[Amc-list] Muskeeter rings and procedures

["Bruce Hevner" <scramblr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Uh, antifriction lube? Would you use this on a the Coated Skirt piston?>>>

The procedure I described is used on all types pistons.

So, Basically your saying you don't get assembly lube anywhere near the
rings and use 3 in 1 oil in the ring grooves and let the rings pretty much
dry?>>>

That is correct. Just a couple of drops of 3-1 oil and rotate the rings to
make sure it is worked into the groves. No problem if you get a little on
the face of the rings. A few drops on the cylinder walls spread evenly, not
excessively, and wiped with a rag.. The reason for 3-1 oil is it has
essentially no anti-wear additives.

   Call me old and unschooled on this, but I always used plain old engine
oil and pretty much lubed the crap out of the bores and pistons with it. I
take it I was doing it wrong?>>>

I am suggesting a method to help prevent a condition known as "wet
Cylinder". It was suggested to me by a piston ring company engineer many
years ago. At the time I was not having any problems and was told it's a
better way for the rings to get a "bite" into the cylinder wall before they
are exposed to any anti-wear additives that might be in the break in oil. I
HAVE seen guys have the "wet cylinder" problem. A freshly rebuilt motor that
has one or more cylinders pumping oil. Upon disassembly the rings for the
cylinder in question would exhibit little to no contact on the wearing edge.
Like they had never even been in the engine. Modern anti-wear additives can
be SO good as to completely prevent the rings from wearing in to the
cylinder wall. I would actually have to give the cylinder in question a few
strokes with the hone to remove them!! Wash the rings with mineral spirits
and re assemble the engine. Fixed it every time. The most common culprit
seemed to be STP.


    I was trained in auto body work at Vale tech, a pre Wyotech school. I
must admit I never received formal training on engine rebuilds. Just what I
was told and read, some of it probably apparently incorrect. Funny how back
in the day you could work your way up in a dealership, get an ASE master
tech certification, yet never take and actual engine rebuild class!>>>

I learned my trade in the school of hard knocks. I started as a floor sweep
in a custom engine shop in 1966. I watched, and asked a lot of questions, I
learned what processes were successful and which ones failed. Now, 40 years
later I realize many of the things we did back then were wrong or maybe not
being done as properly as they are done today. I go to as many trade shows
as I can and talk with as many folks as I can. I try different procedures on
my own motors. Read, read, read.
 I am an ASE Certified Master Engine Machinist,, 3 time re-certified. In my
opinion the ASE test should be a little harder. I usually end up 85-95%  


   I never had a rebuild fail on me over the years though! No smokers or
other failures. So I must not have screwed up too bad...>>

I am only suggesting a procedure that has worked 100% for me. Hopefully to
give someone the benefit of my rebuilding experience from hundreds of engine
rebuilds over 40 years. I am not casting doubt on your rebuilding abilities,
only trying to help folks without as much experience.

If the theory works,, use it. If WHAT YOUR DOING WORKS,,, change the theory.

But HEY,,, that's just ME!
Bruce Hevner
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