Re: [AMC-list] head studs for 195.6 ohv

[tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

I'm not trying to avoid scheduled retorquing. What I'm saying is, I did
every single possible Good Practice on the engine that's in my car now, and
I have water in the oil. Maybe it's simply that my one overheat episode when
the lower hose popped off ruined the head. That's a disturbing thought, but
possible.

If it's a crack triggered by overheat then no fancy bolts or sealers will
help that. But otherwise, if there is some flatness-torque-sealer-whatever
related gasket issue, the studs (plus decent shop work) ought to *help*
*that*. And it's known that critical fasteners should be replaced during
serious overhauls -- especially when those fasteners are in the general
vicinity of a Known Problem Area, and are 50 years old!

That's all I'm saying.

On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 08:47, Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> If you don't use some type of sealant on the head gasket (even though new
> ones say it's not necessary) you will get a good bit of seepage from the
> gasket on these engines,



I will use multiple sealants. On my recent 232 head refresh, I put Right
Stuff along the thin distributor edge of the blue Felpro headgasket. That
area is a chronic mild but annoying oil leak area. It was well outside the
combustion chamber area and I wasn't worried about it affecting that
torquing or sealing. It's worked perfectly. I'll do the same on this new
motor.

In fact I may not even get a "rebuild gasket set". They're all ancient NOS
and all stiff and old-fashioned. Other than the headgasket, and others that
may have critical thickness, the motor will go together with Right Stuff
exclusively. A Best teflon rear main seal. I'm gonna replumb PCV.  It won't
leak when I'm done!


If I could afford a custom copper gasket and O-rings I could then eliminate
another old POS part. No word back from them, I'll bug them, but I assume
it'll be too much money for me.
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