[AMC-list] Engine assembly

["Bruce Hevner" <scramblr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

>I assemble the pistons , rings and cylinders dry ~ I use a paper towl and

>window cleaner in the bores until  a clean dry white paper towel comes out

>spotless ~ no grey stuff indicating SWARF from honing or boring (I don't

>often hone or glaze break either) .

I agree with most of what's said here. After the block comes out of the hot
tank I take a cylinder brush mounted in a hand drill with soapy water and
wash the hell out of each cylinder. Once the block is dry and in the stand I
take a rag and some penetrating oil and wipe out each cylinder. This keeps
the cylinders from "flash" rusting as they are prone to do, especially if
the engine won't be started right away. If the engine will be stored (say
it's a stock engine for inventory) I'll use light machine oil (like 3-1) oil
and give the bores a LIGHT coat removing any excess. 3-1 oil has no
anti-wear additives which might inhibit ring break in.

If the pistons are press fit, while they are warm from heating (if full
float I warm them gently with a torch, should NOT be too hot to touch) I put
ONE DROP of assembly lube on each skirt and rub it in with my fingers being
careful NOT to get any in the grooves. After the pistons cool off I take a
rag and remove the excess from the skirt making sure there is NO excess
left. This prevents skirt "scuffing" which can occur if they are installed
dry. Warming the pistons encourages the lube to "soak in" to the skirts.
Once the rings are on I put ONE DROP of 3-1 oil in each ring end gap and
rotate the rings working the oil into the lands. This helps prevent ring
"micro welding" between the sides of the rings and the lands. There is some
discussion as to if 3-1 oil is enough lube and some are spraying the SIDES
of the rings with dry moly.

Once the pistons are installed and the engine has been rotated I take a dry
rag and wipe the cylinder making sure no excess oil is left.

 

>I use thick oil on the crank journals and on the new bearing shells , cam

>lube on the cam lobes and lifter bases to avoid scuffing .

OK I disagree here. MANY manufactures have spent a great deal of money
developing "break in lube/grease". That is for a reason! No matter HOW thick
the oil it will drain off!! I have been using Joe Gibbs assembly grease and
oil http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/products/enginebuilder.html. It is MADE
for this purpose!! It's expensive but not NEARLY as expensive as a startup
failure!!!

>Engine all buttoned up , head torqued and valves adjusted ignition timing

>set (about 10* BTDC), run it sans plugs until oil light blinks or oil
begins

>weeping out the rockers ,

 

I disagree here too!! No matter how short a time spinning the engine without
oil pressure is a gamble!! I have a brake bleeding tank I have converted to
a pressure lube tool. I put a fitting into the oil switch port and connect
it to my pre lube tank which is full of break in oil. I pressure up the tank
while I turn the engine by hand a few times to insure all the passages are
full of oil. Put the oil switch/sender in and she's ready to crank!!! Do NOT
allow the engine to "idle" for the first 20-30 minutes. This insures there
is enough oil "slinging" off rotating parts to oil parts that are not
pressure fed.

 

But HEY,,, that's just ME!!!

Bruce Hevner

 

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