Re: [AMC-list] Clutch and Bushings '71 Javelin

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

I generally do what Armand does -- EXCEPT for the strut rod. That's the LAST place I use urethane! On the 64-69 American and 63-66 Classic you will feel every pothole through the floor, at least I did on my 63 (those bodies are all built the same except for the rear suspension). Didn't like it one bit! I was in Gulfport MS for a while and the roads near the coast aren't the best due to the low water table.

When using two piece strut bushings with the original non-adjustable strut rods you have no choice but to use a urethane bushing. It has to be cut down to fit (the "cone" area cut off, cut a rubber one down and it's not strong enough, deforem too easy and the strut pushes through), so that contributes to harshness since the flat "donut" won't compress/deform as much as the cones would, so later cars might not be as bad, just hte non-adjustable strut models.

Poly on both sides of the strut bushing mount will limit travel of the suspension and reduce reaction time -- it won't change height very fast. Not a problem for a road race car, probably helps! On a street car is a different story. You need the travel and reaction time. My solution was to use the cut down plot on front and a rubber half on back. That reduces the reaction time and travel too, but about half as much as poly on both sides -- so get one of each bushing and in stall "half-n-half" for an improvement in ride. Still get that hard thump through the floor on potholes though.

The main reason for poly strut bushings is that they don't "give" as much when the car is pushed forward, keeping caster and camber about the same all the time. The rubber will deform a little on take off then settle back more or less to shape, but that momentary change affects caster and camber for a few seconds as the car accelerates -- until you let off the gas and give the bushing time to settle. Unless you race in reverse you don't need that control back there, and the improved flexibility using a rubber half on the back will help keep the tire on the road.

My "final solution" was to make and adjustable strut rod for my 63. Just a little cut-n-weld on the end was all it took! Any good welder can weld a 6" hardened stud (NOT all-trhead, go to a fastener supply and get a 6" stud!) on the end. I forget the size -- I think it's either 5/8" or 3/4". Get a bushing first and measure the sleeve, or take it with you and tell the guy you want two that fit, and two jam nuts. Hmm... 6" may not be enough. You need room for the two jam nuts at the front to lock the front position in place, then the bushing and enough room in back for the washers and nut plus at least 1" of adjustment front and back.7"or 8" stud might be more like it. Just cut the strut rod so that the stud makes the new on the same length, though a little longer (maybe 1/2") won't hurt. Works well -- I've been running this setup since 2002, and it survived the car getting totaled in 2003 (I inspected and used the recently rebuilt suspension in the new car -- wasn't hit on the
 front, rear left quarter).

---------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 23:17:05 +0000
From:wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx

As my previous post shows.
We all do prefer to use poly in different ways.
   I honestly have the strut bushings on shelf for the American, but the moogs were fairly new so I just left then in place.


-----Original Message-----
From: "Armand Eshleman"<aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:20:20

I think htere are several AMC vendors that have bushings for the 71 Javelin,
the parts are the same for the "second generation" suspension up front from
70 to 74 and the same on many if not all 70 and newer full size AMCs except
Pacer.
One thing you may want to consider is using a combination or original style
rubber bushings and urethane bushings.
If you are going the original rubber path, look for MOOG suspension
bushings, available at NAPA stores I believe.
There are several urethane vendors out there that have kits for full size
AMC cars.

Just my opinion, I like a mixture of rubber and urethane, control arms are
rubber bushed. Strut bar is urethane, (use caution when raising car, lift it
by the lower control arm and don't allow the suspension to go to full droop
for long strut bar life). Stabilizer bar and links are urethane. Remember
that's my preference only, I'm sure there will be disagreement about that,
but it has worked just fine fo rme for over four years now.


--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://www.amc-mag.com
(free download available!)


_______________________________________________
AMC-list mailing list
AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com