but it has worked just fine fo rme for over four years now.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://www.amc-mag.com
> (free download available!)
> 
> 
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