Re: [Amc-list] Trunnions for Tom Jennings

[Wayne E Lamothe <superglider@xxxxxxxx>]

 Just ordered a new trunnion and thrust bearing from Blaser.  OUCH!!! 
The factory manual does not say squat about the trunnions or pulling the
steering knuckle out.  How do I remove the lower spring support (the tube
above the trunnion) so I can get to the nut on top of the steering
knuckle to remove the trunnion?

Wayne


On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 09:28:44 -0500 Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> writes:
> Wayne, it was good to see the photos of the worn trunnions! For those 
> who don't know, that's a "big car" upper trunnion. 
> 
> You can get new replacement trunnions from most of the AMC vendors 
> who deal with the older cars (Blaser, Galvins, etc) and Kanter. Just 
> Suspension in NJ used to carry them, but they don;t list them 
> on-line any more. The big car upper trunnion isn't expensive, it's 
> the American upper trunnion that's a bit pricey (early and late!). 
> 
> The last set I put on just came with a big o-ring. As Tom said, it's 
> the arms that are hard to find. If your caps didn't fit tight in the 
> arm I don't think it could have worn the stud on the trunnion like 
> that. If you have a welder put a tack weld on the joint where the 
> cap and arm meet. Not a lot, just enough to keep it from turning, 
> but can be broken with a chisel/grinder or just a big wrench if you 
> ever need to remove it again (probably not!). It's also a nice 
> visual cue if the trunnion does start to seize -- easy to see the 
> broke tack weld. Of course a small tack could break without a stuck 
> trunnion, but not too likely. But at least you'll know it needs 
> closer inspection if the tack is broken. 
> 
> I always assemble the metal-to-metal trunnions with anti-seize on 
> the threads then  grease with a good moly grease. Shouldn't seize 
> that way! Then as Tom says, grease every three years/30K miles and 
> the things should last at least your lifetime. 
> 

 
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