Re: [Amc-list] And he was a goober-tronic! (pushrod wasn't quite pushing
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Re: [Amc-list] And he was a goober-tronic! (pushrod wasn't quite pushing)



He should be able to see if it is a clearance problem or gunky gas by taking the valve out.
There will be a nice gunky, gummy coating if it is contaminated fuel or oil.
if it is clearance he will see some signs of scoring and or discoloration, plus possible metakl deposits.
especially if it has had bronze guides put in it at some time.
  The fuel deposits will be easy to clena off with solvents.
If the guide is too tight, I'd take it back to the shop that did the head work and ask them to make it right.
   For a one time type job, almost any of the cheap spring compressors sold at the chain stores for autoparts will do.
The 196 has some really weak springs and the should be easy to work with.

  For quick teardown, I take a large 1/2 drive socket, place it on the valve keeper, wrap it hard with a 2lb hammer, the keepers will pop out if done correctly.  NOTE: I am not responsible for injury caused by you missing the socket, hitting it off angle etc; this may and most likely will cause loss of patches of skin over the knuckles. I advise keep ing bandages on hand while doing this.  I always end up bleeding, yet continue to stubbornly do this as it is a fast way to tear down a head...  :)   NOTE: 1.2. Also not responsible for damages and time spent looking under the work bench for that lost D**ned keeper!

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Junk dissolving from the gas tank can cause sticky valves, but I would think 
> more than one would be a bit sticky. Could be that the shop got that one a 
> little tight. Since it was just rebuilt I'd call the shop and ask them about it. 
> They may be willing to pull the valve and check the guide, clean it up, and put 
> it back together for nothing. I would if it were my shop. They would be out less 
> than half an hour, but don't expect them to do it right away. Maybe you could 
> drop it off in the morning and pick it up in the afternoon though. 
> 
> You really need to pull the valve out to clean it good. Main thing you need is a 
> spring compressor... heck, that's the only special tool. Once you get it squared 
> away do the engine flush thing to help keep any more from sticking!
> 
> ------------
> Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 21:45:19 -0500
> From: Bruce Griffis <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>
> 
> Well, I could press all the valves down with the palm of my hand, except
> for the first valve - the one with the bent pushrod. Stuck valve. How
> many folks on this email list said stuck valve how many times?
> 
> Anyway - I'm doing the Kroil thing, but may have to take it back to the
> machine shop. I know we did valve jobs in high school, but can't quite
> remember what parts and pieces to rent. So - it's either off to the
> machine shop or some head scratching time, lol.
> 
> -- 
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
> 
> _______________________________________________
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